Built Engine Oil report
I've been using the old Rotella T 5w40 for a couple of years and I have great result from them (a little better result vs M1 0W40). I'm thinking of going back to M1 0W40 because my local Pepboys stop selling the old Rotella T 5W40 but instead they are now selling the Rotella T6 5W40. It look the same as the old rotella T 5w40 but I'm no sure if it is as good as the old one. Great that you have done some oil analysis. I think I may have to try it and do my own analysis. It's tempting because the T6 is $5 cheaper (a jug) in Pepboys vs the old T 5w40 in autozone.
I've been using the old Rotella T 5w40 for a couple of years and I have great result from them (a little better result vs M1 0W40). I'm thinking of going back to M1 0W40 because my local Pepboys stop selling the old Rotella T 5W40 but instead they are now selling the Rotella T6 5W40. It look the same as the old rotella T 5w40 but I'm no sure if it is as good as the old one. Great that you have done some oil analysis. I think I may have to try it and do my own analysis. It's tempting because the T6 is $5 cheaper (a jug) in Pepboys vs the old T 5w40 in autozone.
In short. T6 is essentially the same and maybe little bit of an improvement in some respects (shear) the T Synthetic.
Everytime I sent in my oil I got it back with comments like "fawk your Z, kill yourself, and try again"
In all seriousness I always had stupid high metal levels, and they warned me of block (possible metal from bearings) or head gasket failure cuz of small amounts of coolant in the oil.
The car started what I think is rod knock, and Im as close as ever to just parting it out and moving on, just cant deal with it anymore.
In all seriousness I always had stupid high metal levels, and they warned me of block (possible metal from bearings) or head gasket failure cuz of small amounts of coolant in the oil.
The car started what I think is rod knock, and Im as close as ever to just parting it out and moving on, just cant deal with it anymore.
And for anyone thinking Mobil1 is more appropriate in a high stress engine... check out this report from a stage 2 STI down in florida.
Those first two samples are from M1 "New Formula" 5W30 at 3000 and then 2600 miles. Results were pretty sh!tty.
Next is Rotella T Synthetic at 8100 miles... 8100 in a stage 2 car in florida heat. The numbers are VASTLY improved AND the dude's oil consumption was cut by like two thirds.
This is just an example of many of these types of threads over there. These dudes know their oil, and a large percentage of them choose Rotella T Synthetic/now T6 after testing and empirical data from lots and lots of oil analyses has shown it's superiority to oils that are considered by the uninformed to be top notch oils.

The more I read about Rotella T Synth/T6 Synth, the more and more convinced I am that it is one of the best bang for the buck oils out there, and certainly the best bang for the buck from stuff that is easily available.
Those first two samples are from M1 "New Formula" 5W30 at 3000 and then 2600 miles. Results were pretty sh!tty.
Next is Rotella T Synthetic at 8100 miles... 8100 in a stage 2 car in florida heat. The numbers are VASTLY improved AND the dude's oil consumption was cut by like two thirds.
This is just an example of many of these types of threads over there. These dudes know their oil, and a large percentage of them choose Rotella T Synthetic/now T6 after testing and empirical data from lots and lots of oil analyses has shown it's superiority to oils that are considered by the uninformed to be top notch oils.

The more I read about Rotella T Synth/T6 Synth, the more and more convinced I am that it is one of the best bang for the buck oils out there, and certainly the best bang for the buck from stuff that is easily available.
Last edited by Nealoc187; Nov 15, 2010 at 06:11 AM.
Everytime I sent in my oil I got it back with comments like "fawk your Z, kill yourself, and try again"
In all seriousness I always had stupid high metal levels, and they warned me of block (possible metal from bearings) or head gasket failure cuz of small amounts of coolant in the oil.
The car started what I think is rod knock, and Im as close as ever to just parting it out and moving on, just cant deal with it anymore.
In all seriousness I always had stupid high metal levels, and they warned me of block (possible metal from bearings) or head gasket failure cuz of small amounts of coolant in the oil.
The car started what I think is rod knock, and Im as close as ever to just parting it out and moving on, just cant deal with it anymore.
Berto - I expect an advance PM if there is any kind of a part out. My car is on its way to running again, so yours should be broken soon
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