My built block turbonetics setup -
Originally Posted by sam-z
I made 482hp 490tq on dyno dynamics with corrections tuned by mrc
https://my350z.com/forum/shop-builds/359425-ut-oh-mrc-does-it-again-tn-single-480whp.html
As far as the restriction, there are several factors in the TN kit that causes the inability to flow "safe and efficient air" to the motor. The turbo flows great air on a bench test and for flow charts ect ect...However in real world applications on a dyno, the TN kit has shown to heat up air intake temps well above what we like to see when tuning cars on the dyno. The hotter air leads to hotter and more unpredictable cylinder,intake,and fuel temps,EGT's.
These are all factors that may cause detonation, and to remedy this we tend to pull some more timing and add more fuel to keep knock down...Problem is, you pull too much timing or add too much fuel and you can actually cause higher EGT's and detonation or "pre-ignition" as well..
Raising the boost on a TN kit can be tricky on the Z...
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Originally Posted by sam-z
yes my motor is fully built with 8:5:1 comp with aem meth
edit: n/m, I read the thread Julian posted. Great info.
Looks like I will be installing a meth injection system.
Last edited by SpoilsofWar; May 15, 2008 at 08:21 AM.
I would like to say i retract my previous statement on the Kinetix V+.. My cork gasket did blow out... So i tore it off cleaned up the lower portion of the V+ and then.. I put on some Red RTV for high temp(already tried rtv grey and orange).. Spread it about 1/4 of an inch thick towards the inside of the lower plenum and it has been working fine..
I have had the Rtv gasket for a few weeks.. Checked the lower plenum and its looking perfect.. I have taken it to redline more than i can count and it hasnt blown out (crossing fingers).. My idle is back at 950 where it was flashed by UPREV.. Usually about 750-800 because the gasket always leaked.... Will post results again in a few weeks but im happy with it..
I have had the Rtv gasket for a few weeks.. Checked the lower plenum and its looking perfect.. I have taken it to redline more than i can count and it hasnt blown out (crossing fingers).. My idle is back at 950 where it was flashed by UPREV.. Usually about 750-800 because the gasket always leaked.... Will post results again in a few weeks but im happy with it..
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Good info Jay'z. Mine is still holding well at 8psi, so far.
Going back for high boost mapping sometime later in June, after I install a water/meth injection system. Then I will post the dynos.
Going back for high boost mapping sometime later in June, after I install a water/meth injection system. Then I will post the dynos.
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Not really, I was away on TDY at Fort Benning for a while and have only been back a week. Like (I think?) I posted earlier my 8psi map is done, I have the dyno graph but want to wait until the high boost map is done and then post both.
It will be back on the dyno later this month for the high boost, but exactly when depends on when I can get a meth injection system on it.
I also am having a very slow coolant drip from the back of the engine that I haven't nailed down yet, but I am 95% sure it is from the passenger side head where the coolant hard pipe bolts to it. Worst case scenario it is from the head/block mating surface but I highly doubt it as it has been present since first start up and there is no other symptoms of a blown HG. It is just a huge PITA to get at that area to make sure because of the fuel lines, turbo water lines, coolant hoses, etc.
It will be back on the dyno later this month for the high boost, but exactly when depends on when I can get a meth injection system on it.
I also am having a very slow coolant drip from the back of the engine that I haven't nailed down yet, but I am 95% sure it is from the passenger side head where the coolant hard pipe bolts to it. Worst case scenario it is from the head/block mating surface but I highly doubt it as it has been present since first start up and there is no other symptoms of a blown HG. It is just a huge PITA to get at that area to make sure because of the fuel lines, turbo water lines, coolant hoses, etc.
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Sorry to hear about your troubles... One step forward and two steps back, right? Nothing to do but stick with it though.
The leak isn't really bothering me because it is an extremely slow drip, and only when the car is running and hot. I am just careful to keep the coolant topped off and I bleed it about every 3-4 times I drive it. Just sucks cause I am leaking $30/gal Evans. And because while the problem that is at the heart of it is an extremely simple fix, its just a ***** to get back there at it.
Regardless, its not going to keep me off the dyno. It was doing it while I was having it tuned the first time and it didn't stop us from making a ton of pulls over about 3 hours.
The leak isn't really bothering me because it is an extremely slow drip, and only when the car is running and hot. I am just careful to keep the coolant topped off and I bleed it about every 3-4 times I drive it. Just sucks cause I am leaking $30/gal Evans. And because while the problem that is at the heart of it is an extremely simple fix, its just a ***** to get back there at it.
Regardless, its not going to keep me off the dyno. It was doing it while I was having it tuned the first time and it didn't stop us from making a ton of pulls over about 3 hours.
Originally Posted by Julian@MRC
This is what makes TN restirctive guys..






Originally Posted by fairl80z
So, if up-pipe is the problem on TN when you go for more power; why can't you fabricate new larger up-pipe to resolve the problem???
because it isn't just the up pipe. it is the down pipe, the routing of the IC and charge pipe, the turbo etc. The kit is poorly designed.
It is difficult to get rid of the up pipe and down pipe restrictions. You are running these pipes through very cramped spaces and there is only so much room to allow bigger fitment. then, you have to deal with the turbo. The charge pipe routing puts it at very intimate proximity to the turbo. This results in the intake temps to be abnormally high... in some sense negating the FMIC. It gets to the point that running more boost, just means you are pumping increasingly hotter air in your motor.
Compare tauran's engine bay... in the first pic he is running the out of box TN setup. Easy to see how close the charge pipe is to the turbo. The second pic clearly shows, for probably many reasons, the charge pipe being further away from the turbo
Originally Posted by taurran
before:

after:

kthnx

after:

kthnx
in short... you would basically have to reinvent the kit to make it suitable for bigger power. Then what do you have?????? maybe something that would more closely resemble the powerlab kit?
As far as the intake charge debate, with a heat shield or turbo blanket I think it's not so much an issue as others think. I'm dead serious when I state that the intake charge pipe on the Turbonetics kit conducts more heat from the bracket that bolts to the front of the timing cover than it conducts from where it comes in close contact with a properly shielded turbo.
The restrictions are almost all on the HOT side of the turbo piping, and aren't completely related to the size of the piping.
The restrictions are almost all on the HOT side of the turbo piping, and aren't completely related to the size of the piping.


