Installed my Cosworth intake manifold
09-15-2009, 06:56 AM
#22
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It sounds like boost was getting into the crankcase through the PCV and was being blown out the driver's side vent.
I drilled out the PCV, use a short section of 3/8" fuel injection hose (SAE30R9 quality), and then have a 3/8 to 5/8" adapter I bought online somewhere (high temp plastic). I use 5/8" heater hose for most of the plumbing.
I drilled out the PCV, use a short section of 3/8" fuel injection hose (SAE30R9 quality), and then have a 3/8 to 5/8" adapter I bought online somewhere (high temp plastic). I use 5/8" heater hose for most of the plumbing.
09-15-2009, 08:08 AM
#24
Registered User
Stock cams peak at 6250rpm. Then fall off baaaaaaddddddd.
I rev to 7200rpm as well but only to keep it in 4th longer.
we still gotta meet up one of these days.
tom
I rev to 7200rpm as well but only to keep it in 4th longer.
we still gotta meet up one of these days.
tom
09-15-2009, 08:33 AM
#26
Registered User
I think lots of people need to address their ECU, grounding, and spark plugs/gap first.
The cars running the most boost, thus SHOULD have the hardest time igniting that a/f combo are NOT running boost-a-sparks.
My car doesn't fall on its face at all, all the way to 7200rpm (and thats on stock cams/springs)
tom
The cars running the most boost, thus SHOULD have the hardest time igniting that a/f combo are NOT running boost-a-sparks.
My car doesn't fall on its face at all, all the way to 7200rpm (and thats on stock cams/springs)
tom
09-15-2009, 08:38 AM
#27
I think lots of people need to address their ECU, grounding, and spark plugs/gap first.
The cars running the most boost, thus SHOULD have the hardest time igniting that a/f combo are NOT running boost-a-sparks.
My car doesn't fall on its face at all, all the way to 7200rpm (and thats on stock cams/springs)
tom
The cars running the most boost, thus SHOULD have the hardest time igniting that a/f combo are NOT running boost-a-sparks.
My car doesn't fall on its face at all, all the way to 7200rpm (and thats on stock cams/springs)
tom
09-15-2009, 08:49 AM
#28
Thats what I used when mine started leaking from both caps. Make sure you check the end cap bolts mine backed out a bit and were only hand tight. My buddy checked his when I mentioned it and his backed out as well. This time I used the black RTV again (I think the grey would make it hard to get the end caps off if there was an issue) I also used blue thread lock this time to help with the bolts backing out. I hope you don't have the issues I did its a PITA.
09-15-2009, 08:50 AM
#29
Registered User
Grounding makes a huge differnce. Just ask the auto guys how their shifting changed after doing a grounding kit.
I understand that people are picking up power with the boost-a-spark, but are you having spark blow-out? Have you tried adjust the gap of the plugs around to see any differences? You should see spark problems showup on the dyno (well maybe not a non-inertia dyno).
Cars running 30+ psi on here don't have these problems.
Tom
I understand that people are picking up power with the boost-a-spark, but are you having spark blow-out? Have you tried adjust the gap of the plugs around to see any differences? You should see spark problems showup on the dyno (well maybe not a non-inertia dyno).
Cars running 30+ psi on here don't have these problems.
Tom
09-15-2009, 09:11 AM
#30
My personal take on the boost-a-spark is that it does what it's supposed to do but may not be needed. I think Brian's problem may be his particular UTEC unit. I say that because I've read of so many issues with misfires with UTECs. I investigated this a bit and actually logged ignition voltage while on the dyno. I found that the voltage that drives all the coils does drop off over 1 full volt as you approach redline (from 13.3V to exactly 12V or thereabouts). I installed a boost-a-spark and it held the voltage constant to what ever you set it to (base of 13 up to 20V). It did not change with RPM any longer. However, with my Haltech, I got 0 gain on the dyno. There's an in-cabin dial so you can turn it full off to on instantly and did multiple back to back runs with no signficant change. I don't know if it matters, but AFR does go slightly leaner when you turn the voltage up. Not much though. Not sure what it means or if it's significant. You have to be careful with the voltage because the ignition power line that charges the coils also feeds the evap solenoid and the intake cam solenoids for both banks (unless you do some extensive rewiring). I was lazy and just inserted the BAS in the middle of the line and set voltage at 14V. Seems to work fine there. No power gain, but no loss either. I kept it, by the way, to prevent spark blow out with WI (coming soon).
EDIT: I think Alberto also had a positive gain with the HKS DLI unit but at the time I think he also had a UTEC? With his Haltech, I doubt it still serves a purpose but may be helping to prevent spark blowout on his methanol maps.
PS. And I agree with Tom about the grounding wires, for automatics at least. No one at Forged believes me, but they humor me and keep putting the wires back on (well, I keep insisting).
EDIT: I think Alberto also had a positive gain with the HKS DLI unit but at the time I think he also had a UTEC? With his Haltech, I doubt it still serves a purpose but may be helping to prevent spark blowout on his methanol maps.
PS. And I agree with Tom about the grounding wires, for automatics at least. No one at Forged believes me, but they humor me and keep putting the wires back on (well, I keep insisting).
Last edited by rcdash; 09-15-2009 at 09:19 AM.
09-15-2009, 09:26 AM
#32
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I think lots of people need to address their ECU, grounding, and spark plugs/gap first.
The cars running the most boost, thus SHOULD have the hardest time igniting that a/f combo are NOT running boost-a-sparks.
My car doesn't fall on its face at all, all the way to 7200rpm (and thats on stock cams/springs)
tom
The cars running the most boost, thus SHOULD have the hardest time igniting that a/f combo are NOT running boost-a-sparks.
My car doesn't fall on its face at all, all the way to 7200rpm (and thats on stock cams/springs)
tom
09-15-2009, 09:33 AM
#33
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Thats what I used when mine started leaking from both caps. Make sure you check the end cap bolts mine backed out a bit and were only hand tight. My buddy checked his when I mentioned it and his backed out as well. This time I used the black RTV again (I think the grey would make it hard to get the end caps off if there was an issue) I also used blue thread lock this time to help with the bolts backing out. I hope you don't have the issues I did its a PITA.
09-15-2009, 10:34 AM
#34
For reference, Mustang dyno's correct for temperature and humidity. When I dyno'd in August (temp in the 90's) at 14.5 psi, my peak hp weather corrected from an actual hp measurement in the mid 550's up to a weather corrected measurement in the mid 580's. When I ran my last dyno in November (temp in the low to mid 70's) at 17.5 psi, my peak hp corrected from an actual measurement of 609 down to a weather corrected measurement of 603.
Of course, these weather correction factors are general in nature, and may not be 100% accurate accross all vehicles. However, they do provide a general indication of the impact of temp/humidity on the hp numbers.
Also, it shows that if you are dynoing on a particularly hot day, back off the timing and go with a little lower AFR (if using a MAP sensor) to give margine for running on a cold day. On a cold day, more air will be pushed into the motor, which will cause the AFR to increase. That is why a MAF sensor is a better indicator of air flow volume than a MAP sensor. Has anybody yet played with a MAF sensor for an extreme hp (i.e. 650+ whp) build???
Last edited by ttg35fort; 09-15-2009 at 10:42 AM.
09-15-2009, 10:59 AM
#36
If the AFR goes up, that would generally indicate more complete combustion. I'm not sure why your hp did not go up. If you dyno'd on different days or at different times of the day, i.e. at a different temperature and/or different humidity, there will be differences in the dyno readings due to the temp/humidity changes, and this might be enough to mask the small hp gain you were getting from having more complete combustion.
For reference, Mustang dyno's correct for temperature and humidity. When I dyno'd in August (temp in the 90's) at 14.5 psi, my peak hp weather corrected from an actual hp measurement in the mid 550's up to a weather corrected measurement in the mid 580's. When I ran my last dyno in November (temp in the low to mid 70's) at 17.5 psi, my peak hp corrected from an actual measurement of 609 down to a weather corrected measurement of 603.
Of course, these weather correction factors are general in nature, and may not be 100% accurate accross all vehicles. However, they do provide a general indication of the impact of temp/humidity on the hp numbers.
Also, it shows that if you are dynoing on a particularly hot day, back off the timing and go with a little lower AFR (if using a MAP sensor) to give margine for running on a cold day. On a cold day, more air will be pushed into the motor, which will cause the AFR to increase. That is why a MAF sensor is a better indicator of air flow volume than a MAP sensor. Has anybody yet played with a MAF sensor for an extreme hp (i.e. 650+ whp) build???
For reference, Mustang dyno's correct for temperature and humidity. When I dyno'd in August (temp in the 90's) at 14.5 psi, my peak hp weather corrected from an actual hp measurement in the mid 550's up to a weather corrected measurement in the mid 580's. When I ran my last dyno in November (temp in the low to mid 70's) at 17.5 psi, my peak hp corrected from an actual measurement of 609 down to a weather corrected measurement of 603.
Of course, these weather correction factors are general in nature, and may not be 100% accurate accross all vehicles. However, they do provide a general indication of the impact of temp/humidity on the hp numbers.
Also, it shows that if you are dynoing on a particularly hot day, back off the timing and go with a little lower AFR (if using a MAP sensor) to give margine for running on a cold day. On a cold day, more air will be pushed into the motor, which will cause the AFR to increase. That is why a MAF sensor is a better indicator of air flow volume than a MAP sensor. Has anybody yet played with a MAF sensor for an extreme hp (i.e. 650+ whp) build???
I should have noted that the AFRs changed slightly but only at low load/idle only with the BAS. No change under boost. I did runs on a Dynojet with it on and off then on then off. All within 5 mins of each other. All the same curves. The Haltech reads the MAF sensor all the time even though I don't use it. It would be interesting to log MAF and see how it changes relative to MAP, where it maxes out, etc. It would be nice not to have to use all the temperature compensation tables (because they are difficult to dial in perfectly until you run under all the various conditions).
09-15-2009, 12:42 PM
#37
There is this MAF sensor that is rated to over 1000 whp, but I don't know anyone who has tried it:
http://www.350zmod.com/ProductDetail...HPX+VQ35DEMMAF
If anyone has, please post....
http://www.350zmod.com/ProductDetail...HPX+VQ35DEMMAF
If anyone has, please post....
09-15-2009, 12:48 PM
#38
A lot of Osiris users use it for higher than 370whp setups, which is about the limit of the stock MAF...I use it on my Vortech setup....works well, couldn't tell you any more details since I let my tuner do all the work....
There is this MAF sensor that is rated to over 1000 whp, but I don't know anyone who has tried it:
http://www.350zmod.com/ProductDetail...HPX+VQ35DEMMAF
If anyone has, please post....
http://www.350zmod.com/ProductDetail...HPX+VQ35DEMMAF
If anyone has, please post....
