Code 1136
03-02-2008, 08:46 PM
#5
Originally Posted by Kwame@z1
^^^ WHAT? What was the point in posting if all your going to say is "I know how to solve your problem but I can't tell you how."
Why don't you PM the guy and help him out?
Why don't you PM the guy and help him out?
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03-03-2008, 04:43 AM
#8
That's an odd code. The only thing my G FSM states for possible causes in a loose harness or connector (intake valve timing control solenoid circuit is open or shorted) or the intake valve timing solenoid valve needs to be replaced. It's the bank 2 valve (code 1111 is for bank 1) and it looks like it is located between the IPDM (pin 17) and ECM (pin 11) but there is no illustration - just a circuit diagram.
If you have easy access to your UTEC - I would try removing it and just plugging the stock ECU back in, reseting the ECM (disconnect battery if you need to), and just restart the car and see if it comes back. If it doesn't - then maybe it's a wire or connector in the UTEC (ask for replacement from TXS). Remember to put the UTEC back in before driving (disconnect battery 1st).
If it really isn't the UTEC - I'd check the wiring. Did anything get wet or moved? Maybe it is the solenoid...
If you have easy access to your UTEC - I would try removing it and just plugging the stock ECU back in, reseting the ECM (disconnect battery if you need to), and just restart the car and see if it comes back. If it doesn't - then maybe it's a wire or connector in the UTEC (ask for replacement from TXS). Remember to put the UTEC back in before driving (disconnect battery 1st).
If it really isn't the UTEC - I'd check the wiring. Did anything get wet or moved? Maybe it is the solenoid...
Last edited by rcdash; 03-03-2008 at 04:47 AM.
03-03-2008, 04:49 AM
#9
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Bank 2, possible causes
- Harness or connectors (The intake valve timing control solenoid valve circuit is open or shorted.)
- Intake valve timing control solenoid valve
this is the valve that is at the front of each bank right in front of the valve covers. I have seen them go bad before, not a regular thing.
- Harness or connectors (The intake valve timing control solenoid valve circuit is open or shorted.)
- Intake valve timing control solenoid valve
this is the valve that is at the front of each bank right in front of the valve covers. I have seen them go bad before, not a regular thing.
03-03-2008, 05:47 AM
#10
my cog belt broke and stripped the wires on the solenoid. I unplugged it and could clear the code. I jave to check the resistance of the solenoid today to make sure its really bad.
Good thing that the solenoid is only 200$
Good thing that the solenoid is only 200$
Last edited by str8dum1; 03-03-2008 at 06:19 PM.
03-03-2008, 06:09 PM
#12
Hey Jet,
I sent you a PM with some specifics about the error code as I troubleshot mine tonight as well.
EDITED for more info.....
The FSM says that the code is thrown due to "An improper voltage is sent to the ECM through intake valve timing control solenoid valve."
With the harness connected and the key turned to on, i see battery voltage on both the white/blue stripe (bank 1) and the green (bank2).
Both these wires come from the same 12V source, so you expect them to be the same.
Good..
But on the bank1 and bank2 specific wires (the plug into pins 10 and 11 on the ECM), I see 5V on the white/ red stripe (bank 1) and 0V on white/green stripe (bank2). I'm not sure if both wires are supposed to have the same voltage with the key on but the car off. Anyone know if they should be the same voltage?? The way the FSM reads, maybe they are not supposed to be the same voltage.
Anyone know which pins to Also check harness for short to ground and short to power, as suggested by the FSM??
"Intake valve timing control solenoid valve is activated by ON/OFF pulse duty (ratio) signals from the ECM. The intake valve timing control solenoid valve changes the oil amount and direction of flow through intake valve timing control unit or stops oil flow. The longer pulse width advances valve angle. The shorter pulse width retards valve angle. When ON and OFF pulse widths become equal, the solenoid valve
stops oil pressure flow to fix the intake valve angle at the control position."
My solenoid checks out at the spec'd 7.5ohms and my wires showed continuity so i know they are not broken.
Problem points to a burned up pin 10 on the factory ECM, esp if you are supposed to see the same voltage between bank1/ECM and bank2/ECM
I sent you a PM with some specifics about the error code as I troubleshot mine tonight as well.
EDITED for more info.....
The FSM says that the code is thrown due to "An improper voltage is sent to the ECM through intake valve timing control solenoid valve."
With the harness connected and the key turned to on, i see battery voltage on both the white/blue stripe (bank 1) and the green (bank2).
Both these wires come from the same 12V source, so you expect them to be the same.
Good..
But on the bank1 and bank2 specific wires (the plug into pins 10 and 11 on the ECM), I see 5V on the white/ red stripe (bank 1) and 0V on white/green stripe (bank2). I'm not sure if both wires are supposed to have the same voltage with the key on but the car off. Anyone know if they should be the same voltage?? The way the FSM reads, maybe they are not supposed to be the same voltage.
Anyone know which pins to Also check harness for short to ground and short to power, as suggested by the FSM??
"Intake valve timing control solenoid valve is activated by ON/OFF pulse duty (ratio) signals from the ECM. The intake valve timing control solenoid valve changes the oil amount and direction of flow through intake valve timing control unit or stops oil flow. The longer pulse width advances valve angle. The shorter pulse width retards valve angle. When ON and OFF pulse widths become equal, the solenoid valve
stops oil pressure flow to fix the intake valve angle at the control position."
My solenoid checks out at the spec'd 7.5ohms and my wires showed continuity so i know they are not broken.
Problem points to a burned up pin 10 on the factory ECM, esp if you are supposed to see the same voltage between bank1/ECM and bank2/ECM
Last edited by str8dum1; 03-03-2008 at 06:51 PM.
03-04-2008, 10:34 AM
#14
Yes its easy to do as they are both just laying on the floorboard.
The UTEC is brand new from Forged as my other one burned up. But I will try with just the ECU.
I should not see continuity between the white/green and ground, and I don't believe that I did. Nevertheless, I will recheck when I get home
Looks like at best a used ECM is ~250$ and at worst $660 from the dealer and about ~100 to reprogram.
I am going to ask my buddy if i can meter his g35 and see what the voltages are on his lines. I suspect they shoulda both been 5V.
Can anyone on here check? Just unplug the drivers side IVT and check the voltage with the key on of both the wires. One should definitely be battery voltage. The other I am not sure.
Thanks!!
The UTEC is brand new from Forged as my other one burned up. But I will try with just the ECU.
I should not see continuity between the white/green and ground, and I don't believe that I did. Nevertheless, I will recheck when I get home
Looks like at best a used ECM is ~250$ and at worst $660 from the dealer and about ~100 to reprogram.
I am going to ask my buddy if i can meter his g35 and see what the voltages are on his lines. I suspect they shoulda both been 5V.
Can anyone on here check? Just unplug the drivers side IVT and check the voltage with the key on of both the wires. One should definitely be battery voltage. The other I am not sure.
Thanks!!
03-04-2008, 08:42 PM
#15
I think the main ECU might be the problem....
So I did some more testing tonight, only to come out more confused.
So there are 2 wires on each solenoid (bank1 and 2)
With the UTEC installed, I am seeing 5V/12V on the bank1 and 0V/12V on bank2 (side with the error).
With the UTEC installed I can run with bank 1 and 2 unplugged and only get a bank 2 error.
So.., bypassing the UTEC and just running straight to the stock ECM, I see 0V/12V on bank1 and 0V/12V on Bank2.
If I run both solenoids unplugged I see error codes for both solenoids.
The car idles horribly with both solenoid plugged in (regardless of UTEC or just Stock ECM).
Unplug the Bank2 or both solenoids and it idles just fine.
There is obviously a difference with the UTEC plugged in vs not (as its getting 5V on the bank1 line where it doesnt do that with just the stock ECM), however the main problem, bank2 solenoid is still there.
Without knowing how a properly running car is supposed to act, I do not know how to proceed.
I have found used ECMs from salvage cars for like 250$ and its like 100$ or so for the reprogram. But I'd wanna make sure that is actually the problem.
Can it be verified that a ECU out of the same year and tranny will work? There seems to be only one Infiniti part # (27310-AM703) but lots of different #'s on the ECMs (mine is MEC31-901-A1 and I have seen MEC31-900-xx and MEC31-902-xx etc)
So I did some more testing tonight, only to come out more confused.
So there are 2 wires on each solenoid (bank1 and 2)
With the UTEC installed, I am seeing 5V/12V on the bank1 and 0V/12V on bank2 (side with the error).
With the UTEC installed I can run with bank 1 and 2 unplugged and only get a bank 2 error.
So.., bypassing the UTEC and just running straight to the stock ECM, I see 0V/12V on bank1 and 0V/12V on Bank2.
If I run both solenoids unplugged I see error codes for both solenoids.
The car idles horribly with both solenoid plugged in (regardless of UTEC or just Stock ECM).
Unplug the Bank2 or both solenoids and it idles just fine.
There is obviously a difference with the UTEC plugged in vs not (as its getting 5V on the bank1 line where it doesnt do that with just the stock ECM), however the main problem, bank2 solenoid is still there.
Without knowing how a properly running car is supposed to act, I do not know how to proceed.
I have found used ECMs from salvage cars for like 250$ and its like 100$ or so for the reprogram. But I'd wanna make sure that is actually the problem.
Can it be verified that a ECU out of the same year and tranny will work? There seems to be only one Infiniti part # (27310-AM703) but lots of different #'s on the ECMs (mine is MEC31-901-A1 and I have seen MEC31-900-xx and MEC31-902-xx etc)
03-05-2008, 09:23 AM
#17
well considering that my UTEC burned up and i blew the main ECU fuse, its not a far stretch.
With the stock ECU, i still only saw the 1136 (bank2) error code when both solenoids were plugged in. And the car idles horrible. When i unplug the bank2 solenoid, the car idles like stock, but maintains the 1136 code.
I cant figure out why with the UTEC installed I am seeing a line with voltage that doesnt have voltage when the stock ECU is connected. And that is on the bank1 side that wasnt affected.
Without a car with a UTEC to test, its very hard to troubleshoot. My buddy has a stock '03 G35 like mine, so I am going to see if i can swap ECU's and measure voltages.
With the stock ECU, i still only saw the 1136 (bank2) error code when both solenoids were plugged in. And the car idles horrible. When i unplug the bank2 solenoid, the car idles like stock, but maintains the 1136 code.
I cant figure out why with the UTEC installed I am seeing a line with voltage that doesnt have voltage when the stock ECU is connected. And that is on the bank1 side that wasnt affected.
Without a car with a UTEC to test, its very hard to troubleshoot. My buddy has a stock '03 G35 like mine, so I am going to see if i can swap ECU's and measure voltages.
03-05-2008, 09:36 AM
#19
Originally Posted by str8dum1
So there are 2 wires on each solenoid (bank1 and 2)
With the UTEC installed, I am seeing 5V/12V on the bank1 and 0V/12V on bank2 (side with the error).
So.., bypassing the UTEC and just running straight to the stock ECM, I see 0V/12V on bank1 and 0V/12V on Bank2.
With the UTEC installed, I am seeing 5V/12V on the bank1 and 0V/12V on bank2 (side with the error).
So.., bypassing the UTEC and just running straight to the stock ECM, I see 0V/12V on bank1 and 0V/12V on Bank2.
03-05-2008, 10:59 AM
#20
Hi Hal, thanks for the input. Few followups though..
The UTEC is brand new from Forged. And Bank1 with the 5V/12V is not the side that is giving me the error (bank2).
The non 12V sides dont have continuity with ground either (well as far as my $400 fluke MM will detect), so I'm not sure thats how they function.
Even just using the stock ECU where both sides show 0V/12V, I still am getting the error and the car idles horribly. Pull off the bank 2 solenoid connector and it idles fine.
The solenoid checks out at 7.5ohms and doesnt show continuity with ground so it makes me hesitant to think that it has gone bad.
RCdash, I was just going to try the car with a buddies ECU only, not UTEC piggyback', just for the reasons you state.
The UTEC is brand new from Forged. And Bank1 with the 5V/12V is not the side that is giving me the error (bank2).
The non 12V sides dont have continuity with ground either (well as far as my $400 fluke MM will detect), so I'm not sure thats how they function.
Even just using the stock ECU where both sides show 0V/12V, I still am getting the error and the car idles horribly. Pull off the bank 2 solenoid connector and it idles fine.
The solenoid checks out at 7.5ohms and doesnt show continuity with ground so it makes me hesitant to think that it has gone bad.
RCdash, I was just going to try the car with a buddies ECU only, not UTEC piggyback', just for the reasons you state.