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best camber spec for max traction!!!

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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 11:01 AM
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Default best camber spec for max traction!!!

just ordered my SPC rear camber/toe kit. what spec camber would be optimal for max traction with decent street handling manners? i think i read Alberto is running -1.0 deg camber on the rears. BTW i am running 295/ 30/ 18 rubber on the rear with the quarter lips rolled on a eibach pro kit.

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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 11:03 AM
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traction for what?

drag racing?

cornering?
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 11:06 AM
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mostly drag racing.I would like to get this dialed in some what due to last time i hit the track i got into some mad wheel hop and snapped my left axle.

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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 11:34 AM
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-1~0 camber for the ol' 1320... -2 camber for everything else. :-)

Last edited by gothchick; Oct 14, 2008 at 11:39 AM.
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 11:46 AM
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Thank You!!
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 12:07 PM
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Ive run from -1 through -4.2 (dont ask)

-2 at all 4 corners handled like it was on rails.

-1 rear, -1.5 front is what I run now and it handles well, but not like it used to. My car the way its setup could still rail most cars in the twisties....
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 12:36 PM
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Thank You for the insight Alberto!! i will tell the aligment shop to shoot for -1.0 in the rear and -1.5 in the front and see how that feels. it sounds like the happy medium i am looking for. Vegas roads are terrible, they are very slick year round. just the other day i found myself spinning the rears and fishtailing on the freeway at 80mph after downing it to 4th gear and punching it! due to the traction issues i am having toyota hybirds are walking away from me at stop lights. i am sick of this and am making the appropriate changes so i can just hook and go. next will be some R 888 rubber. Thanks again.........

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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 01:08 PM
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lols at the toyota hybrid walking from you , mustve spun pretty bad .
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by JET MECH
Thank You for the insight Alberto!! i will tell the aligment shop to shoot for -1.0 in the rear and -1.5 in the front and see how that feels. it sounds like the happy medium i am looking for. Vegas roads are terrible, they are very slick year round. just the other day i found myself spinning the rears and fishtailing on the freeway at 80mph after downing it to 4th gear and punching it! due to the traction issues i am having toyota hybirds are walking away from me at stop lights. i am sick of this and am making the appropriate changes so i can just hook and go. next will be some R 888 rubber. Thanks again.........
you may need better tires.. i dead hook in 2nd with 500whp on 295 bfg kdw2's. what part of town do you live in?

however.. with my t1r's in the rear 2nd and almost all of 3rd were non existent.

one more thing.. my camber in the rear is -1.0 as well

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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by foreignsoda
you may need better tires.. i dead hook in 2nd with 500whp on 295 bfg kdw2's. what part of town do you live in?

however.. with my t1r's in the rear 2nd and almost all of 3rd were non existent.

one more thing.. my camber in the rear is -1.0 as well
NW, durango and 95. you should show up to one of the 350zen club meet's. i will bring you for a ride!! you will laugh your *** off at how bad my traction is. honestly i have not checked it but i think i am running around -4.0 deg of camber in the back, maybe even more. BTW i am running kumho ecsta mx rubber, they are horrible tires IMO. 295 rear 285 front.

Last edited by JET MECH; Oct 14, 2008 at 04:28 PM.
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 02:13 PM
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no camber is the best for traction! keep 'em straight up.

actually, you may even want to angle the top out just slightly so that when the a$$ squats, you won't have too much negative camber.
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Alberto
Ive run from -1 through -4.2 (dont ask)

-2 at all 4 corners handled like it was on rails.

-1 rear, -1.5 front is what I run now and it handles well, but not like it used to. My car the way its setup could still rail most cars in the twisties....
The alignment guy at Butler (in Atlanta near FP) told me that it wasn't a good idea to run less negative camber in the rear than in the front. Because my front camber was not adjustable (without new hardware), my rear camber was limited (I think it was set at -2.3, fronts set at -2.1).

EDIT: I should add that in the interim, I have done some reading, and other "experts" say that more negative camber in the front is ok to manage the dive in for turns. I decided to get SPL A arms for the front and go to my local expert and just tell him I want it to go straight.

Last edited by rcdash; Oct 14, 2008 at 02:43 PM.
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 03:25 PM
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Ive never heard or read that its not good to run more neg camber in the front. It helps turn in.

I know of one member who I believe runs -.5, and while Im sure it won handle like a$$, I wont run less than 1 degree to maintain decent handling.
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 03:32 PM
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I use -1.0 front and 0 rear....no issues with traction after 2nd gear. My tires cause traction limits...not camber or toe
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by rcdash
The alignment guy at Butler (in Atlanta near FP) told me that it wasn't a good idea to run less negative camber in the rear than in the front. Because my front camber was not adjustable (without new hardware), my rear camber was limited (I think it was set at -2.3, fronts set at -2.1).

EDIT: I should add that in the interim, I have done some reading, and other "experts" say that more negative camber in the front is ok to manage the dive in for turns. I decided to get SPL A arms for the front and go to my local expert and just tell him I want it to go straight.

Originally Posted by Alberto
Ive never heard or read that its not good to run more neg camber in the front. It helps turn in.

I know of one member who I believe runs -.5, and while Im sure it won handle like a$$, I wont run less than 1 degree to maintain decent handling.
I think Raj may have misunderstood what was said...
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by XKR
I think Raj may have misunderstood what was said...
Well I told the guy I didn't like the amount of negative camber in the rear (it was way off initially) and got the camber arms and toe bolts installed back there so I could get more traction - asked for -1.5 in the back. And then he gave me the story of why he wouldn't go beyond -2.3 and told me I needed to fix the front first. Maybe just his experience, but he does this for a living... I could have misunderstood, but I went over it carefully with him. I was talking to him the whole time he was working on the car. I did tell him I favored straight line over twisties and he gave me a little toe in in the back. He would not adjust to less camber than what you see in the attached pic despite my request to straighten out the rear.
Attached Thumbnails best camber spec for max traction!!!-ccf00972008_00000.jpg  

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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by rcdash
Well I told the guy I didn't like the amount of negative camber in the rear (it was way off initially) and got the camber arms and toe bolts installed back there so I could get more traction - asked for -1.5 in the back. And then he gave me the story of why he wouldn't go beyond -2.3 and told me I needed to fix the front first. Maybe just his experience, but he does this for a living... I could have misunderstood, but I went over it carefully with him. I was talking to him the whole time he was working on the car. I did tell him I favored straight line over twisties and he gave me a little toe in in the back. He would not adjust to less camber than what you see in the attached pic despite my request to straighten out the rear.
So you dont have an adjustable arm in the front If you dont... that would explain what he means....
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by XKR
So you dont have an adjustable arm in the front If you dont... that would explain what he means....
Well I didn't then. I've got SPL street spec arms sitting in my garage now waiting for someone to install them.

But my point was that he was unwilling to go to -1.5 in the rear while leaving the front at -2.0.

You guys are confusing me. You said you have less negative camber in the rear than the front (0 vs -1). So why was this guy complaining about a -1.5 vs -2 setup (rear vs. front)?

Last edited by rcdash; Oct 15, 2008 at 06:15 AM.
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by rcdash
Well I didn't then. I've got SPL street spec arms sitting in my garage now waiting for someone to install them.

But my point was that he was unwilling to go to -1.5 in the rear while leaving the front at -2.0.

You guys are confusing me. You said you have less negative camber in the rear than the front (0 vs -1). So why was this guy complaining about a -1.5 vs -2 setup (rear vs. front)?
I have always heard that running more negative camber in the front and less in the rear is the best compromise you can achieve (between traction and handling).
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 07:04 AM
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Well then maybe I didn't need the SPL arms I bought. Wouldn't be the first time I added something to the car I didn't need.
(not talking about the turbos, everyone needs those )
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