Sorry OT....
Sure, PM me your cell phone number, I'll send you a text message when I'm attending the Z club meet.

Back to the topic...

 

I do have the GTM reflash but still the idle jumps up and down!! what I'm missing here? (Built HR engine,stock cams,Haltech (Hal base map) and 1000cc hks)

(whats weird is it never does that the first 60s after starting the car when its cold <the post-start enrich is set to 60s> !!)

Its driving me crazy.

 

mine jumps too. just enough to be there and be annoying but i just learned to live with it.

 

yep, haltech, cams, built engine, hks 1000's and mine hunts up and down like 75rpm. It's not a lot but it's enough that you can hear it hunting and it's annoying.

 

I have only 440CC's but with RFS and on 2 EMS's and 3 completely different tunes I always got the 50rpm hunt once everything is warmed up. Have you guys done the idle relearn and throttle body position relearn procedures yet? I actually have not but was told to try it by a Nissan tech.

 

lol, i do that thing religiously. I've even tried a new throttle body.

Hal had mine smooth on dw 800's, haltech and my vortech system with a cjm stage 0.

Now that i switched over to new injectors, cjm stage 3 twin pump and a turbo it's doing it again. he couldn't get it to tune out a few weekends ago either. There were other issues during tuning also but that was one of them. It just got weird on me.

 

I wonder if base pressure has anything to do with it. I have a 52psi base pressure which from what I read may be a bit high?

Also, is it normal if you pinch the line going to the regulator the pressure will rise fairly quickly until you release it? Seems like there must be a vacuum leak inside the regulator if this is the case...I can almost hear air rushing through the tube when I let go.

 

Guys, I would be more than happy to have a ~100rpm hunt,lool.

Mine is more like 500-800rpm, it would jumps up 500-800rpm then fuel will cut (I can see the AFR gauge go to +17AFR) and it will drop to where is the decel rpm cut is set, which is 1500.

 

Another problem I have is the car will run with a 13-14AFR (I had to pull 15% fuel from the map), then will slowly start to drop to ~11AFR then when I let off the gas for a moment it go back to 13-14AFR again!!


I just found out the overflow hose thats coming from the reservoir tank got stuck in the driver side fan. now the fan is not working **** just keep happening and i'm too broke to fix them now

 

that is a little high but not too bad.

and yes, when you pinch the line on the reg the pressure will rise. It's under vacuum when idling so the pressure drops due to the vac. When you squeeze that hose you are taking the vac off so the pressure will rise to your base pressure..

 

if you set idle timing to copy through, the rest is done with AFR tuning. Turn on trace and see what the cells are at each end of the oscillation. Tweak fuel on the higher load cell until the cursor stays out of that cell. Work like that from cell to cell to minimize oscillation. You can work in reverse tweaking fuel from the lower load (higher vacuum) cell also, but adjust one cell at a time, making changes until you reduce oscillation involving that particular cell.

You may want to turn off closed loop until you get this somewhat steady. Otherwise, you'll be fighting that auto-correction - the PID algorithm inherently will induce a small amount of oscillation even if the parameters are dialed in. I use the stock O2 PID values.