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Longevity of full builds, the good the bad

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Old 12-08-2009, 05:53 AM
  #21  
djamps
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Alright if people keep posting skimpy facts a mod should delete them...I think to qualify to post you need at a minimum:

1. Time (months) on built motor
2. Miles on built motor
3. HP, TQ, PSI (all three)
4. Who built the motor (optional)

Last edited by djamps; 12-08-2009 at 05:54 AM.
Old 12-08-2009, 06:01 AM
  #22  
Zivman
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1. Time (months) on built motor
-> built 8/2007, so ~28 months. Car is only driven from April - Oct and stored winters
2. Miles on built motor
-> 8,000
3. HP, TQ, PSI (all three)
->GRD's dyno it pulled 550 hp and 575 tq @ 15.1 psi
4. Who built the motor (optional)
->D&G motors did machine work(local machine shop). Personal mechanic did the assembly, GRD tuned
Old 12-08-2009, 06:06 AM
  #23  
redman333
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Originally Posted by Jay'Z
Fully built/FI since 06, almost 40k miles..

I change my oil every 2k miles
I change my diff fluid every 3k miles
I change my trans fluid every 10k miles
I use Mobil 1 15w50
I use Motul Diff
I use Nissan Oil for trans
I also use Z max every 3 oil changes

Thats my way, everyone is different but it has worked for me..
Is changing the diff fluid every 3k really necessary. Whats the normal recommended changing interval for the diff fluid.
Old 12-08-2009, 06:42 AM
  #24  
Boozt
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Stage 0 built by GTM 8.8:1 compression with high rev springs and retainers on a new block and heads
4 months...1500 miles
STS Turbo with 8psi (current) 10 to 14psi with new tune in Jan
No HP or TQ #'s yet....waiting for tune in Jan
Lost the stock motor with boost at Thunderhill raceway....suspect cause was a failed oil pump>lost a crank rod bearing at track pace>she went boom.

Sill workning out the bugs of the new motor....in the end I will be a happy camper and expect much higher reliability than my stock motor based on heavy amount of track and racing the car sees.
Old 12-08-2009, 07:28 AM
  #25  
Alberto
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Ive had so many little issues, Id have to search my old posts to see what they all have been.

People need to realize listing issues you have had isnt a slap in the face to the shop you went to. All these cars will have some issues at some point. Off the top of my head.

First built motor. Driven hard, considered "abuse" by some, lasted 9000 miles @ mostly 13psi 525whp. Blew headgasket, pistons scuffed cylinder walls, lots of metal in my oil, spewed coolant, lifted heads the whole 9....

Little issues with that build and SETUP and those 9000 miles of driving:

* Car leaked fuel from where the AAM fuel system met the factory system. Driving home from FP my gas guage was moving fast guy yelled at me on the highway to pull over. Gas everywhere, glad it was under the manifold could have been bad. Connection terminated, was put on clamps ansd held up fine after-thank God Sharif had a trailer, heard my cell phone and had a great tech willing to help at 2am. When I added the CJ dual pump I fixed this ghetto rig connection with AN fittings.

* Car smoked like a **** under decel after a 700 mile drive home. Couldnt figure it out, then noticed cheap a$$ non secure line was used for the catch can, and I replaced it with better line and that fixed the issue.

* Car was smoking from under the hood @ WOT, oil burning off the manifolds. Took a few minutes but found a faulty seal at the dipstick was causing it to lift out under boost and spray oil. Got a new disptick, problem solved.

* Clutch fluid leak, slooooooow as *****. Couldnt find it for a while, then suddenly Id be driving and my clutch wouldnt want to disengage and Id find the fluid LOW. SS line had a TINY hole in it, was replaced and no worries since.

* APS TD exhaust (3") rattles on my cross member under car. Needed to be heat wrapped to stop that annoying $hit

* At 4000 miles on motor at ZdayZ I noticed the coolant overflow had been steadily rising and eventually not getting sucked back into the motor. Was a sign of things to come later, was told it was normal at the time.

* Cracked an OG welded Crawford plenum ( I miss it!) at ZdayZ under boost, ended up begging Mike the powdercoater for the raffle plenum to be given away the next day so I could race people, he agreed, and the next night I ended up winning the plenum @ dinner anyways - thanks Mike!

* Oil analysis revealed steady increase of metals in oil, but cannot assume it isnt normal because nobody is willing to share or do their $15 analysis so we have a "norm" for built motors - FAWK YOU GUYS!

* Snapped an axle on the fawking street giving a guy a ride. Snapped on the 1-2 shift FML

New setup, re-built by Forged, new pistons, remachine block, new HG, new EM, new injectors, fans/shroud, new fuel system, added meth and power.

* Tune has never been 100%, weird spot at 2000rpms with the Haltech (prolly the tune) and no matter how you adjust the load site the car bucks at 2000rpms cruising, like a bull having an orgasm

* Transmission started grinding and wouldnt let me pull away smoothly from a light. Clutch felt stupid. $15 throw out bearing fixed it, of course dropping the transmission wasnt $15, FML

* Aftermarket fans and fan shroud was frying the fuses - it happened 3X, and overheated on the ride home. Had the fans rewired with better wiring and fuses.

* Car was leaking oil when I got home from the build pickup. Was an oil line that needed to be snugged down

* Battery tie down missing, battery moving around as I drove, would cut power every once in a while, while driving

* Front bumper/diffuser cracked/fell off almost killed me at 160+mph, lesson learned. Dont cut out center grill and drive fast.

* AAM oil pan + Greddy oil pan = stripped out threads. Have like 4 helicoils in the lower block and now run a spacer and stock pan

* Dont every install SRTI guages, they look nice and match factory but upon pickup the oil temp guage would always be pegged at HIGH/DANGER, the coolant guage would read high, and the oil pressure guage is on crack. All 3 are worthless and were installed and delivered anyway without even being notified that they were junk. Id be better off staring at 3 ****** in my center console-FML

* Again oil analysis sucks more **** than first motor, but I have nothing to compare it too

* Trip to SC and my car overheats like a ****, spewing coolant (EVANS) everywhere, leaving me stranded with no fans working - FAWKING fans have fawked my a$$ time after time and maybe caused damage to the motor. Car is at PFS now...

* Posted about that experience and I actually have an update on the car but that is for another thread. Could be the end of the motor, maybe not...

I know I am missing A TON of little issues that comes with adding soooo many aftermarket parts. This is me being honest and not meant as an insult to any individuals or shops.

Last edited by Alberto; 12-08-2009 at 07:32 AM.
Old 12-08-2009, 08:20 AM
  #26  
thom000001
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Fully Built since Aug of 08, 10K miles on build, 27K miles on car.

Sound Performance Stage 1 shortblock (weisco, pauter, ACL, l19's, HKS gasket)
Sound Performance precision 54mm (journal bearing) twin turbo kit
Sound Performance return fuel (triple in tank walbro 255's, 1000cc inj)
Pro-EFI 48
DXD southbend stage 5 full face clutch
(Stock heads/cams)
All work done by SP

530rwhp 530rwtq @ 14psi
(actually did 546rwhp on GRD's dyno at 14psi)
769rwhp 711rwtq @ 30psi

Mobil 1 10w30 oil changed every 3K miles. Basic oil filter used (nothing fancy)
Burned up a ignition coil recently (think its related to my dad charging the battery though)
Clutch just recently died...not bad though for a $500 clutch that was being over powered for that long.

Tom
Old 12-08-2009, 08:34 AM
  #27  
Glex25
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I'm not built but I have had some of the same issues as Alberto.

Lines that goes on top of the fuel basket to the fuel pressure regulator was leaking gas.
Lines were all dry rotted since it was happening since it was first installed
I had to change all the lines back there.

I had oil smoking coming out of my exhaust on deceleration
that was was fixed with shortening the APS oil return lines

When I installed the CJM Fuel Return system found out my Swirl jet was never modified
per the installation instructions for APS and my fuel pressure would not go lower than 50psi.

Vacuum line on the intake tube was rubbing and created a hole which cause vacuum leaks.

Oil change every 3k
Copper Spark Plugs every 10k
Filter recharged every 6k
Diff oil every 15k
Old 12-08-2009, 09:22 AM
  #28  
BriGuyMax
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Built 6/2007

15K miles

run between 500-550whp on 93/meth (meth just added a couple months ago)

BuiltZMotors longblock w/ APS twin turbo kit


Issues:
Coolant leaks (Pathfinder cooling mod SUCKS), all fixed by re-tightening hose clamps over and over.

Ignition spark problem, fixed w/ Kenne Bell Boost-A-Spark

Multiple broken axles (have DSS pro axles now)

3rd gear engagement ring separated from the main gear (now have PAR upgraded 3rd and 4th gear

Overall I can't really complain, my car has been VERY reliable as far as modified 500+hp cars go.
Old 12-08-2009, 09:24 AM
  #29  
BriGuyMax
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Originally Posted by redman333
Is changing the diff fluid every 3k really necessary. Whats the normal recommended changing interval for the diff fluid.
No, normal interval is 30K

It's not that hard and not expensive to put a quart and a half of new fluid in, so a change interval like that is just for piece of mind.
Old 12-08-2009, 11:17 AM
  #30  
Chris@FsP
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Originally Posted by Alberto
Id be better off staring at 3 ****** in my center console-FML
I'm sorry, but that's some funny shit right there.
Old 12-08-2009, 11:59 AM
  #31  
arizzee
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jwt 530 kit w/440 inj, fcon iS, wiseco, eagle, arp hardware, nismo cams, 8 qt oil capacity, 19 row oil cooler
425 whp, 400 wtq, ~9 psi.
40 months/21,000 AZ miles and numerous road course events.
only issue has been rear main seal leak after track events. stops leaking soon there after (crankcase pressure?)
SGP built/installed/tuned (got in before the fall)

Last edited by arizzee; 12-08-2009 at 12:00 PM.
Old 12-08-2009, 12:02 PM
  #32  
Chris@FsP
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Originally Posted by arizzee
jwt 530 kit w/440 inj, fcon iS, wiseco, eagle, arp hardware, nismo cams, 8 qt oil capacity, 19 row oil cooler
425 whp, 400 wtq, ~9 psi.
40 months/21,000 AZ miles and numerous road course events.
only issue has been rear main seal leak after track events. stops leaking soon there after (crankcase pressure?)
SGP built/installed/tuned (got in before the fall)
How is your PCV system routed? It's possible that boost is pressurizing your crankcase and forcing oil past the seals.
Old 12-08-2009, 12:36 PM
  #33  
350z006
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Would you do it again if you had a choice?

Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
Built 6/2007

Issues:
Coolant leaks (Pathfinder cooling mod SUCKS), all fixed by re-tightening hose clamps over and over.
Old 12-08-2009, 12:40 PM
  #34  
IslandZavage
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this should DEF be a STICKY.. i already see some issues i could prevent with my build going on.
Old 12-08-2009, 12:42 PM
  #35  
IslandZavage
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Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
Issues:
Coolant leaks (Pathfinder cooling mod SUCKS), all fixed by re-tightening hose clamps over and over.
i was about to order the pathfinder cooling mod .. maybe i need to research it more...

Last edited by IslandZavage; 12-08-2009 at 12:58 PM.
Old 12-08-2009, 12:42 PM
  #36  
BriGuyMax
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Originally Posted by 350z006
Would you do it again if you had a choice?
Definitely not. The pathfinder cooling mod adds 4 hose clamp connections that I can think of to the cooling system. Just more stuff to leak.

I would have just gotten my upgraded radiator and been done with it.
Old 12-08-2009, 01:20 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Alberto
First built motor. Driven hard, considered "abuse" by some, lasted 9000 miles @ mostly 13psi 525whp. Blew headgasket, pistons scuffed cylinder walls, lots of metal in my oil, spewed coolant, lifted heads the whole 9....
what gasket were u using? what head studs? what did u do to fix the issue?
Old 12-08-2009, 01:46 PM
  #38  
zman1982
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Awesome responses guys, especially Berto. This can do nothing but help everyone and as some had said this is not a shop bashing thread. The bottom line to people that have brains and have had any experience with a modified car is **** happens. Keep em comin.
Old 12-08-2009, 02:15 PM
  #39  
BrianLG35C
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1. Time (months) on built motor - Built 9/2007, 2.3 years

2. Miles on built motor - 15,000

3. HP, TQ, PSI - GRD's dyno pulled 510 hp and 510 tq @ 14 psi

4. Who built the motor - GTM did basic build (Arias pistons, GTM rods, no headwork, cams or upgraded valvetrain) and GRD installed & tuned.

5. Issues - Nothing major. Replaced APS fuel pump o-ring twice, because of two different fuel leaks. Valvetrain noise a little louder than other built VQ motors I've noticed. Have had no issues with Pathfinder cooling mod.

6. Regrets - Not going with upgraded cams and valvetrain.

Last edited by BrianLG35C; 12-08-2009 at 04:41 PM.
Old 12-08-2009, 02:23 PM
  #40  
BriGuyMax
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Originally Posted by BrianLG35C
1. Time (months) on built motor - Built 9/2007, 2.3 years

2. Miles on built motor - 15,000

3. HP, TQ, PSI - GRD's dyno it pulled 510 hp and 510 tq @ 14 psi

4. Who built the motor - GTM did basic build (Arias pistons, GTM rods, no headwork, cams or upgraded valvetrain) and GRD installed & tuned.

5. Issues - Nothing major. Replaced APS fuel pump o-ring twice, because of two different fuel leaks. Valvetrain noise a little louder than other built VQ motors I've noticed. Have had no issues with Pathfinder cooling mod.

6. Regrets - Not going with upgraded cams and valvetrain.
Good to hear it's still running strong Brian


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