any way to bypass
I will have to try it again. This was back when I had my first custom T70 ST kit. Tried it getting ready to go the track and trying to do standing burnouts outside the shop to practice warming my tires up. Never was able to press the gas and brake at the same time though.
Are you manual or auto?
Are you manual or auto?
Last edited by Quamen; May 27, 2009 at 06:29 AM.
I can't say for sure if anyone has done this before or not, I didn't come across any other threads on the matter. The idea just hit me one day while messing around with the UTEC. I'd love to be able to take credit for the idea but someone has to have come up with this before me.
I have no pictures as all you'd see is a few electrical connections and a relay.
I have no pictures as all you'd see is a few electrical connections and a relay.
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From: St. pete FL
I can't say for sure if anyone has done this before or not, I didn't come across any other threads on the matter. The idea just hit me one day while messing around with the UTEC. I'd love to be able to take credit for the idea but someone has to have come up with this before me.
I have no pictures as all you'd see is a few electrical connections and a relay.
I have no pictures as all you'd see is a few electrical connections and a relay.
theres nothing really to make though.
he just wired in a relay between the 2 sides of the 101 pin wire. the relay is just grounded by the UTEC. when the settings are met in the UTEC, it grounds the relay trigger, which cuts the signal from the brake wire (same as flipping that manual switch).
that allows you to brake boost.
Its actually a pretty good idea. relays can do alot of stuff like that.
he just wired in a relay between the 2 sides of the 101 pin wire. the relay is just grounded by the UTEC. when the settings are met in the UTEC, it grounds the relay trigger, which cuts the signal from the brake wire (same as flipping that manual switch).
that allows you to brake boost.
Its actually a pretty good idea. relays can do alot of stuff like that.
Last edited by str8dum1; May 27, 2009 at 12:10 PM.
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From: St. pete FL
theres nothing really to make though.
he just wired in a relay between the 2 sides of the 101 pin wire. the relay is just grounded by the UTEC. when the settings are met in the UTEC, it grounds the relay trigger, which cuts the signal from the brake wire (same as flipping that manual switch).
that allows you to brake boost.
Its actually a pretty good idea. relays can do alot of stuff like that.
he just wired in a relay between the 2 sides of the 101 pin wire. the relay is just grounded by the UTEC. when the settings are met in the UTEC, it grounds the relay trigger, which cuts the signal from the brake wire (same as flipping that manual switch).
that allows you to brake boost.
Its actually a pretty good idea. relays can do alot of stuff like that.
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this is the relay right? so on the relay itself you connected power and 101 signal on the side that has three coils? no ground on the relay itself just the utec? and the side with the 1 coil you ran that to the utec correct?
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the way i would do it is to use the red wire (there shoulda been the black wire you grounded and an unused red wire) and use the UTEC spare solenoid settings to trigger the relay.
** don't be confused, that red wire is not a positive, but a negative trigger**
I use that red wire as the negative ground trigger for my methanol injection.
Basically you'd just set the parameter in the settings as like 1200 for rpm and 0 or everything else like coolant temp, etc.
for my setup, the red wire provides the ground for my pump relay so it turns on the pump when i hit a certain psi.
That way you are NOT restricted to map 5
** don't be confused, that red wire is not a positive, but a negative trigger**
I use that red wire as the negative ground trigger for my methanol injection.
Basically you'd just set the parameter in the settings as like 1200 for rpm and 0 or everything else like coolant temp, etc.
for my setup, the red wire provides the ground for my pump relay so it turns on the pump when i hit a certain psi.
That way you are NOT restricted to map 5
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From: St. pete FL
the way i would do it is to use the red wire (there shoulda been the black wire you grounded and an unused red wire) and use the UTEC spare solenoid settings to trigger the relay.
** don't be confused, that red wire is not a positive, but a negative trigger**
I use that red wire as the negative ground trigger for my methanol injection.
Basically you'd just set the parameter in the settings as like 1200 for rpm and 0 or everything else like coolant temp, etc.
for my setup, the red wire provides the ground for my pump relay so it turns on the pump when i hit a certain psi.
That way you are NOT restricted to map 5
** don't be confused, that red wire is not a positive, but a negative trigger**
I use that red wire as the negative ground trigger for my methanol injection.
Basically you'd just set the parameter in the settings as like 1200 for rpm and 0 or everything else like coolant temp, etc.
for my setup, the red wire provides the ground for my pump relay so it turns on the pump when i hit a certain psi.
That way you are NOT restricted to map 5
edit.. just found the molex connector
yea im gonna use the spare solenoid setting as brakefluid did
Last edited by DudeMan; May 27, 2009 at 05:45 PM.
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well what number should be put in? wouldnt 100 be a constant signal? would that make the throttle close while under 1200rpms then making it struggle off the line at stop lights etc?
i dont even know what screen he was looking at.
you need to go to user constants
spare solenoid on: 1200
tps%: 0
air temp : 0
coolant:0
MAP(psi):-10
delay:0
that will flip the brake switch anytime you go over 1200 rpms, and every time the car is idling the switch is off, so you wont throw any codes.
only issue with this would be if you drive on the hwy. extended non-idle drive times will prolly throw the code.
in that case, i would set that rpm to like 7000 or something higher than your cruise rpm
you need to go to user constants
spare solenoid on: 1200
tps%: 0
air temp : 0
coolant:0
MAP(psi):-10
delay:0
that will flip the brake switch anytime you go over 1200 rpms, and every time the car is idling the switch is off, so you wont throw any codes.
only issue with this would be if you drive on the hwy. extended non-idle drive times will prolly throw the code.
in that case, i would set that rpm to like 7000 or something higher than your cruise rpm
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