I got the code it was like P0300 for multiple cylinder misfires. Plugs are all gapped to .037 checked to make sure ignition wires are all plugged into the coils properly and the coils are making contact with the plugs. When I pulled the plugs 3 were jet black with carbon and 3 were off-white and smelled like fuel.

I'm not mechanic so I'm asking for some insight into a solution.

Thanks

 

I have had that code for probably 3 years now...welcome to the world of Turbo's. Its a common code. Just reset it and more than likely it will keep coming back. I haven't reset mine in a long long time. If you're running 1 step colder plugs you can leave them at the .044 gap that they come out of the box with. Who tuned your car,those plugs don't look so good.

 

What engine mgmt are you using?

 

TN reflash, UTEC, now FCON and I have always had this code. Literally 3 years, you will be fine

 

same here

I've changed so much crap over the years and that code has been there since forever. It doesn't mean anything, but might be a pain in the *** to pass emissions

 

Man I hate that code.
Seems like when I don't have it ON, I have a good day.
Mine comes & goes, mainly comes on a cold start warm up & at long idles.

 

I don't want to tempt fate but I've never had that code. In fact, I've been CEL free for some time now (and without cheating, for the most part, despite the Haltech being in control). That misfire code says its due to a fluctuating CKP sensor. The way you describe your plugs, it would seem one bank is running rich, the other normal/lean. Do you have dual widebands with closed loop turned on for the FCON? Maybe one O2 sensor is out of whack?

Also with the Haltech, copy through timing at idle, prevents the stock ECU from complaining about not having control... Coachk, do you have that enabled? ('C' in the timing cells in the bottom left corner) The only code I had to disable (cheat using Osiris to disable) was the P0011, P0021, since my CAM tune is different than stock.

 

+1 If anyone ever figured out how to tap the stock ECU to eliminate the codes and immediately reset the drive cycles they may never have to work another day in their lives. Pa emissions are a PITA - I can only get a 5k per year waiver so far.

 

The key is knowing that you only need about 20 mins of highway driving at 60 mph to be ready for OBD. Reset codes, drive conservatively (no boost) for 20 mins and go to get tested. It has worked for me in the past. If you get a "not ready", the testing stations here in NC usually will not charge for testing.

 

GTM re-flashed my ECU, and no error codes. Forged Performance also now has the ability to re-flash the ECUs, so contact Sam at GTM or Sharif at FP.

 

Yep, I can reflash my own ECU as well using Osiris Tuner but OBD will report "not ready" if you disable some of the DTC. I am still investigating the right "mix" of CELs to disable vs. leave in place to allow passing OBD testing but work well with a standalone.

 

Ok, It does sound like one bank is running rich and the other lean.

The piggy back ECU is whatever came with the APS TT kit. It isnt standalone and it isnt labeled.

It's not just a code, it's definitly misfiring. Idles hard and I recognize the sound and feeling. It won't go above 5800 RPM sometimes higher. Either way, it wont hit redline definitly. I was told that it could be because my timing is off because when i plugged in the new crank sensor it wasnt at top dead center. ANY INPUT ON THIS?????

Lastly, if it were an o2 sensor wouldnt it spit out a code for that too?
I don't really want to change those out if it can be avoided.


Thanks for all the input guys, very helpful.

No I don't have widebands set up. I bought one but I broke the power cable so I have to wait for another.

 

I also have an EGT bung and I cant find a cap for it anywhere. is this exhaust leak going to cause any wierd readings or problems which could be relating to the issue? The bung is on the downpipe Passenger side.

 

Yes, you cannot run with an open bung like that located before the O2 sensors. It will screw up your AF readings and the closed loop of the stock ECU (which the unichip piggybacks) will throw off fueling to that side.

 

The side with the open bung is the side that is misfiring.

The drivers side bank is running rich as ****.

It's generally been determined that i didnt line up the flywheel magnet and its ****ed up the timing. Didnt realize the flywheel had to be aligned a certain way so hopefully aligning it properly will set things straight.

Thanks

Anyone know where i can get a cap for an EGT bung?

 

The flywheel should only bolt up one way. From memory when I put mine in you really couldn't screw it up.

As far as where the motor is when you plug the crank angle sensor in that doesn't matter at all. The motor doesn't have to be at top dead center when you plug it in. In fact, that sensor isn't even powered when the ignition is off, so the majority of the ime when its "plugged in" (ie turned on) the motor isn't at TDC.

I would plug the EGT sensor hole and see if that fixes the issue. With an open spot for the exhaust to suck in fresh air before the O2 sensor it is likely that the O2 sensor is telling the ECU to dump more fuel.

If you can't find a plug try finding an EGT sensor. Not the "best" way to go but it should seal the hole and you can just cut off the wires.

 

You can get bungs from summitracing and jegs, not to mention most any exhaust shop.

 

it really depends on the flywheel, the stock one can go on a lot of different ways. jim wolf can go on two different ways. a few others can only go on one way.

this is very important though for the car to run at all to make sure the flywheel is on the correct way...

 

When I had the flywheel off, I didnt recall it having any notches or slots or pins that it had to line up to correctly to. But I am getting the cap for the bung today or tomorrow and if that doesnt fix it i'll be dropping the tranny saturday.

I hope its the bung. It's the back two cylinders on the passenger side bank that are misfiring.

 

All problems are fixed. EGT bung exhaust leak was throwing the O2 sensors and causing the lean/rich issue between the banks.

Not for my next problem.

I'm still getting the same CEL for misfires even though the engine runs smoothly.

Now, if I want to turn off TCS I have to manually reset my ECU. Otherwise I start the car and TCS Off and SLIP lights are already on.

Any suggestions?

Thanks again guys.