so basically i should just throw some meth on top of it and i could see around 600$ before i need to drop coin on dual pumps?

that or a bosch inline is only 200$ so that's not bad. i'd just have to find a place to hard mount it from the tank to that hardline. Not much room in there without routing AN lines around to the back of the tank then back up to the hardline. I'm still weary of a bosch without a surge tank helping out fully.

 

get a fuel pressure gauge if you dont have one and just try it. i think you'll be in the 600s before you need a dual pump. as long as the fuel pressure isnt dropping you are fine

 

Cause there are only like 4 of us that built our fuel systems for anything lol

Tom

 

451 on hal's dyno. At 7700rpms watching my fuel pressure gauge on the regulator it would drop to 10-20psi. idle psi was set to 42. standard 1:1 fpr with a cjm stage 0. 800cc DW injectors.

we figured with the drag from teh supercharger being a "general" 20% that would put me in the range of hp he sees a single walbro run out on his dyno for turbo'ed cars. We just stopped the rev limit to 7500 just in case.

I'm going to wire up a 10g and relay to feed my walbro just for piece of mind since it's cheap to do. Anybody havetips on how to do it with the least hacking possible on that fuel pump plug? and how exatly to get the 10g to connect directly to the fuel pump? just solder it as close to the connector as possible?

 

so has anyone done anything with the 20g's and pushed them????

 

nah, nobody has done anything with the 20g's, they pretty much suck....

 

The 20G's don't suck. Just most people aren't looking to maximize their potential.

I had 18G's and made over 600 whp on pump gas. The limit was the pump gas in a 3.5L motor, not the 18G's. They had room to go. To get the most out of the turbos, you need high octane fuel and/or meth injection (I have a meth injection kit, but it wasn't on-line when we did the dyno). With high octane fuel and/or meth injection, the 20G's will provide serious HP.

I switched to water-cooled turbos for road courses, but for street and 1/4 mi. use, the Greddy's are fine.

 

If I ever get back to giving 2 $hits about my car, I may do legit 20G' and push them. Myself and PFS believe 800whp would be easy after seeing what 2 cars did on small 18G's.

They suck because people that spend money on them dont do the right cams or fuel system, supporting mods, etc or have a $hit tuner, we have yet to see real reults, our community is a bunch of bench racing queers that dont push limits and question those that truly do.

 

i agree 100% ^^
y do the "power adder" and not push it to its full potential?! i dont get it...ugh...

 

 

hopefully i can get some work done early to talk this over with my tuner today w/E85..

 

I was only joking about them sucking lol, I am using 20g's and they are kick ***! I found out that since my last tune and well the whole time I had a boost leak (explains why up top I would run out of steam very drastically and the fact that we could not push it past 22 psi) The past week we have been slowly re tuning the car without any leaks and the results of these things is wicked. The car is making nearly 600ft/tq @ 3500 rpm on low boost Once we are done with tuning it here in the next couple week's I post up a new thread with the changes I made over the winter and final numbers. I am still on stock revup heads & cams so power will still drop off some up top but the way it appears now is these turbos make up quite a bit for the lack of cams and heads.

 

I forget but do you have Greddy kit 20g's or a rework of the original 18g's?

 

The are reworked 18g's that Blouch Performance turbo upgraded. They have ported exhaust housings, 20g compressor wheels, and ported cold sides.

 

Now we finally have some good results with the 20G turbos:

700 whp
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...ags-g35-6.html

1000 whp (although with larger compressor wheels, porting and polishing)
https://my350z.com/forum/shop-builds...modz-350z.html

 

neither of those are 20g's except for the housing. Both have huge wheels to replace the stock 20G wheels.

Thats like comparing a 3071 to 3076. apples to oranges.

 

More results coming from jtgli shortly as well. I got to ride in his Z this weekend with the Mickey Thompson DRs on and it was AMAZING!!!

 

I was aware that the 1000 whp build was upgraded, which I noted in my post. It is my understanding that Meatbag is actually using 18Gs upgraded to 20Gs.

From his thread:

Greddy TD06-18G kit
TD06-20g upgrade

 

here's what he uses. probably pretty similar to Gamer's upgrade

 

I'm going to try max my (genuine) 20G's out this spring. Pulled engine last week and striped the block. The rotating parts is now at my machine shop for balancing. Heads will probably get some more porting at exhaust side.

I've swapped my Eagle rods for Carillo Pro H-beams, which is the main reason for doing this.

I've now got a 3.5 Bar map sensor making Haltech boost limit history. Going to stay w/ stock bore and no Darton's

I had 6200 miles 2010 w/ that build and it was lots of track and drifting at the rev limit. Engine parts was like new, bearings shining w/o wear. Almost sad feeling finding it in such good shape I'm on E85 and that is supposed to be hard on internals like bearings but the ACL's have zero traces of it, maybe due to Motul 300v oil.

I'll for sure update w/ my numbers after tuning

Last week in my garage