Need suggestions on an oil cooler
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...lers-look.html
look at the posts at the end of page 2. I'll also go update the first page.
ours is 20x1.5mm
8an line is needed min
you don't need the bsn fitting, you just need an 8an straight cut oring fitting for the mocal sandwich plate.
They have non-thermo full kits for 180$ and thermo kits for 240$ with HUGE coolers. I think its only 45$ more for an even bigger kit. The small one is 5x11 and the large cooler is 11x11. 5x11 is plenty for us. 24 row. 11x11 is 48 row....i think it would actually cause a negative temperature on the oil (i keed i keed)
look at the posts at the end of page 2. I'll also go update the first page.
ours is 20x1.5mm
8an line is needed min
you don't need the bsn fitting, you just need an 8an straight cut oring fitting for the mocal sandwich plate.
They have non-thermo full kits for 180$ and thermo kits for 240$ with HUGE coolers. I think its only 45$ more for an even bigger kit. The small one is 5x11 and the large cooler is 11x11. 5x11 is plenty for us. 24 row. 11x11 is 48 row....i think it would actually cause a negative temperature on the oil (i keed i keed)
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...lers-look.html
look at the posts at the end of page 2. I'll also go update the first page.
ours is 20x1.5mm
8an line is needed min
you don't need the bsn fitting, you just need an 8an straight cut oring fitting for the mocal sandwich plate.
They have non-thermo full kits for 180$ and thermo kits for 240$ with HUGE coolers. I think its only 45$ more for an even bigger kit. The small one is 5x11 and the large cooler is 11x11. 5x11 is plenty for us. 24 row. 11x11 is 48 row....i think it would actually cause a negative temperature on the oil (i keed i keed)
look at the posts at the end of page 2. I'll also go update the first page.
ours is 20x1.5mm
8an line is needed min
you don't need the bsn fitting, you just need an 8an straight cut oring fitting for the mocal sandwich plate.
They have non-thermo full kits for 180$ and thermo kits for 240$ with HUGE coolers. I think its only 45$ more for an even bigger kit. The small one is 5x11 and the large cooler is 11x11. 5x11 is plenty for us. 24 row. 11x11 is 48 row....i think it would actually cause a negative temperature on the oil (i keed i keed)
Hey Binder,
Be careful with the bargin lines. I'm not saying don't try them, just saying be aware of the risk/reward aspect. I had some Mishimoto lines that leaked at almost every fitting. I switched over to build-it-yourself setup with Summit lines and Summit hose ends and they worked perfect. However with that said for that price, it may be worth the gamble.
Here's the lines and hose ends I went with...
hmm, i'm not quite sure how a crimped line would leak unless they were REALLY crappy lines.
If you look at common crimped line connectors people buy they are outstanding. Every brake line (even SS brakelines on racebikes) for sport bikes (crotch rockets for the layperson) is a crimped line. They hold tremendous pressure and i've never had one of those leak.
Weird thing is, i know a lot of people on here change out the greddy banjo bolt style oil lines because they leak and banjo bolt type connectors are supposed to be "inferior" but again, used on race bike braking systems with way more pressure than an oil return with no leaking. It blows my mind how those can leak also since i would consider a banjo bolt for brake lines one of the most leak free connections i have used.
If you look at common crimped line connectors people buy they are outstanding. Every brake line (even SS brakelines on racebikes) for sport bikes (crotch rockets for the layperson) is a crimped line. They hold tremendous pressure and i've never had one of those leak.
Weird thing is, i know a lot of people on here change out the greddy banjo bolt style oil lines because they leak and banjo bolt type connectors are supposed to be "inferior" but again, used on race bike braking systems with way more pressure than an oil return with no leaking. It blows my mind how those can leak also since i would consider a banjo bolt for brake lines one of the most leak free connections i have used.
oh, btw, i too, have summit lines.
and oddly enough, my earl's oil cooler that i ordered from amazon came in. The part number stamped on it says it should be -8an fittings which is also what my invoice says, but it's a -10an. So now i have to order new fittings for this thing *sigh*
i guess earl's stamped the wrong part number on it.
and oddly enough, my earl's oil cooler that i ordered from amazon came in. The part number stamped on it says it should be -8an fittings which is also what my invoice says, but it's a -10an. So now i have to order new fittings for this thing *sigh*
i guess earl's stamped the wrong part number on it.
What sandwich plate are you guys using? The one I have only has 4 ports small enough to run my oil feed line to my Vortech. I want to run an oil cooler now, so I need the proper plate for that. Is the feed line for the blower 1/8 or 1/4? I can't remember. Thanks
nah, not a packing error at all! The part number STAMPED onto the cooler by earl's is incorrect. They stamped the 8an part number on a 10an cooler. This one was on sale for 1/3 of the price so i'm def not returning it. I'm just gonna get 10an to 8an fittings for the cooler. Problem solved. it'll take summit about 2 days to get me the new fittings. btw, i only paid 35$ shipped for the cooler! it was a steal so i couldn't pass it up. It was a low stock sale and they are gone now.
mocal thermostat switch. go 3 or so posts up and go to MY post and look at the links. I outlined about everything you should need to make a cheap, reliable oil cooler. Sandwich plate was a little expensive since it was mocal but it's worth it.
Ditto, it seems to be a worth-while piece.
So would it be safe to run an oil cooler through a plate like this, and feed the Vortech through one of the side ports?
Would this also cool the oil going to the blower? Also being that I live in South Fla, do I need a thermostatic plate?
Would this also cool the oil going to the blower? Also being that I live in South Fla, do I need a thermostatic plate?
Looks pretty well made, and provided that is the inlet from the cooler it should be fine... but I don't know enough about the FI plumbing to give a valid opinion (merely a guess).
Last edited by Zazz93; May 23, 2010 at 11:06 AM.
So would it be safe to run an oil cooler through a plate like this, and feed the Vortech through one of the side ports?
Attachment 287900
Would this also cool the oil going to the blower? Also being that I live in South Fla, do I need a thermostatic plate?
Attachment 287900
Would this also cool the oil going to the blower? Also being that I live in South Fla, do I need a thermostatic plate?
Ya, that plate will be safe.
You can feed the vortech through one of the side ports as long as it's not a thermostatic plate. Thermo plates will have that shut down when the oil isn't warmed up and that's bad.
Now, depending where the small port is will tell if the vortech gets normal oil or cooled oil. All the oil in your car should be cooler when running a cooler though so no worries there. If that port is on the return side then the vortech WILL get oil right after it passes through the cooler.
About needing a thermo kit. I'm not sure about south florida, but i know over the winter this last year my brother had temps down in teh 40's in daytona. I know up here in indiana my oil temps stay about 120-130 on the highway WITHOUT an oil cooler so it would be even lower if i had an open oil cooler (when the outside temp's are down in the 40's).
So if you get cold nights in the winter and still drive your car i would recommend a thermostat on there. If you are ok with 100 degree oil temps in the winters at night then no need for them.
basically anywhere here in the US that has temps below 60 degrees AT ANY POINT and you will be driving your car you should probably have a thermostat. So pretty much every street driven vehicle. I guess you could also just put some cardboard over your cooler in teh winter if you wanted. That should work.
mine are 180-190 cruising in the summer but they are down to 120's in the winter (of course before it snows, car doesn't go out in the snow)
you'd be surprised what 50 degrees at night will do to oil temps.
just thought i'd add this in there too. Key west says averages in the winter months in the 60's. So that's quite a bit further down than mainland florida.
and
" In February 2010, the USDA declared that 59 (out of 67) Florida counties were "primary natural disaster areas." This happened when the temperature falls below 28 degrees for 4 hours, where crops are being grown."
Krol, Jenet (19 February 2010). "USDA declares Brevard County primary disaster area". Fort Pierce, Florida: Hometown News:The Beaches. pp. A4. http://www.myhometownnews.net/index.php?id=66890.
28 degrees is pretty cold....
and
" In February 2010, the USDA declared that 59 (out of 67) Florida counties were "primary natural disaster areas." This happened when the temperature falls below 28 degrees for 4 hours, where crops are being grown."
Krol, Jenet (19 February 2010). "USDA declares Brevard County primary disaster area". Fort Pierce, Florida: Hometown News:The Beaches. pp. A4. http://www.myhometownnews.net/index.php?id=66890.
28 degrees is pretty cold....
I think the coldest day we had this year was 40, at least for the Ft.Lauderdale area. Also for the 10 days a year we get below 55, I think I'll be ok. I'm more concerned with that brutal heat we get 300 days a year. Know what I mean?
i don't mean this to offend you but you have a misconception on how cooling and thermostat controlled switches work.
Your car still has a thermostat, correct? Your coolant isn't overheating in those high temps because of it right?
The thing with a thermostat, at 160* this starts to open, at 180* it is fully open. Therefore after 180* there is no difference in cooling performance from a thermostat based to a non-thermostat based. So if you're rolling around at 200* then there would be no change at all in those temps by removing that thermostat. Opening a thermostat sooner won't change it either. All it will do is DELAY the onset of the temps. So ya, it'll take longer to get to your normal operating temp of say 190* but it will still get there because that is the point when your car's heat output is matched with the amount of heat the oil can dissipate.
So, the only thing a thermostat does is get you to operating temps quicker and keep you at operating temps in cold weather. That's another thing, you def don't want to be putting your car through it's paces when the oil isn't up to temp. That's just as bad as the oil being too hot. Oil needs to be in a range of operating temps, not just as low as you can get it. If as low as possible was the case then no car would ever have a thermostat to control coolant temps either.
i don't mean this to offend you but you have a misconception on how cooling and thermostat controlled switches work.
Your car still has a thermostat, correct? Your coolant isn't overheating in those high temps because of it right?
The thing with a thermostat, at 160* this starts to open, at 180* it is fully open. Therefore after 180* there is no difference in cooling performance from a thermostat based to a non-thermostat based. So if you're rolling around at 200* then there would be no change at all in those temps by removing that thermostat. Opening a thermostat sooner won't change it either. All it will do is DELAY the onset of the temps. So ya, it'll take longer to get to your normal operating temp of say 190* but it will still get there because that is the point when your car's heat output is matched with the amount of heat the oil can dissipate.
So, the only thing a thermostat does is get you to operating temps quicker and keep you at operating temps in cold weather. That's another thing, you def don't want to be putting your car through it's paces when the oil isn't up to temp. That's just as bad as the oil being too hot. Oil needs to be in a range of operating temps, not just as low as you can get it. If as low as possible was the case then no car would ever have a thermostat to control coolant temps either.
Your car still has a thermostat, correct? Your coolant isn't overheating in those high temps because of it right?
The thing with a thermostat, at 160* this starts to open, at 180* it is fully open. Therefore after 180* there is no difference in cooling performance from a thermostat based to a non-thermostat based. So if you're rolling around at 200* then there would be no change at all in those temps by removing that thermostat. Opening a thermostat sooner won't change it either. All it will do is DELAY the onset of the temps. So ya, it'll take longer to get to your normal operating temp of say 190* but it will still get there because that is the point when your car's heat output is matched with the amount of heat the oil can dissipate.
So, the only thing a thermostat does is get you to operating temps quicker and keep you at operating temps in cold weather. That's another thing, you def don't want to be putting your car through it's paces when the oil isn't up to temp. That's just as bad as the oil being too hot. Oil needs to be in a range of operating temps, not just as low as you can get it. If as low as possible was the case then no car would ever have a thermostat to control coolant temps either.