Wideband 02 sensor
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From: Dallas/NewYork/Michigan/Korea
I'm looking for new wideband sensor for my haltech gauge. Last time when i went dyno tuned, it was off about 1.5~2.0. Had it for about 3000 milies now. But Is there any other brand sensors i can try? beside sensor came with haltech. ( i think haltech comes with bosch )
What you guys using it?
other brand 02 sensors are all same as haltech ones?
Thanks
What you guys using it?
other brand 02 sensors are all same as haltech ones?
Thanks
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Dallas/NewYork/Michigan/Korea
Haltech is pretty good, I'm just thinking my sensor is done.
On the dyno they stick in wideband sensor on muffler tips, it showed 14.1 or 14.5 all time at idle, but my gauge was jumping around 13~17...at idle. Lol
On the dyno they stick in wideband sensor on muffler tips, it showed 14.1 or 14.5 all time at idle, but my gauge was jumping around 13~17...at idle. Lol
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Yep on dyno it was pretty solid at 14.1~14.5.
Dyno and gauge has some diffs, dyno tuner uses over 200 sensors and most of us uses less than 100 bucks sensors.
But when I got haltech gauge it reads almost perfect not much bump around, but sensor didn't last long(I think )lol
Dyno and gauge has some diffs, dyno tuner uses over 200 sensors and most of us uses less than 100 bucks sensors.
But when I got haltech gauge it reads almost perfect not much bump around, but sensor didn't last long(I think )lol
the AEM is bosch as well.
do u have cats? testing at the end of the exhaust if you have cats gives a false reading.
either way, if you think that the tailpipe sniffer is accurate, i'm sure theres a wideband calibration/offset for that haltech piece
do u have cats? testing at the end of the exhaust if you have cats gives a false reading.
either way, if you think that the tailpipe sniffer is accurate, i'm sure theres a wideband calibration/offset for that haltech piece
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I don't know i rather trust over 200 sensor than 70 dollars sensor? lol i'm trying to contact hal@IP, but he is not in office untill next week.
I tink haltech is using bosch 5wire
well considering your tune is based on the the tail pipe sniffer, matchin to that is most important.
what I do is just take a log after the tune using my equipment and then I can compare to the dyno's #. That way i have data to compare when i do a street pull.
what I do is just take a log after the tune using my equipment and then I can compare to the dyno's #. That way i have data to compare when i do a street pull.
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That's very true, since my haltech is connected to top of my HFC. If my dyno sheet shows A/F ratio it would work, but since my dyno sheet won't shows A/F how am i going to compare?
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Mine is single, but guess I gotta ask ip to see where they put the control box at. I will try that before buy a sensor.
Thanks for info rcdash.
Thanks for info rcdash.

J, Lift up on the rear of the trim piece that surrounds your shifter.
While I prefer you remove the o2 sensor from the exhaust for free air calibration, I suppose you could do it with the sensor in the exhaust if you have waited overnight or an extended period of time allowing all of the fuel/exhaust to escape.
Haltech Wideband Calibration:
After wiring, a free air calibration is required with the sensor out of the exhaust (and preferably outside). Turn the trimpots fully counterclockwise and then power up the wideband controller. After 60 seconds, slowly turn each trimpot clockwise until the corresponding LED starts flashing at a rapid rate. Try to set each trimpot at the point where its LED just starts to flash. If you cannot get an LED to flash when its trimpot is full clockwise, you either have a damaged sensor or very high hydrocarbon levels in your environment.
A fault indication will cause the LED to blink at a slow rate. Fault conditions include voltage less than 11 or over 16.5, sensor open circuit, or sensor short circuit.
While I prefer you remove the o2 sensor from the exhaust for free air calibration, I suppose you could do it with the sensor in the exhaust if you have waited overnight or an extended period of time allowing all of the fuel/exhaust to escape.
Haltech Wideband Calibration:
After wiring, a free air calibration is required with the sensor out of the exhaust (and preferably outside). Turn the trimpots fully counterclockwise and then power up the wideband controller. After 60 seconds, slowly turn each trimpot clockwise until the corresponding LED starts flashing at a rapid rate. Try to set each trimpot at the point where its LED just starts to flash. If you cannot get an LED to flash when its trimpot is full clockwise, you either have a damaged sensor or very high hydrocarbon levels in your environment.
A fault indication will cause the LED to blink at a slow rate. Fault conditions include voltage less than 11 or over 16.5, sensor open circuit, or sensor short circuit.
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J, Lift up on the rear of the trim piece that surrounds your shifter.
While I prefer you remove the o2 sensor from the exhaust for free air calibration, I suppose you could do it with the sensor in the exhaust if you have waited overnight or an extended period of time allowing all of the fuel/exhaust to escape.
While I prefer you remove the o2 sensor from the exhaust for free air calibration, I suppose you could do it with the sensor in the exhaust if you have waited overnight or an extended period of time allowing all of the fuel/exhaust to escape.
btw, Have a good trip and i will try that if not I will touch you back on monday or something.
Last edited by Chef-J; Jun 10, 2009 at 08:45 PM.
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...cation-12.html
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From: Dallas/NewYork/Michigan/Korea
If you go down the page of this link you can see where I mounted my controller. Works great.
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...cation-12.html
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...cation-12.html
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