D-tuned

iTrader: (3)

you could try something like this for your guages. They are velcro'ed to the cluster. Sorry for the shitty pic, I was doing 80 when I took this one. I can take better pics if your interested. The gauges are centered and everything is visible.

BoostedProbe

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the suggestion and input. I'll see if I can get a pic form XKR, although I think that he visits this build thread so he may just post the pic.

I have never worked with fiberglass, but I'm always up for lerning something new. I'll see how things go I guess.

BoostedProbe

iTrader: (9)

Interesting, but not for me. Thanks for posting though.

I made this litle plate on my old ride and mounted them down low. I liked it because it didn't draw any attention.

[IMG]<a href="http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/1997KLDE/?action=view&current=S1030410.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/1997KLDE/S1030410.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>[/IMG]

And yes that was my Ford Probe, in case people wanted to bash...

Maybe I will just have to sit down in the car for a while and figure it out. That is usually how I com up with stuff, I spent one hour under the car before comming up with this turbo idea.

SlaveLabor

^^^^ Same spot my gauges are. They are very convenient down there, and are not flashy. Something that will go with this project very well.


Oh, BTW FORD PROBES FTMFW!

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

plus that gauge pod you listed wont hold anything deeper than an innovative wideband. so basically its useless. You not just get the haltech display?

BoostedProbe

iTrader: (9)

Another weekend and a few more small things done. I was really hoping that the 2" V-band clamp and the "tee" adapter for the tubo oil supply would be here by now, but no luck. Hopefuly next week, feels like things are moving really slowly not, mainly do to waiting.


Haltech is now waiting:

<a href="http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/1997KLDE/?action=view&current=turbo2020.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/1997KLDE/turbo2020.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/1997KLDE/?action=view&current=turbo2018.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/1997KLDE/turbo2018.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/1997KLDE/?action=view&current=turbo2001.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/1997KLDE/turbo2001.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/1997KLDE/?action=view&current=turbo2002.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/1997KLDE/turbo2002.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/1997KLDE/?action=view&current=turbo2003.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/1997KLDE/turbo2003.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/1997KLDE/?action=view&current=turbo2005.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/1997KLDE/turbo2005.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/1997KLDE/?action=view&current=turbo2006.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/1997KLDE/turbo2006.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Turbo intake going to air filter:

<a href="http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/1997KLDE/?action=view&current=turbo2007.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/1997KLDE/turbo2007.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/1997KLDE/?action=view&current=turbo2008.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/1997KLDE/turbo2008.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>



Welded a stud right on to the exhaust and then made a bracket. It is solid:

<a href="http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/1997KLDE/?action=view&current=turbo2010.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/1997KLDE/turbo2010.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/1997KLDE/?action=view&current=turbo2018.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/1997KLDE/turbo2018.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


You can see the air filter just above the silicone coupler:

<a href="http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/1997KLDE/?action=view&current=turbo2019.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/1997KLDE/turbo2019.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>



Now that I have the two widebands with wiring, what is the belst place to pull the cable through to the cabin? I know that the power supply to the amp in the back comes through just behind the battery, is this the best place? I still can't decide on where I will put my gauges, I think I will probably get the 2 pod pillar and call it a day. If I do end up going that way, how/where do I run those wires/hose (for boost gauge)?

Input welcome.


If I end up doing this again (possibly for a local member) it will look MUCH cleaner. I will use all 304 stainless and will get short radius 45's and 90's. The 409ss kit that I had bought for this project had legs that were just too long for this application. It is tight under there. The 304 stainless will greatly reduce amount of welding and the welds will be almost invisible, this is due to perfect factory square ends. I ended up changing things and had to make a bunch of extra cuts/welds, so that didn't help either. If I was to do it again, I can do all the hot pipes in one day. Cold pipes would be one day as well.

gothchick

iTrader: (12)

Yeah, behind the battery through that rubber boot is the best place to pull wiring.

Here's a few mounting options for gauges:

Cass007

iTrader: (34)

^^^ Pretty sure that the top right pic is XKR's G.

XKR

iTrader: (1)

Thats mine....I changed the shift handle again...so it took me a second to figure it out

D@mn you work fast...too good to be true...it looks good...you should be proud. I have a G...so the one that Gothchick posted ( first picture on the left of the Defi gauges) would be a perfect fit for you. If I had a Z..that what I would go with...very clean. If you can do a turbo setup like this by yourself...I know you can install them in that position..


WOW....$2000....plus if you market this system and add another $2500 to it for your time..at $4500 that would make you "Man of the Year"

BoostedProbe

iTrader: (9)

Thank you, and I was thinking $4000. With the Canada/US echange rates I'm looking even better. And the next kit will look even better...

Maybe a tuner kit for even less.

XKR

iTrader: (1)

Thats cheap...keep up the good work..cant wait for the dyno run...370-400 should be easy..especially now that you are using the Haltech

Nate76s

Can you make it fit a G? cause 4k is awesome.

BoostedProbe

iTrader: (9)

Ofcourse I can make it fit a G, care to drive up here and I can show you..


On a more serious note, I have never seen what the under side of a G looks like. If there is an opening on the under side like on the Z, ( where the turbo is) then I am sure the hot pipes would work just fine.

I am not sure about the cold pipes, the front, with all the splash guards could be a bit different on the G. But again, I am sure I could come up with something.

I will only look at this option (making kits) if there is enough interest. It would be a large investment on my part, but I have done something like this before.

rr_z33

iTrader: (2)

if your going to start selling turbo kits you really should do a built motor so you can really see the limits of the system. but great DIY. watched this from the beginning really good stuff man.

BoostedProbe

iTrader: (9)

I don't think this is geared towards the guys with built motors. If you have a built motor then the twin turbo is for you. This would be a kit for guys wanting to run a max of 400whp on a stock block. This is what I am doing with it, and 400whp IMO is more than enough to get you in a ton of trouble on the street.

When the time comes to tune the car I will take a "safe tune" over max hp tune. So even though I may be able to get 400whp, I would rather be "safe" and make 360whp. If you know what I mean.

If this (building kits) is something that happens down the road, I would use the money I make, get a built block, and go from there. The block that I was looking at is good for 600hp and I know that there is no way I can make that much with this turbo.

Chef-J

iTrader: (58)

wow it's almost done!

BoostedProbe

iTrader: (9)

Should have been done a long time ago, taking so dam long to get stuff shipped to Canada. And you already know about shipping stuff from Canada, I havn't heard anything yet from Canada post regarding the lost UTEC. Maybe tommorow, I'll keep you up to date.

Chef-J

iTrader: (58)

I feel your pain bro...

JuJube

iTrader: (3)

Lookin good Boostedprobe.

Let me know when it's time to fire it up and we can start adjusting the Haltech. :-)

I love Haltech.

Nate76s

There is a built block VQ w/ a rear mount turbo in the 500s on pump gas. I see no reason that this setup couldn't go for bigger power with a bigger turbo and the right supporting mods. Of course you will probably not see 800-900 but that is probably ok.