DudeMan

how when you brake your throttle will close more because of the ecu

brake boosting sucks with it i can only brake boost to -5psi

QuicksilverZ33

iTrader: (34)

https://my350z.com/forum/drag/402089...nout-help.html

I found that thread using the search feature. There is good info in it.

DudeMan

yea i know about the fuse but you loose brake lights which will suck driving on the street

so theres no other way?

Sylvan Lake V35

iTrader: (23)

Wire a switch in for when you want to launch under boost. Or get a Vi-PEC EMS it controls the drive by wire throttle so the factory ecu has no control.

DudeMan

yea maybe something not $2300

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

then just wire the switch into the yaw sensor for 3$

DudeMan

do you mean wire a switch into the fuse? or the "purple" wire near the ebrake?

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

There is a seperate wire that runs directly to the ECU to tell it when the brake is pushed. Put the switch in that wire.

However, if you keep the switch off too long and the ECU doesn't see the brake pushed it will throw a code so you basically need to only switch it off when you want to brake boost.

DudeMan

sweet do you know which one by any chance 04.5 g35 if its different between years and thanks

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

I don't remember - grab the ec.pdf file from the service manual and look at the pinout for the ECU - it should be around page 100 or so.

DudeMan

thanks is it going to be labeled as vdc, yaw,etc..?

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

I believe it will be labeled something along the lines of brake input

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

It's pin 101 and it's the brake or stop lamp switch.

Quamen

iTrader: (14)

I removed the fuse for the stop lamp switch back in '05 and it didn't make a difference at all. Still couldn't press the gas and brake at the same time regardless of what I did.

Sylvan Lake V35

iTrader: (23)

Worked for me

DudeMan

any of you install a switch for 101

BlinkerFluid

iTrader: (7)

I used the output of the UTEC to open a relay, preventing the ECU from seeing the brake switch signal over 1200RPM. The ECU still gets it's brake signal while I'm stopped at a redlight or whatever, and I can brake boost and do burnouts at will.

DudeMan

a-z steps please? i have a utec so this would be perfect

any codes? brake lights work etc?

BlinkerFluid

iTrader: (7)

No codes, brake lights work as designed, and it isn't too difficult for someone with basic electrical knowledge.

You need some wire, soldering equipment, electrical tape, and a relay. I used a very small 12V single pole single throw (SPST) reed relay. (Radio Shack PN 275-233)

I soldered lengths of wire onto the coil and switch terminals of the relay, and cut and connected the switch contacts of the relay into the brake switch signal to the ECU (pin 101 IIRC) in series.

Then locate whatever pin is the ignition switched 12V on the vehicle wiring harness and connect that to one side of the coil on the relay. Hook the other side of the coil on the relay up to pin 7 on the UTEC MOLEX connector, make sure pin 1 on the UTEC is grounded.

Connected like this, the relay has to be powered to pass the brake signal through to the ECU. You want to power the relay below 1200RPM, or whatever you choose.

Go into the UTEC settings, I'll have to hook it up tomorrow to get you the exact locations for the settings but with UTEC software 2.8d you will want to have it use map 5 for spare solenoid control as I could not get a proper output using all the other spare solenoid criteria. Go to map 5 and put a value of 100 in the cells that correspond with the load/RPM you want the ECU to see the brake switch signal and leave the rest 0. Again I suggest putting 100 in all load cells below 1500RPM or so.

I'll go check my settings again tomorrow to make sure this is correct as it's been a while since I've messed with it.

Enjoy your ability to brake boost, and do good burnouts without having to pull fuses, flip switches, or worry about CELs.

Hope this helps.

DudeMan

well done any pics of the install? did you come up with this yourself?