recommended ems for procharger
#21
the point is that its ridiculous to pay up so much money for a build with a procharger (ie sub 400whp)....
And i didnt jsut suggested the utec, i also suggested osiris. The point was that its uncessesary at this levels to get an standalone. Its more important for him to find a good tuner.
And i didnt jsut suggested the utec, i also suggested osiris. The point was that its uncessesary at this levels to get an standalone. Its more important for him to find a good tuner.
I agree with the tuner part - very important!
Last edited by rcdash; 10-13-2008 at 08:41 AM.
#22
If you are running a Utec and you car doesnt start every time, with the same length of cranking as stock, I am convinced you have either a bad tune or mechanical issues.
The same goes for stalling at a stop light - that is insanity.
Again, I am not trying to suggest that a Haltech isnt a worlds better EMS then the Utec, or that its not worth the money. What I am trying to suggest is that a Haltech is not neccessary for a safe, reliably tuned car that runs well.
-I have never stalled at a red/stop light.
-My car requries no more cranking to start then it did when stock
-My car idles smoothly at ~700rpm
-My A/F's have not changed even though my car was tuned at about 85 deg F and it is now around 40 deg F
How can I not be having any of these issues while some of you did? I dont know - You can call my tuner, Bobby at Performance Race Engineering in Portland, OR, his number is (503) 619-0055.
I will still maintain that the Utec is a suitable EMS for low to medium power levels (say, sub 500rwhp). Maybe some of you that had issues were trying to take it to far, or using injectors too big (I have RC 650's btw). But it will work fine for a guy with a procharger that doesn't plan on going crazy.
The same goes for stalling at a stop light - that is insanity.
Again, I am not trying to suggest that a Haltech isnt a worlds better EMS then the Utec, or that its not worth the money. What I am trying to suggest is that a Haltech is not neccessary for a safe, reliably tuned car that runs well.
-I have never stalled at a red/stop light.
-My car requries no more cranking to start then it did when stock
-My car idles smoothly at ~700rpm
-My A/F's have not changed even though my car was tuned at about 85 deg F and it is now around 40 deg F
How can I not be having any of these issues while some of you did? I dont know - You can call my tuner, Bobby at Performance Race Engineering in Portland, OR, his number is (503) 619-0055.
I will still maintain that the Utec is a suitable EMS for low to medium power levels (say, sub 500rwhp). Maybe some of you that had issues were trying to take it to far, or using injectors too big (I have RC 650's btw). But it will work fine for a guy with a procharger that doesn't plan on going crazy.
#23
i agree, a friends run proefi as standalone n/a(been running it for quite a while), and i also went with proefi because of drivability,and i also recomend a standalong most of the time... but you gotta be realistic(we are still talking sub 400whp and a procharger and the budget of the OP) at some point too to accomodate to each persons needs, i wont say YOU HAVE to do standalone, in this case. Just like sayign he needs 600cc injectors... for sub 400whp with just walboro, 440cc or 550cc(my recomendation) would be enough.
#24
I recommend Osiris......... http://www.uprev.com/dealers.php Ship your car to FP....
Last edited by Jay'Z; 10-13-2008 at 05:00 PM.
#25
I have a walbro 255lph in tank and the 600cc deatschewerks...and my only point was that at only 377.5 rwhp...we were already at 80 or 85% injector on time. Even if it was only 80...by my math, that requires 480cc injectors right? and that's if you run them maxed out...
it's something i've always heard, and don't necessarily understand, but apparantly superchargers require a bit more on the injector side of things???
#26
Nah i might have exagerated a lil as not like you are being recomended 800cc...550cc or 600cc will do fine with out having to add a FRS, if it saves you something go for it(savings are minimal probably anyways), otherwise either one is fine...
Id like to hear the explanation why a supercharger would require a bit more on the injector side of things? i mean, compared to a turbocharger that is...
I bet that chat would worst than: "whats better shell gas or chevron" lol....
A goal is really is to keep low the duty c. for the injectors but being smart to not just overkill it(neither 550 or 600 is the case) .
Your tuner should be able to get things sorted out for you because he is the one that will be doing the tuning ...
where are you going BTW.. i know SP is in IL but not sure what is close to you from IN.
Id like to hear the explanation why a supercharger would require a bit more on the injector side of things? i mean, compared to a turbocharger that is...
I bet that chat would worst than: "whats better shell gas or chevron" lol....
A goal is really is to keep low the duty c. for the injectors but being smart to not just overkill it(neither 550 or 600 is the case) .
Your tuner should be able to get things sorted out for you because he is the one that will be doing the tuning ...
where are you going BTW.. i know SP is in IL but not sure what is close to you from IN.
Last edited by IIQuickSilverII; 10-13-2008 at 11:46 AM.
#27
Because it takes power to turn the supercharger. It's called parasitic power loss. A SC car that makes 400whp will have to move more air and use more fuel than a turbo car making that same power because it will take power to turn the supercharger. I think that's what he meant by a supercharged car needing more injector.
Nah i might have exagerated a lil as not like you are being recomended 800cc...550cc or 600cc will do fine with out having to add a FRS, if it saves you something go for it(savings are minimal probably anyways), otherwise either one is fine...
Id like to hear the explanation why a supercharger would require a bit more on the injector side of things? i mean, compared to a turbocharger that is...
I bet that chat would worst than: "whats better shell gas or chevron" lol....
A goal is really is to keep low the duty c. for the injectors but being smart to not just overkill it(neither 550 or 600 is the case) .
Your tuner should be able to get things sorted out for you because he is the one that will be doing the tuning ...
where are you going BTW.. i know SP is in IL but not sure what is close to you from IN.
Id like to hear the explanation why a supercharger would require a bit more on the injector side of things? i mean, compared to a turbocharger that is...
I bet that chat would worst than: "whats better shell gas or chevron" lol....
A goal is really is to keep low the duty c. for the injectors but being smart to not just overkill it(neither 550 or 600 is the case) .
Your tuner should be able to get things sorted out for you because he is the one that will be doing the tuning ...
where are you going BTW.. i know SP is in IL but not sure what is close to you from IN.
#28
Because it takes power to turn the supercharger. It's called parasitic power loss. A SC car that makes 400whp will have to move more air and use more fuel than a turbo car making that same power because it will take power to turn the supercharger. I think that's what he meant by a supercharged car needing more injector.
+1
it's the additional mechanical loss
that's the cost of having a consistent 1:1 engine/FI relationship via a direct belt instead of indirect heat
#29
i was under the impression 440's and a WALBRO 255 FUEL PUMP would be enough fuel and i am under the impression that tuning is everything with a utec, and i believe for my area i am going to have to go with a utec because the other piggy backs i have no support around here to tune. and i truly just don't think i need a standalone for what i am shooting for here.
#30
I agree
I think 440cc is probably good enough
The UTEC should work fine too. The biggest problem with the UTEC is it's not great at scaling injectors and then the sudden jump it has between the ECU and UTEC running the engine
I think 440cc is probably good enough
The UTEC should work fine too. The biggest problem with the UTEC is it's not great at scaling injectors and then the sudden jump it has between the ECU and UTEC running the engine
#32
see thats what i am worried about the jump from ecu to utec, i don't know what to expect, i hear its like a hickup and i do not want that, but i have heard from many people they don't have that problem so don't know what to expect. i will be calling mrc tomorrow since that is most likely where i will take it
#33
Why not go for a ride with someone in your area who has an FI Z controlled by a Utec? That way you can feel the transition for yourself and see if its something that bothers you or not. Personally I can't really tell, but others can. If you call a shop and ask what you should use, of course they are going to sell you on whatever they make more money on... The question is answered before you ever ask it.
#34
tylerxfire...here was my thinking...
I originally bought a UTEC for my power levels as well. Just do some reading on the site to find out some of the POTENTIAL downfalls of the UTEC. You may or may not run into these. For me, as I read these, I realized that I would NOT be please with my daily driver Z if it were to run like some of these cases had. So...what was my thinking? Well, I can spend 700 bucks for the UTEC...plus 100 bucks or whatever it was for the MAP sensor. So you are in 800 bucks. Now you pay 500 bucks for a good tune. So you are in 1300 dollars.
Scenario 1: it works great...Congrats, you just saved 1700 dollars.
Scenario 2: it has some of stated potential issues. you live with it since you feel married to your 1300 dollar investment...but are never quite happy with the way the car drives.
Scenario 3: it has some of the stated potential issues. you decide to go another route. Now you have to sell the UTEC with the tune for probably 700 if you are lucky. AND now you get to spend what...2300 on Haltech and 700 for ANOTHER tune?
I dunno...for me...the risk outweighed the savings. That's your decision. Good luck!!!
I went to Injected Performance in Lexington, KY. It was a little bit of a drive, but worth it entirely. They are an AWESOME shop to work with. I was an annoying customer, but they never ever complained about my incessant calling, questions, and need for "just one more part". I highly recommend them.
I originally bought a UTEC for my power levels as well. Just do some reading on the site to find out some of the POTENTIAL downfalls of the UTEC. You may or may not run into these. For me, as I read these, I realized that I would NOT be please with my daily driver Z if it were to run like some of these cases had. So...what was my thinking? Well, I can spend 700 bucks for the UTEC...plus 100 bucks or whatever it was for the MAP sensor. So you are in 800 bucks. Now you pay 500 bucks for a good tune. So you are in 1300 dollars.
Scenario 1: it works great...Congrats, you just saved 1700 dollars.
Scenario 2: it has some of stated potential issues. you live with it since you feel married to your 1300 dollar investment...but are never quite happy with the way the car drives.
Scenario 3: it has some of the stated potential issues. you decide to go another route. Now you have to sell the UTEC with the tune for probably 700 if you are lucky. AND now you get to spend what...2300 on Haltech and 700 for ANOTHER tune?
I dunno...for me...the risk outweighed the savings. That's your decision. Good luck!!!
I went to Injected Performance in Lexington, KY. It was a little bit of a drive, but worth it entirely. They are an AWESOME shop to work with. I was an annoying customer, but they never ever complained about my incessant calling, questions, and need for "just one more part". I highly recommend them.
Last edited by SweetDreamZ; 10-13-2008 at 06:40 PM. Reason: respond to IIQuick
#35
If you are running a Utec and you car doesnt start every time, with the same length of cranking as stock, I am convinced you have either a bad tune or mechanical issues.
The same goes for stalling at a stop light - that is insanity.
Again, I am not trying to suggest that a Haltech isnt a worlds better EMS then the Utec, or that its not worth the money. What I am trying to suggest is that a Haltech is not neccessary for a safe, reliably tuned car that runs well.
-I have never stalled at a red/stop light.
-My car requries no more cranking to start then it did when stock
-My car idles smoothly at ~700rpm
-My A/F's have not changed even though my car was tuned at about 85 deg F and it is now around 40 deg F
How can I not be having any of these issues while some of you did? I dont know - You can call my tuner, Bobby at Performance Race Engineering in Portland, OR, his number is (503) 619-0055.
I will still maintain that the Utec is a suitable EMS for low to medium power levels (say, sub 500rwhp). Maybe some of you that had issues were trying to take it to far, or using injectors too big (I have RC 650's btw). But it will work fine for a guy with a procharger that doesn't plan on going crazy.
The same goes for stalling at a stop light - that is insanity.
Again, I am not trying to suggest that a Haltech isnt a worlds better EMS then the Utec, or that its not worth the money. What I am trying to suggest is that a Haltech is not neccessary for a safe, reliably tuned car that runs well.
-I have never stalled at a red/stop light.
-My car requries no more cranking to start then it did when stock
-My car idles smoothly at ~700rpm
-My A/F's have not changed even though my car was tuned at about 85 deg F and it is now around 40 deg F
How can I not be having any of these issues while some of you did? I dont know - You can call my tuner, Bobby at Performance Race Engineering in Portland, OR, his number is (503) 619-0055.
I will still maintain that the Utec is a suitable EMS for low to medium power levels (say, sub 500rwhp). Maybe some of you that had issues were trying to take it to far, or using injectors too big (I have RC 650's btw). But it will work fine for a guy with a procharger that doesn't plan on going crazy.
#36
i am calling a very good shop for z's and a very reputable tuner, julian from mrc i have heard nothing but good things. i am going to find out which they have the most experience in tuning, not to see what they want to sell me, and to the comment go ride in a FI z in my area, yeah ok, that would be nice trust me i have the only z in my area and surrounding area. once in a great while i see 1 z in cooperstown, ny where i work (yes baseball hall of fame is here), it is a 05 bone stock, auto, blue and an old man drives it. I have never ever seen another z in this area besides mine and that blue one. go ride in a ride in a FI z in my area controlled by a utec, lmao that is a good one. i def. do not want the hesitation i hear about that is a fact. do all piggy backs do this or is there a smoother piggy back i would be more happy with.
#39
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i am calling a very good shop for z's and a very reputable tuner, julian from mrc i have heard nothing but good things. i am going to find out which they have the most experience in tuning, not to see what they want to sell me, and to the comment go ride in a FI z in my area, yeah ok, that would be nice trust me i have the only z in my area and surrounding area. once in a great while i see 1 z in cooperstown, ny where i work (yes baseball hall of fame is here), it is a 05 bone stock, auto, blue and an old man drives it. I have never ever seen another z in this area besides mine and that blue one. go ride in a ride in a FI z in my area controlled by a utec, lmao that is a good one. i def. do not want the hesitation i hear about that is a fact. do all piggy backs do this or is there a smoother piggy back i would be more happy with.
Yeah...Julian is a honest guy who knows VQ's.....just make sure that you remove ALL seeds from your ashtray and under your seats. If it aint tobacco REMOVE IT !!
BTW...where is the love for the F-con? Have we all forgotten about the Fcon??