Speqz

I recently had my engine changed with a used motor due to hydro lock. Ever since I have had the car back from the shop it has had a major smoking/overheating problem. I have a few questions about how to determine the cause of this if it is simple before taking it to another shop.

The shop that performed the work cut A LOT of corners which I am in the process of slowly fixing but, I can not seem to find why I am constantly over heating. The car does smoke (white smoke) it does have a funny smell to it. What does burning coolant smell like after it passes through an engine. At this point I am thinking the car is burning coolant and is causing the over heating issue.

Any thoughts?

Speqz

so I decided to compare some pictures of the turbo install to the PL instructions and I noticed that the center housing for the turbo is installed on the wrong part of the axis. Basically, the inlet for the coolant passage is at the bottom of the turbo and the outlet is at the top. Now, it is my assumption being that the coolant is traveling through the turbo against the flow of gravity that this would cause the coolant to burn through the turbo??? I included some pictures below.

Thanks!


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Speqz

Another questions, the coolant overflow tank, there is a line coming/going to the radiator and another line on the side of the tank. The line on the side of the tank just tappers off to no where. Is this so coolant can drain from the tank in the case of it overflowing??

thom000001

I believe that the pressure side of the oil should be on top on the PL kit...Hal can jump in on that for sure. Then it gravity feed out the bottom back to the sump.

White smoke......well coolant smells sweet when it burns.
But if the oil hookup is backwards, you are getting oil buildup in the cartridge in the turbo bearings, its passing through the seals and burning in the turbo (probably damaging turbo seal btw, or causing major shaft play).


Overheating....prolly have air in the cooling system. Common prob....get the no spill purge funnel to fix that.

Overflow tank....yes, that line is where the fluid will go in event of an overheat. Just gets it down and away from everything.

Edit - Did you hydrolock the motor with the turbo setup installed?

Tom

Speqz

Yes, I did hydro lock the motor with my previous setup. (I was not even in the car). I have an entirely new center section now. I posted pics of what the turbo looked like when it came off.

With air in the coolant system would this cause it to over heat randomly? Also the heat does not work in the car. I remember reading about a kit somebody sold on here to purge air from the system. Do you know the name? Can I get these items from home depot? I don't have time to wait to get it from a vendor, my beater just took it final beating so I am down to one car.



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Dynosty

iTrader: (27)

We need better pictures to figure out if the oil supply/drain is routed properly. I wouldn't worry about the direction of coolant flow through the turbo, as it sounds like air pockets are the reason for your problem. Now why are there air pockets... could be one of two things. It was never properly purged (most likely), or blown head gasket(s). The best way to do this inexpensively is with a spill free funnel. Depending where you are, local auto parts stores may or may not have one.

ps. burning coolant smells sweet.

- bigc -

iTrader: (18)

do a google search for 'lisle funnel 24610' to get that spill free funnel

Speqz

thanks guys,

I am going to bleed the system through the bleeder valve in the morning while I search for the lisle funnel locally. Ill get better pics of the oil lines in the morning when there is light outside. Assuming the lines are routed incorrectly, how much damage could a turbo see with about 25-40 miles on it? If my brand new turbo is damaged, heads will roll.

fklentz

iTrader: (5)

What was the condition of the used motor?

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

so from your pic, the water lines are on the top and bottom and the oil lines are on the side.

Thats not optimal as oil my pool slightly, but that would have nothing to do with white smoke.

your water lines are just fine.

you have air pockets in your system if your heat is not working. but like Hal said, if the white smoke doesnt go away after a proper purge, blown headgasket is likely.

Speqz

well after doing the purge process recommended in the FSM there is still white smoke coming from the exhaust and still over heating. I ordered the lisle funnel so I will try it with that to be sure. Would the heat still work if the head gasket were blown? I guess it all depends on where the stoppage is in the coolant pathway. All items are pointing towards a blown head gasket.

If a motor is bench tested for compression. Would a blown head gasket affect the results at all?

Dynosty

iTrader: (27)

^ Define bench testing for compression?

Have you done a compression test and leak down test since installing the motor? If not, that is the first place I would start with this.

Speqz

the motor was sourced from LKQ by the insurance company. They say that they do the test before the motors go up for sale. I did not perform a compression test. Right now I am preparing myself for them telling me the motor was damaged post installation. Which is why I wanted to know if a blown HG would affect the results of a compression test.

Speqz

ok guys problem solved! mass air bubbles in the coolant system it took 10 cycles to get the heat going. After a very spirited drive car holds temp just fine =). Thanks for all your help guys.