performance factory used plastic zip ties on my exaust +1 for them

 

Just a quick update, Car is at the tuner.
I decided to go ahead and upgrade the stock clutch and flywheel since I have a strong feeling it wouldnt have lasted long anyway.
After a bit of discussion I decided on the Competition stage 4 clutch and lightened flywheel combo.
Since I have no experience with clutches and didnt want to tackle holding up an entire transmission by myself I decided to let the shop handle it. Maybe next time Ill tackle it and do another write up with pics, but Im just at the point where I want to drive the car.
If anyone is interested ill post up the dyno results and/or driving impressions but Im sure thats been covered a few times already. Thanks for everyones support

 

Please do post up the dyno results.

 

ah, if you installed that turbo then you'll be fine for the clutch swap. that trans isn't too terribly heavy so a single jack under it works fine. Just make sure the car is high on jack stands so you have clearance to get it out.

I'm a little guy (160lbs) and i've pulled mine out twice now by myself.

Also, make sure you do the proper 500 mile break in on that clutch. They have quite a bit of friction material and require a good break in. I had a stage 4 CC before i switched to a twin disk OS giken

 

Nice work man. Its nothing like doing a job yourself. I know how it feels hearing your car start after a big install like this.

 

Car is being driven now. Power is great after 3200. The tuner and mechanic were very helpful and gave me all kinds of advice since I was a turbo virgin.
So far Im happy with the results. I have an idling gremlin that needs to be worked out but the tuner already has a fix in line.




I was really surprised at how quickly the torque comes on at about 3 grand looks to be about 300 ft/lbs

 

Wow! I look pregnant in that pic. Lol.

Definitely a nice setup, and a great job on the install!

 

congrats on the numbers OP

 

got the idea to look at powerlabs just for the hell of it from a thread on Clemsonscc.com

the thread was on your car and the numbers it posted. posted by your tuner..

amazing what a small world the net is.

 

Had same problem with the idle,(your idle and low RPM/Load fuel pressure will be high Stock regulator has hard times with this causing bad idle) has nothing to do with kit. Not entirely. The walbro fuel pump requires that you modify the swirl get on the fuel pump assembly when using larger injectors.

Step 1
Remove assy
Step 2
Locate swirl jet (yellow cheap plastic thing on bottom) see pic 1
step 3
Remove it (careful it breaks easy)
Step 4
Drill it #50 drill bit or 0.070 inch only till you can see the bit from top
Step 5
Put back on don't forget oring

Pictures courtesy of CJmotorsport

 

Regulator modification
If you are install a return fuel system, then skip this entirely This modification is only needed if the OEM regulator is going to remain in place. Return fuel systems eliminate the OEM regulator.

Remove the regulator cap. Remember, its just plastic, dont break it.


Remove the regulator. Just put a screwdriver under the lip and twist, it pops out easy.


Using a 7/64 drill bit, open the regulator outlet orifice. ONLY drill until you make it thru the sheet metal. If you drill past this first layer of sheet metal, you will ruin the part.


Blow the regulator off with compressed air. Making sure both o-rings and the plastic spacer are in place, reinsert the regulator into the housing and reinstall the regulator cap

 

Maybe I missed it, but what psi did you make 376 on?

 

I'm lost, you did enough research to install your own turbo kit. Yet, you never looked at any dyno charts for it?




I think I was the first DIY guy to post a dyno chart.

uncorrected #s.

I think the main difference in our #s is you're tuning on a dyno jet I'm guessing on the stock spring pressure, where I'm running 8.5lbs if I remember right.

 

About the same here as far as power.

 

Thanks! Ill have to give this a try, Currently I put a hole in the throttle body plate (5/32") and that has helped quite a bit. It still modulates up and down about 100 rpm or so. Its more annoying at this point but totally drivable. I'm going to try this and see if that smooths it out any more.

 

I looked at quite a few dynos and had a goal close to your numbers in mind honestly. I focused more on the HP goal since Im a bit of a dyno graph newb.

The correlation between the boost coming on and the torque really sunk in when I drove it and watched the boost gauge rise at those rpms. This is my first time driving a turbo car for more than a few minutes. It all made sense and yet Im still learning alot about trims, how much pressure this turbo actually makes, vs the turbonetics.

 

Its the stock wastegate spring from powerlabs @ 6psi. I was going to go for a little more with a boost controller, but decided to hold off until I can afford a motor build up.

On the same dyno my tuner said he got about 404hp before his stock block 350z popped a head gasket. Better safe than sorry, at least for 20 or so HP, I dont want to risk it.

 

Popped a head gasket?!?! That's probably the first case of a blown stock head gasket on a VQ35 that I've heard of on here. It's almost always a bent or snapped rod or cracked ring lands. The stock head gaskets on these cars are pretty stout.

I ran my DE motor @ 440-460whp (9 and 10psi) for 20K miles without breaking anything and the last thing I was worried about was the head gaskets.

Nice work on the install and I would definitely recommend drilling the swirl jet and possibly installing an external FPR so you can remove the one in the tank and control your fuel pressure.

 

head gaskets pop from detonation.. time for a new tuner

 

I can't believe I have not looked at this. Its me with the Silver/Black STS Z that you met at the shop. One of the best build threads I have seen