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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 10:24 AM
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Default Wideband 02 sensor

I'm looking for new wideband sensor for my haltech gauge. Last time when i went dyno tuned, it was off about 1.5~2.0. Had it for about 3000 milies now. But Is there any other brand sensors i can try? beside sensor came with haltech. ( i think haltech comes with bosch )

What you guys using it?
other brand 02 sensors are all same as haltech ones?

Thanks
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 11:17 AM
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chef, how did you tell that it was off by that much? I use the AEM wideband, I think they sell the sensor separately too.
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 11:26 AM
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Using the AEM Wideband, very happy so far.
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 12:16 PM
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Haltech is pretty good, I'm just thinking my sensor is done.

On the dyno they stick in wideband sensor on muffler tips, it showed 14.1 or 14.5 all time at idle, but my gauge was jumping around 13~17...at idle. Lol
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 02:15 PM
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Solid 14.1? My idle on my AEM jumps from 15-15.8
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 02:24 PM
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Yep on dyno it was pretty solid at 14.1~14.5.

Dyno and gauge has some diffs, dyno tuner uses over 200 sensors and most of us uses less than 100 bucks sensors.

But when I got haltech gauge it reads almost perfect not much bump around, but sensor didn't last long(I think )lol
Originally Posted by Vas@Extended
Solid 14.1? My idle on my AEM jumps from 15-15.8
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 04:52 PM
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the AEM is bosch as well.

do u have cats? testing at the end of the exhaust if you have cats gives a false reading.

either way, if you think that the tailpipe sniffer is accurate, i'm sure theres a wideband calibration/offset for that haltech piece
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
the AEM is bosch as well.

do u have cats? testing at the end of the exhaust if you have cats gives a false reading.

either way, if you think that the tailpipe sniffer is accurate, i'm sure theres a wideband calibration/offset for that haltech piece
Metallic HFC, flow much as TP. ( I'm not saying close to TP lol )

I don't know i rather trust over 200 sensor than 70 dollars sensor? lol i'm trying to contact hal@IP, but he is not in office untill next week.

I tink haltech is using bosch 5wire
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 07:11 PM
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well considering your tune is based on the the tail pipe sniffer, matchin to that is most important.

what I do is just take a log after the tune using my equipment and then I can compare to the dyno's #. That way i have data to compare when i do a street pull.
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
well considering your tune is based on the the tail pipe sniffer, matchin to that is most important.

what I do is just take a log after the tune using my equipment and then I can compare to the dyno's #. That way i have data to compare when i do a street pull.
That's very true, since my haltech is connected to top of my HFC. If my dyno sheet shows A/F ratio it would work, but since my dyno sheet won't shows A/F how am i going to compare?
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 04:33 AM
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The Haltech wideband controller has free air calibration. Did you try that?
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 05:32 AM
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How you do that? same as innovate wideband gauge? i checked their website but didn't find any.
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 07:17 AM
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Does your set up look like the following?



The free air calibration is performed with the two blue potentiometers on the black control box.
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 09:32 AM
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Mine is single, but guess I gotta ask ip to see where they put the control box at. I will try that before buy a sensor.
Thanks for info rcdash.

Originally Posted by rcdash
Does your set up look like the following?



The free air calibration is performed with the two blue potentiometers on the black control box.
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 10:37 AM
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the prolly put it in the battery box
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
the prolly put it in the battery box
Nah, my w/m injection and boost gauge sensor in the battery box.
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 01:15 PM
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J, Lift up on the rear of the trim piece that surrounds your shifter.

While I prefer you remove the o2 sensor from the exhaust for free air calibration, I suppose you could do it with the sensor in the exhaust if you have waited overnight or an extended period of time allowing all of the fuel/exhaust to escape.

Haltech Wideband Calibration:
After wiring, a free air calibration is required with the sensor out of the exhaust (and preferably outside). Turn the trimpots fully counterclockwise and then power up the wideband controller. After 60 seconds, slowly turn each trimpot clockwise until the corresponding LED starts flashing at a rapid rate. Try to set each trimpot at the point where its LED just starts to flash. If you cannot get an LED to flash when its trimpot is full clockwise, you either have a damaged sensor or very high hydrocarbon levels in your environment.

A fault indication will cause the LED to blink at a slow rate. Fault conditions include voltage less than 11 or over 16.5, sensor open circuit, or sensor short circuit.
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Hal@IP
J, Lift up on the rear of the trim piece that surrounds your shifter.

While I prefer you remove the o2 sensor from the exhaust for free air calibration, I suppose you could do it with the sensor in the exhaust if you have waited overnight or an extended period of time allowing all of the fuel/exhaust to escape.
That's kinda secret area btw, Have a good trip and i will try that if not I will touch you back on monday or something.

Last edited by Chef-J; Jun 10, 2009 at 08:45 PM.
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Chef-J
Mine is single, but guess I gotta ask ip to see where they put the control box at. I will try that before buy a sensor.
Thanks for info rcdash.
If you go down the page of this link you can see where I mounted my controller. Works great.

https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...cation-12.html
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by BoostedProbe
If you go down the page of this link you can see where I mounted my controller. Works great.

https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...cation-12.html
Coo, thanks for sharing it. But I wouldn't relocate the sensor, since my W/M sensor and boost gauge sensor is in that location.
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