I ordered the 3.12 pulley today. If I have to stick these 440's in then I might as well go with more boost.

~Dv8

 

Good news, RC makes plugs/clips that don't require any splicing: http://www.rceng.com/Denso-Clip-Connector-P48C9.aspx
Bad news: 17.25 each oh well.


~Dv8

 

Fixed it for ya

What we were trying to say earlier is that there are no plug and play RC injectors period. But you can order either plug and play injector clips that interface between the RCs and the stock harness, or the clips that require splicing.

 

Old news indeed, my bad.

~Dv8

 

Let me preface by saying that I already had 440 injectors just not installed.

I installed the rc 440's and their direct clips, at the same time I went to the 3.12 pulley. I figured if I was getting more fuel then why not tune on the pulley I would eventually want to buy.

I did this, my tuner tuned it and at 6300RPM its maxs out the 440's. Thirsty ****er right!?

Questions;

Stock redline is 6,500 should we stick to that or can I push upward of 7k on the stock bottomend?

Looks like 550's or an FMU are in my immediate future.

Heres the MUSTANG dyno just shy of 6k.

Thoughts?

~Dv8

 

I don't recommend 7k rpms with the vortech on a non-revup motor.


7k rpms and 3.12 pulley is putting the vortech blower to it's recommended rpm limit, but if you're going to do that, I'd rather do the 2.87 pulley and a 6500-6600 rpm redline and get more torque which the vortech can use more of.

The peak hp will be close to the same anyway. For instance:

400whp and 300 tq @ 7000 rpms and with the 3.12 pulley
vs
400whp and 323 tq @ 6500 rpms with the 2.87 pulley


the fuel requirements are going to be about the same

The engine will make more tq which IMO is easier on the engine than going beyond redline, the engine getting even hotter from the rpms, and still having to deal with 400 whp on top of that. Not to mention the engine and other parts like the stock oil pump arn't quite designed really for 7k rpms all the time anyway

I'd only rev to 7000 rpms either if you're NA or you build an engine to handle it and have good cooling mods

 

Sounds good, i'll stick to 6500rpm limit. Whats up with the 440's not hanging though? shouldnt they be enough for the 3.12?
Also, I know the dyno is 500-600rpms shy of peak and that difference is good for another psi or so but isnt the hp a little low for a 3.12? Is it the mustang dyno that read really low? shouldnt I be around 330WHP? I know dynojets and dynapacks read higher but is it rally that much difference?

A/F ok or do you think mid 12's would gain a load more?

Thanks,

~Dv8

 

mustang dynos do read low, but your numbers are a little bizzare. It looks like you'd hit about 303-305whp at 6600 rpms. Did you ask about what some other stock cars run like stock Z's or other similar cars so you have some base numbers or did you dyno your car initially? What are your mods? what's your peak psi?

something seems a little strange, but it's hard to troubleshoot over the internet especially if it ends up being something like the dyno not being calibrated right. Your power doesn't look like it's tapering off so it doesn't really look like you have a boost leak.

IMO 12 A/F is about as lean as you'd want to go with 91 octane. I think most tuners would shoot more for 11.5 A/F with 91 octane

Everything might be just fine and it might just be the dyno being conservative

 

Thanks for your ongoing input Sentry65, I appriciate it.

The power deffinitley doesnt show signs of tapering off; at 6300 it went 285whp@9psi, the injectors were at 98%. On the graph above you can see that just shy of 6k PSI was at 7.8. 7.8 to 9psi in roughly 400rpm's seems like its boosting well.
My G35 was dynoed on a dynojet completley stock before I started moding, I thought I was going to have it tuned there, but plans changed. Stock was 217whp. This is an 03' G35c 5at.
The mustang dyno is less than a year old and calibrated correctly often. Like you said they are notorious for reading low. I recently dynoed another car on the same dynojet and this mustang and hp readings were between 10-12whp difference in the high 100's low 200's.

My modifications now include 3.12 vortech, 3/4 spacer, dual path exhaust, walbro 255 and the rc440's. Tuning via utec. One thing that hurts is my 19" sterns(heavier). Id consider HFC's but the car already drones now. Probably will get some berks eventually.

Where i'm really surprised is the fuel and how I need bigger than 440's. Stock injectors was maxing out at 5k on the 3.33 pulley and now 440's are maxing above 6,300 with the 3.12.
should I go with 550s or 1:1-1:2 FMU ??

I thought this **** was going to be easier. I did all my research ahead of time too.

Thanks,
~Dv8

 

is your A/F reading coming from an actual gauge or the dyno sniffer at the end of the exhaust? So it's an absolute true dual exhaust that doesn't connect at any point?

How many miles are on your engine? Have you or anyone ever tracked it, over-reved it, or "abused" it?

I'm guessing you don't know what your actual fuel pressure is right?


something just isn't adding up.
Your psi is about right.
The gas you use is just regular 91 octane with 10% ethanol right?

 

I have an o2 bung I welded in before the cat passenger side, where the dynos wideband gets plugged into. Thats the only true way of reading A/F.

The HKS hi power does have a small h pipe crossover after it Y's together.

47k miles, stock and lady owned before I bought it. Ran a 14.3 bone stock 5at.
~Dv8

 

Care to explain why? And share your personal negative RC experience?

Or are you just talking out the butt.

 

Bump on my question.