Another Powerlabs DIY and picture diary
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 57
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From: South Carolina
Heres where I start asking for help from the community. I'd like to get some suggestions on what goes where or the best place for all of these tubes and vacuum lines. Its just not covered in the instructions.I've tried calling Powerlabs a few times but they on a different time zone and can never seem to get them to pick up.
1) For the turbo coolant lines, Is the general best place to tap off the throttle body coolant line?
2) Where does the Wastegate top banjo bolt tap to?
3) The air intake tube taps to the upper plenum line right below the throttle body correct?
4)Where is the best place to tap for the map sensor for the utec?
5)I have a bung on the last cold pipe that I have no idea what it goes to, did I miss something stupid?
6) best place to tap the blowoff valve lines?
7) best place to tap for a mechanical boost gauge?
If you can help me answer these Ill gladly take the pictures and update this thread so others can see.
1) For the turbo coolant lines, Is the general best place to tap off the throttle body coolant line?
2) Where does the Wastegate top banjo bolt tap to?
3) The air intake tube taps to the upper plenum line right below the throttle body correct?
4)Where is the best place to tap for the map sensor for the utec?
5)I have a bung on the last cold pipe that I have no idea what it goes to, did I miss something stupid?
6) best place to tap the blowoff valve lines?
7) best place to tap for a mechanical boost gauge?
If you can help me answer these Ill gladly take the pictures and update this thread so others can see.
First off the wastegate is spring loaded, it's tricky but if its lined up correctly and you push hard enough it will settle in place allowing you to use that clamp without having to drill it. When I did mine I had to step back and look at things because at the time I thought there's no way in hell....... but yes, it does fit correctly.
I've had zero issues.
If I remember right it goes to nothing, if you have a boost controller it might end up going to that. I think the other nipple ends up going back to the cold side of the intercooler on the charge pipe.
air intake tube I couldn't remember so I just looked at my car. from what I could see It goes from the tube (where the filter is) and connects under the main charge pipe just up from the blow off valve, it connects with a male to male connector to the old line. that old line runs up behind and into the throttle body or manifold just behind the throttle body.
My map sensor is tied into one of the vacuum lines located under the plastic engine cover, I can't see where it ends up and don't really remember, however any turbo install thread should have that info if you look. or just try googling 350Z map sensor location.
Wideband, I believe they supply you with a bung to cap it off if you choose to not use it.
believe mine runs back into my boost controller, could be wrong its been awhile.
My boost controller uses the same line as the map sensor to read boost. it should work the same for your mechanical boost gauge.
1) For the turbo coolant lines, Is the general best place to tap off the throttle body coolant line?
2) Where does the Wastegate top banjo bolt tap to?
3) The air intake tube taps to the upper plenum line right below the throttle body correct?
4)Where is the best place to tap for the map sensor for the utec?
5)I have a bung on the last cold pipe that I have no idea what it goes to, did I miss something stupid?
6) best place to tap the blowoff valve lines?
7) best place to tap for a mechanical boost gauge?
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: South Carolina
First off the wastegate is spring loaded, it's tricky but if its lined up correctly and you push hard enough it will settle in place allowing you to use that clamp without having to drill it. When I did mine I had to step back and look at things because at the time I thought there's no way in hell....... but yes, it does fit correctly.
-ok, I tried this but it never allowed me to completely close the clamp. I got it really close but I didnt want to put too much strain on bolt, it really seems to be at its fatigue point.
I am assuming that if i dont get it closed all the way I should expect an exhaust leak or boost creep?
I've had zero issues.
-Ok good
If I remember right it goes to nothing, if you have a boost controller it might end up going to that. I think the other nipple ends up going back to the cold side of the intercooler on the charge pipe.
-Re-read the powerlabs instructions, the side banjo bolt is for the 1st cold pipe. From everywhere else I've searched the top bango can be left alone until i add a boost controller. It just didnt seem right to leave and open hole there
air intake tube I couldn't remember so I just looked at my car. from what I could see It goes from the tube (where the filter is) and connects under the main charge pipe just up from the blow off valve, it connects with a male to male connector to the old line. that old line runs up behind and into the throttle body or manifold just behind the throttle body.
- Seems to match up to the instructions that were in the kit (no pictures for it) and the length is just right
My map sensor is tied into one of the vacuum lines located under the plastic engine cover, I can't see where it ends up and don't really remember, however any turbo install thread should have that info if you look. or just try googling 350Z map sensor location.
Here is where I think you mean, I just pulled the normal cover off of it and used the turbo xs line that came with the map sensor
Wideband, I believe they supply you with a bung to cap it off if you choose to not use it.
You mean the wideband goes here? I was under the impression that it was the 3rd o2 bung on the downpipe... The cap pictured here does not fit at all the threads will be stripped if i screw it down. The regular o2 cap that came in the kit wont work here either.
believe mine runs back into my boost controller, could be wrong its been awhile.
-Reread the instructions for the 10th time , it says to tap the throttle body EVAP line, still looking for the best location where
My boost controller uses the same line as the map sensor to read boost. it should work the same for your mechanical boost gauge.
-Looks like the Boost gauge came with a t fitting but nothing to secure the line for boost, just vacuum
-ok, I tried this but it never allowed me to completely close the clamp. I got it really close but I didnt want to put too much strain on bolt, it really seems to be at its fatigue point.
I am assuming that if i dont get it closed all the way I should expect an exhaust leak or boost creep?
I've had zero issues.
-Ok good
If I remember right it goes to nothing, if you have a boost controller it might end up going to that. I think the other nipple ends up going back to the cold side of the intercooler on the charge pipe.
-Re-read the powerlabs instructions, the side banjo bolt is for the 1st cold pipe. From everywhere else I've searched the top bango can be left alone until i add a boost controller. It just didnt seem right to leave and open hole there
air intake tube I couldn't remember so I just looked at my car. from what I could see It goes from the tube (where the filter is) and connects under the main charge pipe just up from the blow off valve, it connects with a male to male connector to the old line. that old line runs up behind and into the throttle body or manifold just behind the throttle body.
- Seems to match up to the instructions that were in the kit (no pictures for it) and the length is just right
My map sensor is tied into one of the vacuum lines located under the plastic engine cover, I can't see where it ends up and don't really remember, however any turbo install thread should have that info if you look. or just try googling 350Z map sensor location.
Here is where I think you mean, I just pulled the normal cover off of it and used the turbo xs line that came with the map sensor
Wideband, I believe they supply you with a bung to cap it off if you choose to not use it.
You mean the wideband goes here? I was under the impression that it was the 3rd o2 bung on the downpipe... The cap pictured here does not fit at all the threads will be stripped if i screw it down. The regular o2 cap that came in the kit wont work here either.
believe mine runs back into my boost controller, could be wrong its been awhile.
-Reread the instructions for the 10th time , it says to tap the throttle body EVAP line, still looking for the best location where
My boost controller uses the same line as the map sensor to read boost. it should work the same for your mechanical boost gauge.
-Looks like the Boost gauge came with a t fitting but nothing to secure the line for boost, just vacuum
I thought he meant on the downpipe, clearly a wideband wouldn't go anywhere outside of the exhaust.
Looking at that picture where the MAFS goes, I just looked at mine and I don't see that bung anywhere. Maybe something they put on the newer kits? I just have one bung on the cold side of the intercooler charge pipe just after the intercooler, and one on the air filter pipe.
Maybe they relocated the one just outside of the intercooler cold side up to the last charge pipe show in that picture. If so, that went to my waste gate.
P.S yes the picture of the map sensor you listed was where mine went, now that I see it, I know thats it.
Looking at that picture where the MAFS goes, I just looked at mine and I don't see that bung anywhere. Maybe something they put on the newer kits? I just have one bung on the cold side of the intercooler charge pipe just after the intercooler, and one on the air filter pipe.
Maybe they relocated the one just outside of the intercooler cold side up to the last charge pipe show in that picture. If so, that went to my waste gate.
P.S yes the picture of the map sensor you listed was where mine went, now that I see it, I know thats it.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 57
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From: South Carolina
Yeah, mine looks almost exactly like yours, I routed it to the wastegate.
The bung on the last cold pipe is here, the supplied charge pipe plug is either threaded wrong or just too big, the O2 plug is also too big. Not sure what goes here
The bung on the last cold pipe is here, the supplied charge pipe plug is either threaded wrong or just too big, the O2 plug is also too big. Not sure what goes here
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: South Carolina
corrected the bung issue, was able to get hold of an intense tech and I was informed that the last cold pipe should be a SAE thread but some pipes were made with the wrong thread size. My pipe was part of that batch unfortunately. The correct thread should be 3/8-18 tapered, apparently mine was tapped to metric. The plug is correct but I had to get a pipe tap to make things work
Had to tap with a 3/8-18 tap
Should be good to now. on to the rest...
Had to tap with a 3/8-18 tap
Should be good to now. on to the rest...
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 57
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From: South Carolina
Blowoff Valve
Now that the charge plug issue is covered, moving to the blowoff valve.
Dont forget the rubber ring/grommet
Test fitting with the piping.
In place with the vacuum line to the throttle body. Per the powerlabs instructions.
Either I lost the t fitting or the kit didnt come with it. Purchased a brass t fitting from advance, seemed to do the job well.
Dont forget the rubber ring/grommet
Test fitting with the piping.
In place with the vacuum line to the throttle body. Per the powerlabs instructions.
Either I lost the t fitting or the kit didnt come with it. Purchased a brass t fitting from advance, seemed to do the job well.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 57
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From: South Carolina
Pillar Gauge install
Another new experience for me
Pulled the factory pillar off
Used a spring loaded grabby thingy to route wires up through the dash. Picture is weird. top of picture is front of car. camera is looking down on windshield
Prying the rubber boot back to run the boost line and wideband
Inside look from the floorboard up.
Pulled the door trim off, then the dead pedal, then the kick panel to expose the fuse box
Used an Add-a-fuse on the mirror fuse, should only come on when the ignition is on.
Pre fitting the gauges in the autometer pillar with the wiring.
View of the stock pillar and the autometer pillar overlay, so far no drilling required, its pretty snug when popped into place.
Boost line and wideband hook up from the boot
Near final view, though i havent snapped everything in yet. Still need to test it once I plug the battery back in.
Heres where I tapped the Boost line and added the map sensor to the front of the upper intake manifold
Pulled the factory pillar off
Used a spring loaded grabby thingy to route wires up through the dash. Picture is weird. top of picture is front of car. camera is looking down on windshield
Prying the rubber boot back to run the boost line and wideband
Inside look from the floorboard up.
Pulled the door trim off, then the dead pedal, then the kick panel to expose the fuse box
Used an Add-a-fuse on the mirror fuse, should only come on when the ignition is on.
Pre fitting the gauges in the autometer pillar with the wiring.
View of the stock pillar and the autometer pillar overlay, so far no drilling required, its pretty snug when popped into place.
Boost line and wideband hook up from the boot
Near final view, though i havent snapped everything in yet. Still need to test it once I plug the battery back in.
Heres where I tapped the Boost line and added the map sensor to the front of the upper intake manifold
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 57
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From: South Carolina
Man, I am so close. 
Its taken me forever to get everything lined up, Delay after delay. Never a slow day at work, but I might just have to call in sick to wrap this up.
Quick to do list.
- Add anti sieze to exhaust components before tightening down bolts
- Go through instructions to make sure I didnt miss anything and check every bolt, nut and screw.
- Add fluids to car
- Preload Turbo with oil
- Load UTEC map
- Go through instructions AGAIN to make sure I didnt miss anything and check every bolt, nut and screw.
- Start car up
- Check for leaks,
- Put bumper, accessories back on
- Schedule tune session
Its taken me forever to get everything lined up, Delay after delay. Never a slow day at work, but I might just have to call in sick to wrap this up. Quick to do list.
- Add anti sieze to exhaust components before tightening down bolts
- Go through instructions to make sure I didnt miss anything and check every bolt, nut and screw.
- Add fluids to car
- Preload Turbo with oil
- Load UTEC map
- Go through instructions AGAIN to make sure I didnt miss anything and check every bolt, nut and screw.
- Start car up
- Check for leaks,
- Put bumper, accessories back on
- Schedule tune session
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: South Carolina
I did just that. And now I am for all normal purposes done!
Car is up and running, with minor work still needing to be done.
My tuner is Chris @ TDCauto.com (free plug) and will be getting the car on Wednesday, he said he'd like to keep it a couple days to make sure everything is good. Im also going to have him go back and check a couple of things for me.
- Pretty sure I have an exhaust leak somewhere, hearing that busy bee sound from under the car.
- Possible vacuum leak, I can hear something on the passenger side upper manifold that just doesnt sound right. Very light hissing.
- double check my piping before the tuning.
- double check the coolant (havent "burped" it yet)
- anything else that i might have missed.
Drove the car down the neighborhood, everything seems to be in place just smells horrible. I believe its the header wrap silicone spray, it really stays in the clothes. There was some light smoke, but per the wrap instructions, thats to be expected.
Heres a quick start up vid
<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/ZHJcbu1CxMA&hl=en&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/ZHJcbu1CxMA&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>
Car is up and running, with minor work still needing to be done.
My tuner is Chris @ TDCauto.com (free plug) and will be getting the car on Wednesday, he said he'd like to keep it a couple days to make sure everything is good. Im also going to have him go back and check a couple of things for me.
- Pretty sure I have an exhaust leak somewhere, hearing that busy bee sound from under the car.
- Possible vacuum leak, I can hear something on the passenger side upper manifold that just doesnt sound right. Very light hissing.
- double check my piping before the tuning.
- double check the coolant (havent "burped" it yet)
- anything else that i might have missed.
Drove the car down the neighborhood, everything seems to be in place just smells horrible. I believe its the header wrap silicone spray, it really stays in the clothes. There was some light smoke, but per the wrap instructions, thats to be expected.
Heres a quick start up vid
<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/ZHJcbu1CxMA&hl=en&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/ZHJcbu1CxMA&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>
Last edited by idanielsan; Oct 17, 2009 at 03:22 PM.
awsome!
after my header wrap my car smoked bad and smelled horrible. It took an entire week before all the smoke stopped then about another week to get the smell out of my garage (just from the car sitting in it).
after my header wrap my car smoked bad and smelled horrible. It took an entire week before all the smoke stopped then about another week to get the smell out of my garage (just from the car sitting in it).
great work dood...
