o..myy..god vortech 300 whp
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
thats how i did it but the couplers I used didnt fit over the vortech inlet so I had to disconnect the blower unit and connect it directly to the charge pipe that goes to the IC
and if you think you have a boost leak just tighten the belt a little and see if the boost is higher. Like i said it has to be really tight, alot tighter than you would think it should be
thats how i did it but the couplers I used didnt fit over the vortech inlet so I had to disconnect the blower unit and connect it directly to the charge pipe that goes to the IC
and if you think you have a boost leak just tighten the belt a little and see if the boost is higher. Like i said it has to be really tight, alot tighter than you would think it should be
I had a boost leak that was very hard to find one time. The only indication of it was was that the car would hit 8psi at 4500rpms and hold at that level similar to a turbo for the rest of the power band.
It ended up being that the coupler on the volute of the supercharger was clamped about 3/8-1/2" down the volute. Since the volute tapers a bit, 8psi must have been enough to somehow stretch the coupler or balloon it and relieve boost. It was the most annoying leak I have had and it took about 8 hours to find because we swore that coupler was tight. It just kept pushing back at 8psi though.
I would have someone watch or video tape your boost gauge and see how it corresponds to RPM. If it seems to stall or flatten you may have a boost leak that could be difficult to find.
It ended up being that the coupler on the volute of the supercharger was clamped about 3/8-1/2" down the volute. Since the volute tapers a bit, 8psi must have been enough to somehow stretch the coupler or balloon it and relieve boost. It was the most annoying leak I have had and it took about 8 hours to find because we swore that coupler was tight. It just kept pushing back at 8psi though.
I would have someone watch or video tape your boost gauge and see how it corresponds to RPM. If it seems to stall or flatten you may have a boost leak that could be difficult to find.
I had a leak at the plenum ( Sharif gave me a tip to check the plenum with carb cleaner) after seeing the bubbles, i ordered a new v+ and ordered a new gasket.. Havent been able to redyno since.. Soon enough.. Soon enough..
Originally Posted by stewieisslow
ya same dyno...
how can you tell if belt is slipping? i watched it run and it looks fine
and how can i check for a boost leak?
and i called vortech and they said that all the aux fuel pump needs is a constant 12v charge that the ss box did nothing besides give it that constant 12v when the car was turned on
how can you tell if belt is slipping? i watched it run and it looks fine
and how can i check for a boost leak?
and i called vortech and they said that all the aux fuel pump needs is a constant 12v charge that the ss box did nothing besides give it that constant 12v when the car was turned on
Originally Posted by Blackbird CPV35
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
thats how i did it but the couplers I used didnt fit over the vortech inlet so I had to disconnect the blower unit and connect it directly to the charge pipe that goes to the IC
and if you think you have a boost leak just tighten the belt a little and see if the boost is higher. Like i said it has to be really tight, alot tighter than you would think it should be
thats how i did it but the couplers I used didnt fit over the vortech inlet so I had to disconnect the blower unit and connect it directly to the charge pipe that goes to the IC
and if you think you have a boost leak just tighten the belt a little and see if the boost is higher. Like i said it has to be really tight, alot tighter than you would think it should be
Ive been using this for a couple of years now
Originally Posted by stewieisslow
im averaging about 5.5 pounds of boost
Last edited by iStan; Feb 13, 2008 at 03:47 PM.
Originally Posted by stewieisslow
a/f is near perfect
Why don't you give us a number?
timing is not completely maxed out for safety issues didnt want to blow a rod
will post dyno tonight....and pics of mg gf just for fun...and my tuner swears my boost is fine and the only way to gain more power is upgrading injectors and pulleys
If you're injectors are maxed out man there is nothing more to discuss unless you get more fuel to the car. It won't make any more power without the fuel to support it. Along with the dyno graph do you have the datalogs from the dyno runs also? That would tell us your FPDC, timing, boost levels, etc.
i really dont understand why im maxing out my stock injectors...plenty of people told me i could even run the 3.12 pulley with stock injectors....but after tuning and everything im already maxing out my stock injectors with 3.33
Originally Posted by stewieisslow
i really dont understand why im maxing out my stock injectors...plenty of people told me i could even run the 3.12 pulley with stock injectors....but after tuning and everything im already maxing out my stock injectors with 3.33
if you have the vortech supplied aux fuel pump wired to a 12 v constant power source that may be your problem. this pump and the vortech fmu were designed to operate only under boost conditions. that is why the s/s box needs to be used if you are using the vortech fuel system. it triggers the pump on and off during boost and none boost operation. if you are using the utech i would get a return fuel system, fuel pressure regulator and some 440 injectors. especialy if you plan on upgrading the power level in the future. if you do not want to install the fuel system upgrades i would install the s/s box. that is why when you purchase a vortech tuner kit it does not come with a engine managment system or fuel system.
do you still have the s/s box? if you do that small vacume line comming out of the s/s box is where your vacume/boost source gets hooked up to. that is where the reference comes from to trigger the pump on and off. i know this due to when i installed my out of the box vortech system i installed the s/s box inside the passenger compartment of the z. every time i got into boost i could here the small relay inside the s/s box latch providing power to the aux fuel pump. and the opposite reaction when i got out of boost, the relay would open and you could here it clear as day. do you have a fuel pressure gage in the car? as far as i know the opposite reaction can happen with fuel injectors, if there is to much fuel pressure at the injectors they will not work properly.
Last edited by JET MECH; Feb 14, 2008 at 07:44 AM.
GTM recently got the UTEC to control the vortech fuel pump and was successful with it, but they might have it set up different maybe
https://my350z.com/forum/questionable-posts/335500-gt-motorsports-out-of-the-box-vortech-s-trim-nismo-catback-utec-ems-383whp-5a-t.html
https://my350z.com/forum/questionable-posts/335500-gt-motorsports-out-of-the-box-vortech-s-trim-nismo-catback-utec-ems-383whp-5a-t.html
Originally Posted by JET MECH
do you still have the s/s box? if you do that small vacume line comming out of the s/s box is where your vacume/boost source gets hooked up to. that is where the reference comes from to trigger the pump on and off. i know this due to when i installed my out of the box vortech system i installed the s/s box inside the passenger compartment of the z. every time i got into boost i could here the small relay inside the s/s box latch providing power to the aux fuel pump. and the opposite reaction when i got out of boost, the relay would open and you could here it clear as day. do you have a fuel pressure gage in the car? as far as i know the opposite reaction can happen with fuel injectors, if there is to much fuel pressure at the injectors they will not work properly.



