Sup all, attached is my oil analysis for those interested in checking it out. I was not able to find a single post with an oil analisys of a built vq35 so hope this helps, any input will be appreciated.

The aluminum might be a little high, I am just not sure if that is normal for a built motor: Wiseco pistons, eagle rods, acl bearing, stock heads. Anyone know anything about this? Can it be because the engine is still being broken in? (although it has 4-5k miles already)

The high silicone might be due to the fact I have a rear mounted turbo setup, so I am going to upgrade to a better quality filter.

 

Thanks for posting this up. Hope alberto posts his up so we can compare.

 

Here's mine, this is a stock junkyard motor. Somewhere between 65k and 80k on it. I've had it in for about 25k miles (2 years). The oil in this report saw one track day consisting of 120 minutes of lapping sessions in 80 deg temps (***** out, I don't baby it), oil temps up to 275F on my oil temp gauge, 3 trips to the drag strip (probably 30 passes total), and about 4500 miles of street driving. The motor itself has 6 track days that I can think of, 120 minutes of lapping each day (6 sessions 20 minutes each), and probably 125 1/4 mile passes.

I personally attribute some of the higher than average iron content to the fact that the motor had quite a bit of flash rust on the valve train and cylinder sleeves when I purchased it, and as such probably got a little bit scored up when I was first trying to turn the motor over by hand.

 

MANY samples below, from my original motor to my rebuild with Forged exclusively, and you can see how it started well and has gotten WORSE. As you can see, my metal content FAR exceeds everyones here. It has to be the iron sleeves or improper machining...


edit-fawk this crap the file size exceeds the attachment limit, and my photobucket wont upload .pdf files

give me a few mins to post

 

As promised.... just came in yesterday.

Oil Analysis.pdf

If anyone has any comments or insight that is great. Also, the 3/25/09 and 5/16/09 analysis was done on the pervious motor. The 7/10/09 analysis was sent out after that motor spun a main bearing, so there should be a bit of comparison between healthy (far left column) and the fail motor.

 

I'm surprised they didn't mention the antifreeze in the writeup? I would think any amount of antifreeze in the oil is something to look into.

 

Hey guys, I did my 2nd oil analysis. I was anxiously waiting for this one as I did alot of racing at the track as well as a good amount of highway runs. Everything looks great.

 

I always wondered why the numbers aren't normalized per mile of use. I would expect an engine that has 1 ppm of a metal at 1k miles to have 2ppm at 2k miles.

My PDF is below - the miles are screwy because sometimes I reported miles on the built motor vs the odometer - motor was built at 24k miles or thereabouts so u can figure it out. The first oil report in 6/08 was after the oil filter blew off at the airstrip event and I actually had 1k miles on the oil, not 6 (on the German Castrol 5W-40 I think). Notice the high moly levels with Motul 300v in early 2009. I have switched to Mobil 1 0W40 and I think the bearing wear is slightly less...

 

I use mobil1 0w40 now as well Im glad to see you have graphs to prove its worth, I like it so far.

 

am i late to some breaking news?.....didn't mobil 1 spend the last 2 years getting ***** slapped by every competitor out there?

 

Apparently this particular formula (0W-40 european?), is still a true synthetic and the UOA analysis is better than other mobil 1 oils.

 

+2 on this, running the same oil now, I will have a chance to compare to the Motul at my next oil change.

 

I stopped paying attention to mobil 1 when they bombed the sequence IVA test,i felt they could not be trusted and lost my business forever.Is the "european formula" a reaction to the bad press or are we just less deserving in the americas?

 

The higher the moly the worse it is? I still have not mastered reading these reports, I go by their comments lol.

btw guys although the report says it, forgot to mention I am using Rotella T6 synthetic oil.

 

The molybdenum is a lubricant present in very high quantity in Motul oils. It's neither good nor bad, just an additive. I cannot speak to Mobil's decision to covertly change base stock in most of their formulas except for a few... All I know is that our sticky oil thread shows Mobil 1 0W40 and Rotella T-syn with better than average results compared to all the rest and my own UOA support that, so...

 

yes for every other weight...

that is what the rep at mobil one who frank from hills garage talked to said and teh analysis' have backed this up.

its a different blend that was made for the "european engines" so especially in FI it is great for our engines.

Im still learning too

See someone can read the charts to show the proof

 

the problem with changing the oil a few times is that you didnt have enough logs on 1 single type of oil to see the effects from the mile syoua dd on the engine....id say 4 samples on same type of oil and then we can bulid real trends...if oil gets changed i am not sure its proving that its getting "better", but it might rather be a difference in composition from the different oil brands.

+1, moly is also used to remove sulfurs from liquid fuels in the petroleum refining process...so part of it could be byproduct 2

 

Wanted to post my latest oil report: I dont know if I should be worried about the chrome, I dont know what I should do different to prevent premature ring wear, any suggestions? I read that high chrom can also mean poor air filtering, which I have to admit, having a rear mount turbo setup, its hard to keep that filter clean (K&N) and I dont do it often enough.

 

here is mine from 25k miles on built engine with darton sleeves.

One conclusion is that I am using shitty oil, so that will change at next oil change, the fuel readings were higher but still under the limit as it had been running really rich due to bad map sensor and the sample was taken on a cold engine just started to moved into bay, so hopefully that will change

 

I've been using the old Rotella T 5w40 for a couple of years and I have great result from them (a little better result vs M1 0W40). I'm thinking of going back to M1 0W40 because my local Pepboys stop selling the old Rotella T 5W40 but instead they are now selling the Rotella T6 5W40. It look the same as the old rotella T 5w40 but I'm no sure if it is as good as the old one. Great that you have done some oil analysis. I think I may have to try it and do my own analysis. It's tempting because the T6 is $5 cheaper (a jug) in Pepboys vs the old T 5w40 in autozone.