While I agree, with VQs the rods and piston ringlands will go WELL before the headgaskets.

 

in hein-sight... would it have been easier to have just removed the engine, install what you can, reinstall engine, then button up the remaining tubing? I know it seems like more work to drop the engine, but what u did amazes me that there werent some exhaust leaks. And then getting to those leaks would be a biotch

 

I did my install on my own in my apartments 1 car garage. There's zero reason to remove the engine. If I had to do it again and had a cherry picker I still wouldn't have remove the engine unless I was planing on doing a clutch while at it.

 

^ Don't need to pull. I put mine up on 4 jacks and was able to get under and do what I needed to do. Even installed a clutch/flywheel that way too. Had a tranny jack for that which helped a ton!

 

This thread rocks, very helpful stuff.

 

Yep no need to pull engine.
The fitment is very tight but if you do things in the right order you should be fine. I did have some hissing but my tuner cleaned up my bolts (just tightened them) before the dyno and haven't had any probs since.

 

subscribed...

 

Amazing chronology and photography. You should send this to Powerlabs. A+ write up.

 

Actually pulling the engine would be more of a PITA than helpful. If he put the engine back in and it doesn't fit he has to take everything off and waste time.
Though its hard to get to some area to tighten a screw I think it was a better idea going the way he did so he can make sure what fit where and what not.

 

im installing this kit now...worst instructions in my life..i have to go to this thread to figure everything out!