FI issues...
Originally Posted by Everybodywildou
I'm just worried that I popped my stock block. Cause I figure, why did it start right up originally and now it is having issues?
But like the others said, either disconnect the belt and UTEC and drive it there, or get a tow to the shop.
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (32)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,568
Likes: 1
From: Woodbridge NJ
Originally Posted by JonnyC
I'm sure you didn't break anything, as long as you weren't trying to rev the crap out of it. It could be just the fouled plugs.
But like the others said, either disconnect the belt and UTEC and drive it there, or get a tow to the shop.
But like the others said, either disconnect the belt and UTEC and drive it there, or get a tow to the shop.
I'm curious though - how did you flash the UTEC with the basemap? I assume you hooked it up to your laptop? You should just read the utec manual real quick and jump on your laptop to check out what some of the parameters are set at. If you disconnect the cog belt and stay below 60% throttle (to be on the safe side), there's only one column in the map you have to worry about. Make sure the Injector sizes are setup in the parameters, then give it a shot again.
EDIT: Seriously, if you downloaded the TN map right from TXS's site, then it looks as though it DOESN'T have the injector size settings entered. If this is the case, the UTEC won't make any adjustments to the injector pulse widths (except for whatever is in the 0% column, -1 down to -7 or so). So, at 1000 RPMs, the ECU will be opening the 550 injectors for the same amount of time that they were opening the stock 280 injectors - which would obviously make it WAYYY rich!
If you're not willing to try making these changes yourself, then just get it on a trailer. But if you really want to drive the thing there, then get in there and look at these settings.
EDIT: Seriously, if you downloaded the TN map right from TXS's site, then it looks as though it DOESN'T have the injector size settings entered. If this is the case, the UTEC won't make any adjustments to the injector pulse widths (except for whatever is in the 0% column, -1 down to -7 or so). So, at 1000 RPMs, the ECU will be opening the 550 injectors for the same amount of time that they were opening the stock 280 injectors - which would obviously make it WAYYY rich!
If you're not willing to try making these changes yourself, then just get it on a trailer. But if you really want to drive the thing there, then get in there and look at these settings.
Last edited by JonnyC; Feb 21, 2008 at 02:32 PM.
Wth is up with you guys haha, this is sooooo simple, you're fine! You're basically running too rich! Waaaay to rich! Quit messing with your Utec and just Tow your car to the tuner, after the tune, it will be ok!!!!!! I had the same problem
But if you want to take off your belt, go ahead and try to drive it, i won't even do that, I just tow it, if your budget won't allow you to do it then i dont know.......but this far in, tow fees were nothing to me.
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (32)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,568
Likes: 1
From: Woodbridge NJ
Originally Posted by Cux350z
any update?
Did you try to set the injector scales?
Did you try to set the injector scales?
here is an easy check...Diconnect the harness for the utec, and plug it back in to the ECU, so the UTEC is out of the loop..Start the car, and let me know what it does.You "should" be able to drive over here on 550cc's and no engine anagement hooked up, the stock ECU will pull enough fuel in open loop to run it over here.
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (32)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,568
Likes: 1
From: Woodbridge NJ
Originally Posted by Julian@MRC
here is an easy check...Diconnect the harness for the utec, and plug it back in to the ECU, so the UTEC is out of the loop..Start the car, and let me know what it does.You "should" be able to drive over here on 550cc's and no engine anagement hooked up, the stock ECU will pull enough fuel in open loop to run it over here.
Have you checked the injector scaling numbers as JonnyC mentioned above?? You don't have to change them, but you can at least look at them and see if they have values in them.
wow, you guys re making it way too complicated.
load the base TX intake exhaust map AND params. you cant run in boost, so no reason to run a boost map!
no reason to run speed density bc you cant run boost. use maf control.
set the fuel in the 0% column to -10.
do not hook up your vortech cog belt.
it will drive fine. I drove 600 miles to FL on that map with no problems before I was tuned.
load the base TX intake exhaust map AND params. you cant run in boost, so no reason to run a boost map!
no reason to run speed density bc you cant run boost. use maf control.
set the fuel in the 0% column to -10.
do not hook up your vortech cog belt.
it will drive fine. I drove 600 miles to FL on that map with no problems before I was tuned.
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (32)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,568
Likes: 1
From: Woodbridge NJ
Originally Posted by Quamen
Have you checked the injector scaling numbers as JonnyC mentioned above?? You don't have to change them, but you can at least look at them and see if they have values in them.
Originally Posted by Everybodywildou
I checked those parameters he mentioned and they are indeed off. But like I said I don't really feel comfortable with changing stuff like that so I'm just going to take the Utec to MRC on tuesday and Julian will load a true basemap of sorts.
I'm sure Julian will take care of you and get you up and running decent until you get a good tune.
Originally Posted by Everybodywildou
I checked those parameters he mentioned and they are indeed off. But like I said I don't really feel comfortable with changing stuff like that so I'm just going to take the Utec to MRC on tuesday and Julian will load a true basemap of sorts.
I just really wanted to see if that would have worked, since I'm a total newb when it comes to this stuff. Instead of "I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night", it's "I read the UTEC manual last night" 
Really though, you should try learning some of this stuff yourself at some point, so you don't have to call up the local shop anytime anything goes wrong (and so you can tell when things are going wrong, before catastrophic damage).
Originally Posted by Everybodywildou
I checked those parameters he mentioned and they are indeed off. But like I said I don't really feel comfortable with changing stuff like that so I'm just going to take the Utec to MRC on tuesday and Julian will load a true basemap of sorts.
The reason I say the utec is not the issue, is 550cc injectors should be able to idle the car at least.We have doen it before no issues..
There is another issue at hand...Make sure you put the MAF back in the correct direction also.
Go back and check all your work, prior to jumping th gun that the UTEC map is off..The UTEC map would have fuel trimmed in the 0% load column anyway, so it should run fine off boost. So thats a non isssue.
Originally Posted by Bullitproof
Yo homie! Towing to MRC is your best option. you think you are saving money, but you could hurt your motor worse trying to troubleshoot over the forums.
Originally Posted by Julian@MRC
Sometimes the internet technitians are worse for you than the actual problem...People with a little bit of knowledge are more dangerous than those with no knowledge at all.
I agree, but all we were trying to do is help the OP out so that he forces himself to learn a bit on his own - since most of this stuff isn't rocket science. No doubt the safest way to go is by taking it to an experienced shop like yours.
Originally Posted by JonnyC
Ouch
I agree, but all we were trying to do is help the OP out so that he forces himself to learn a bit on his own - since most of this stuff isn't rocket science. No doubt the safest way to go is by taking it to an experienced shop like yours.
I agree, but all we were trying to do is help the OP out so that he forces himself to learn a bit on his own - since most of this stuff isn't rocket science. No doubt the safest way to go is by taking it to an experienced shop like yours.
So he saved a buck in one area, only to spend double down the road correcting the problem. Im 100% sure it is install related and their work just needs to be gone over and rechecked.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post








