I don't think so. Maybe intense can point me in the right direction. From what I can tell, no you can't

 

Looking real good Jeff.If its done in time are you coming to the CPT event.

 

CPT?

I'm hoping to get it done today, I'm pretty much done other then trying to figure out if my charge pipe is a bit too big, I've seen another PL setup and the pipe doesn't sit as far forward as mine, however my pipe is sitting flush with the throttle body so it can't go back any farther =( Also they were able to keep the PS container in the factory location so that also throws a flag. either way the car as it sits now - the utec and oil and loose exhaust hardware and 3 vacuum lines "should" be able to fire up.

I still need to get this Utec problem sorted out.

 

College Park Tuning meet on may the 4th......check the mid-a section over 50 z,s and g,s going and there is usually about 2000 cars that show up.

 

Get a sawzall and "adjust" the pipe

 

If intense finds that the pipe is for sure to long I will hacksaw it if need be.
Another one of those, buying the first run of kits, theres a chance that it isn't 100% right.

hopefully its just something I'm overlooking.

 

Shouldn't be that way. Hopefully its an adjustment issue. If you do hacksaw remember you need a bead rolled in the end otherwise the coupler will blow off under boost.

 

Dave, there's only 4 holes in the DP. 3 are for O2s, and 1 will be Wideband, (other o2 goes into the factory manifold on the passenger side) are you able to weld in another for the EGT? or will I have to take it somewhere?

 

When you say flush with the throttle body, do you mean the charge pipe is pushed as far "into" the coupler as it can go, and is actually hitting the lip on the throttle body?

If not, I'd say just loosen up that TB coupler and push it as far in there as it will go and retighten it.

 

No it's sitting flush with the throttle body, metal to metal.
I just talked with Intense and they said it looks like I'm going to have to notch out the fender where the charge pipe coming off the I/C is. thats why its forward to the point of hitting the PS bottle. Also, it might be pushing the charge pipes over and making the last pipe going to the throttle body hit the rad cap, he did say it was a very close fit, but not THAT close. =)

Now I just need to get that damn utec working.

=(

 

You actually have to unbolt it from the rear housing and clock it so that the oil feed is at the highest point and not at a 45 degree angle. I know it is not the most appealing task right now when you are so close to starting it all up, but when the oil doesn't drain/return from the lowest point of the turbo because it is at an angle it could definitely lead to bigger problems. I don't think you want to start up you car with anything at risk? or do you?

Please check with PL and verify but I can tell you it is not looking good with the turbo setup tilted at a 45 degree angle. The oil input must be on top and the oil drain aka return at the lowest point.

You are making great progress and the pictures are great to see. Good luck.

 

Again, I would if I could, what you're asking cannot be done.
GT35 with the power labs kit does not allow for the housings to point straight down, there is no room for it. Trust me I wish there was since it would be better. Maybe if I had different fittings, or if I ran it the other way, though the frame rail (to the right) then back down, but that would be even worse, as it is right now, it comes out at a 45 then goes from that to an elbow that shoots it straight down. check out the pictures again, and as far as rotating it again, I wouldn't mind its not hard at all, 6 bolts on the cover and 6 on the turbo housing. its pretty simple to do.



It will either hit the up pipe, or the frame rail. if turned.

After talking with Intense, it turns out some cars have to mod the metal where the charge pipe coming off the I/C is. That was my issue with the PS container not fitting, as with the charge pipes being out of wack, although the charge pipe going to the throttle body still seems a bit tight, but doable.



My custom saw I used a hacksaw blade for cutting both the metal for the charge pipe and the plastic tab on the rad. Too hard to fit a whole saw in there. but the blade did the trick.



Still super close =(


O2 sensors harness as with some other wires going else where on the car. I'm not a fan of using heat tape when you could be rerouted.





Yes I know, overkill on the zipties, however, I don't care, they're dirt cheap, are easy to put on and just as easy to cut off.


Now the wire harness doesn't go near the cross over pipe. =)


Car is pretty much ready to go, everything put the upper charge pipes are tight, just need to add oil, and get Utec on the phone about issues loading a map.
Once thats done, it should be ready to fire up.

 

Wow.. It looks sick.. The piping comes over the fan.. Id be scurred the hood would rub..

 

If the hood clears the rad cap, it should clear the piping.

"should"

=)

 

Ok.. It looks higher in the pics.. Bad *** so far jeffie!! BTW what cc inj u going to run?

 

can't wait to see the results on this bro. congrats on the DIY install. you'll have video no doubt?

 

I plan on getting video, most people do random drive bys or full throttle runs. What I'll do is a video inside and outside of the car at idle, then basic driving, then under load.

As far as seeing how fast the sucker will go, there's so many factors outside of the powerlabs kit, its pointless, unless I do another thread with random videos =)

 

are you planning on getting a turbo blanket for it? you might want to. seems like the turbo is farely close to some stuff.

 

I'll monitor it, if it becomes and issue I'll put one on, as of right now I don't plan to.

 

The kit comes with 550cc injectors, I just don't know what kind...