Wow thats hot..I have the Stillen one, my temps never even got up to 200 in the summer..but your average temp during the summer is probably higher than mine

 

Both of these kits source other manufacturers parts. The most important piece is the cooler itself. Mocal & Setrab are two of the best brands of oil coolers; meanwhile AeroQuip braided hose is an original & one of the best.

My advice is to put together your own kit.

I would suggest:

Mocal oil sandwich adapter

Setrab/Mocal oil cooler - 19 row (minimum)

AeroQuip stainless steel braided hose- will need two pieces (6ft min)

AN fittings

Mocal oil pump(only really required if you are using +10ft of SS braided hose)

 

ok, dumb question probably, but how can i tell if i can fit any of those kits on my SC setup?

got the koyo rad 36mm, and B&M trans oil cooler with an SC-trim (dunno how big is the intercooler that comes with the sc kit).

any ideas?

 

Alot of these kits you can mount anywhere that gets a decent ariflow. I've seen some save space and mount in front of or directly behind radiators and intercoolers. There should be somewhere to mount it.

 

subscribed...

 

you will still have your bumper brace, so you can mount it to that. you could run a 30row and still be fine

 

Whats wrong with the mishmoto one? Looks like it comes with everyhing according to their site.. I have a few of their parts and there good quality pieces. Not expensive

 

I have the Mishimoto kit and would suggest people to steer away from it until it gets updated. I and a few others have had a problem with a whine. I recieved great service from the guy at Mishimoto who propmtly sent me another kit free of charge but the same thing occured. I then heard a rumor that they were creating a new kit with updated pieces. When I called they said there may be one coming but it was not available at that time. So I ended up ordering new lines/fittings and a Mocal thermo adpater (what I believe is the biggest culprit in the kit) and reassembled. Now, the Mishimoto cooler core is attached to the other components and they work great. But I could have done this a little more cost effectively if I started out piecing it together.

 

What is the part number of the mocal t-stat adapter that would be needed?

 

If I remember correctly its this 20 mm part,

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...Sandwich_Plate

Additionally, I do recommend the Mocal Adaptor fittings, they do make it a no brain affair when assembling the pieces leak free.

 

I think im going to build one in the next month or so, anytime I find out I can DIY something like this I just have to jump on it... lol.

 

Good luck, sounds like you're doing the homework and that should make sure it goes together well.

 

+1 on doing this DIY. Aeroquip is great for hoses but pretty expensive. I would use Stainless braided hydraulic hose with the PTFE inner lining (you can buy at most hyd hose shops). Use crimp fittings instead of re-usable fittings. (Big price difference)

 

+++1 for what these guys said. I put together my own kit with an Earl's cooler for far less than those pre-made kits. Its really not hard - just basic plumbing and attaching the cooler to the bumper brace.

Cheston's thread was a big help to me when I put together my kit:
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...56k-pwn3d.html

 

I bought the B-Line oil cooler kit about a year ago for my JWT 350ZTT race car and have had zero problems. They have 2 sizes, both are priced the same at $375. I have the 25 row cooler and it keeps track day oil temps to about 250-260 in hot southern CA.

http://www.blinemotorsports.com/oilcool.html

 

Okay here my advice on it:

I have been *tasked to do oil coolers before and have done some home work on them:

1. Mount on the passenger side of the car for shortest run possible in lines...would stay at about 4-5 foot per line. not in front of rad/intercooler, etc...
2. Keep the oil cooler no lower than the level of the oil filter sandwich.
3. would get an oil cooler and angled lines to where the fittings are on top! -Not on bottom - don't want to hit something on the road or on course that would accidentally break a line off the cooler. oil out everywhere instantly!
4. Nexx is in Texas, he doesn't need a thermostatic oil sandwich adapter...
5. SS lines and quality fittings. Many good suggestion on this thread!
6. minimum AN10 size fittings.
7. Setrab/Mocal oil cooler - 19 row (minimum) - I agree

8. Would purchase a sandwich adapter with a port (usually 1/4 NPT) so that i you can get the added protection of an oil "pressure gauge".

If your on the highway or on a course and run off track, hit a cone, etc and damage your oil cooler and all your oil is dumped then you can have an oil pressure gauge "beeping and flashing" telling you that your out of oil......

Sure thats a rare event - but the addition of lines and fittings means more points of failure........oil pressure gauge on the sandwich adapter tells you pressure right then and there "IF" Nexx's high dollar motor is out of oil.....

small line of protection..........

See the added port on these sandwich adapters:



-J

 

if i remember correctly i already have some sort of sandwich adapter, not sure exactly what for possibly the oil temp gauge? i gotta take a look at that today.

 

cool then you most likely have a free port you can use, just gotta verify what size it is so you can add an oil pressure gauge..

-J

 

^ the advice you posted above is spot on. i'd still recommend he get a thermostatic sandwich plate, however. it gets very cold in dallas from late november through february.

 

But does he drive the car then or is he driving his g37?