Questions on Vortech, Aquamist, UTEC, and SS box
#1
Questions on Vortech, Aquamist, UTEC, and SS box
This weekend I plan on installing the Aquamist HFS-1, UTEC, 550 deatchwerk injectors, and potentially my AAM Stage 1 and 2 fuel return system on the Z so it will be a long weekend. After combing the instructions about a millions times I feel confident in installing these items on my car but not confident in what nozzle size to use is my . In the instructions there is a place that tells you what nozzles could be used based off a graph. Here's the instructions:
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gall...FS-1web-sr.pdf
Here are my list of question:
1. I'm trying to figure out what size nozzle to use with Aquamist HFS-1 kit I would use on my Z. I have a Vortech S/C, non-rev up, pushing 7-8 psi (though I potentially plan on having it produce 11 to 12), UTEC with base 550 map install (after this weekend).
2. Will the AAM Stage 1 and Stage 2 kit bypass my Vortech FMU?
3. My car is not tuned as of now and I do plan on tunning it myself to the best of my capability. I been running the Vortech kit on the Z without any known trouble with, though I have never really ran it hard or raced it (4shizzl scared the $hit out of me been shifting at like 3100 or so for about 3 months) is it possible to use the SS box in conjunction with the UTEC? I plan on using the base 550 map and not run it into boost like I have been doing, the only thing is that the SS box has been piggybacking off the stock ecu and adjusting when the car runs in boost. Is there a map on the UTEC site that is a base map for boost (i doubt but its worth asking)?
Thats all the questions I have. Thanks for check them out and for your feedback.
-Jon
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gall...FS-1web-sr.pdf
Here are my list of question:
1. I'm trying to figure out what size nozzle to use with Aquamist HFS-1 kit I would use on my Z. I have a Vortech S/C, non-rev up, pushing 7-8 psi (though I potentially plan on having it produce 11 to 12), UTEC with base 550 map install (after this weekend).
2. Will the AAM Stage 1 and Stage 2 kit bypass my Vortech FMU?
3. My car is not tuned as of now and I do plan on tunning it myself to the best of my capability. I been running the Vortech kit on the Z without any known trouble with, though I have never really ran it hard or raced it (4shizzl scared the $hit out of me been shifting at like 3100 or so for about 3 months) is it possible to use the SS box in conjunction with the UTEC? I plan on using the base 550 map and not run it into boost like I have been doing, the only thing is that the SS box has been piggybacking off the stock ecu and adjusting when the car runs in boost. Is there a map on the UTEC site that is a base map for boost (i doubt but its worth asking)?
Thats all the questions I have. Thanks for check them out and for your feedback.
-Jon
#2
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1.) I dunno
2.) fuel return not necessary under 400 rwhp
3.) UTEC will take the place of the ssbox so you'll get rid of the ssbox. You'll have to have the UTEC completely tuned from scratch. Find yourself someone familiar with UTEC and have them do it up right. There is no map on the UTEC site for it and you'll have to either pay a tuner to tune it or get someone with a similar setup to download their map onto it and street tune it from there yourself. The timing shouldn't change if you're running the same pulley as them much but the fuel maps will almost definitely need changes.
2.) fuel return not necessary under 400 rwhp
3.) UTEC will take the place of the ssbox so you'll get rid of the ssbox. You'll have to have the UTEC completely tuned from scratch. Find yourself someone familiar with UTEC and have them do it up right. There is no map on the UTEC site for it and you'll have to either pay a tuner to tune it or get someone with a similar setup to download their map onto it and street tune it from there yourself. The timing shouldn't change if you're running the same pulley as them much but the fuel maps will almost definitely need changes.
#4
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1. You'll probably do a trial and error for correct nozzle size after all the mod's and tuning.
2.No need for the Vortech SS Box/FMU/aux fuel pump or the AAM stage 2 (only need the basic AAM system)with UTEC providing you have a walbro.
3. You should seriously consider a dyno tune.
2.No need for the Vortech SS Box/FMU/aux fuel pump or the AAM stage 2 (only need the basic AAM system)with UTEC providing you have a walbro.
3. You should seriously consider a dyno tune.
#5
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Start here:
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...questions.html
Then, figure out what tuner you're going to use and call them for their advice on what you should do before bringing the car in.
Don't do it yourself - if you're asking weather or not you can use the UTEC and an SS box at the same time, you clearly don't know enough about what's going on under the hood to be tuning on your own.
And seriously, no offense intended.
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...questions.html
Then, figure out what tuner you're going to use and call them for their advice on what you should do before bringing the car in.
Don't do it yourself - if you're asking weather or not you can use the UTEC and an SS box at the same time, you clearly don't know enough about what's going on under the hood to be tuning on your own.
And seriously, no offense intended.
#6
1. You'll probably do a trial and error for correct nozzle size after all the mod's and tuning.
2.No need for the Vortech SS Box/FMU/aux fuel pump or the AAM stage 2 (only need the basic AAM system)with UTEC providing you have a walbro.
3. You should seriously consider a dyno tune.
2.No need for the Vortech SS Box/FMU/aux fuel pump or the AAM stage 2 (only need the basic AAM system)with UTEC providing you have a walbro.
3. You should seriously consider a dyno tune.
#7
Start here:
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...questions.html
Then, figure out what tuner you're going to use and call them for their advice on what you should do before bringing the car in.
Don't do it yourself - if you're asking weather or not you can use the UTEC and an SS box at the same time, you clearly don't know enough about what's going on under the hood to be tuning on your own.
And seriously, no offense intended.
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...questions.html
Then, figure out what tuner you're going to use and call them for their advice on what you should do before bringing the car in.
Don't do it yourself - if you're asking weather or not you can use the UTEC and an SS box at the same time, you clearly don't know enough about what's going on under the hood to be tuning on your own.
And seriously, no offense intended.
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#8
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you know me... one step at a time... install all you shizzil on the ride... injectors, headers, exhaust, 11psi pulley , kinetix ssv as you have done...
now get that thing tuned.... for everyday and race.
then add the aquamist to the mix so that you can trouble shoot backwards for issues.
now get that thing tuned.... for everyday and race.
then add the aquamist to the mix so that you can trouble shoot backwards for issues.
#10
New Member
iTrader: (11)
considering you cant do 90% of the added features bc you dont have a turbo or a ecu that switches maps, use a boost switch (MPS) as a trigger on pin 17 since boost is directly related to airflow with a SC.
no reason to get at the ECU.
also make sure u put the nozzle after the MAF, not near the IC as in the instructions. The instructions assume a MAP tuned car, which is not what we have (unless you are using a full standalone, u r not)
no reason to get at the ECU.
also make sure u put the nozzle after the MAF, not near the IC as in the instructions. The instructions assume a MAP tuned car, which is not what we have (unless you are using a full standalone, u r not)
#11
considering you cant do 90% of the added features bc you dont have a turbo or a ecu that switches maps, use a boost switch (MPS) as a trigger on pin 17 since boost is directly related to airflow with a SC.
no reason to get at the ECU.
also make sure u put the nozzle after the MAF, not near the IC as in the instructions. The instructions assume a MAP tuned car, which is not what we have (unless you are using a full standalone, u r not)
no reason to get at the ECU.
also make sure u put the nozzle after the MAF, not near the IC as in the instructions. The instructions assume a MAP tuned car, which is not what we have (unless you are using a full standalone, u r not)
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