My HKS S/C Installation
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As you know, i am running the Tomei V2's. Since you are rev up though, look into SGM longtube headers.
They are expensive (approx $2k USD) but yield the most gains for REVUP models.
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Just wondering, now that there are a few more HKS super chargers up and running, how are your temps going? Are they holding ok or has there been any rises. We are heading into autumn/winter down under so shouldn't be an issue short term!!!! Would be great to hear any comments and what cooling mods if any you have.
Thanks in advance and well done to ITOzann cdoxp800, kelly350Z, jonnylaw, IanP
Thanks in advance and well done to ITOzann cdoxp800, kelly350Z, jonnylaw, IanP
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Thanks guys for your responses, and it just arrived!!! Thanks Robert and Paul at MVP. So a few more bits and pieces and the install will begin.
I'l do a thorough listing soon. My zed is a rev-up.
Again thanks guys.
I'l do a thorough listing soon. My zed is a rev-up.
Again thanks guys.
Last edited by pez1111; 05-10-2010 at 03:40 AM.
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Yep. HKS part number #12001-BN001 HKS GT SUPERCHARGER COMPLETE KIT 2003-2005 NISSAN 350Z. So the fuel management will be redundant as will the 2 additional injectors that fit inside the plenum. DW's 600's and Cosworth Plenum coming.
I don't know if this has been written elsewhere but on the instructions there is a listing for #12001-BN004 - HKS GT SUPERCHARGER PRO KIT 2003-2006. I checked at hksusa, no listing.
I don't know if this has been written elsewhere but on the instructions there is a listing for #12001-BN004 - HKS GT SUPERCHARGER PRO KIT 2003-2006. I checked at hksusa, no listing.
#229
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Ok, so after a good deal of searching/research, all "off-the-shelf" dampened crank pulleys (ATI,Fluidampr) for the VQ are slightly OD (6.610", 6.12"). The only one I found that is stated to be of stock diameter size are Ross Metal Jacket (made out of AU)--as mentioned in this thread.
These are more expensive than the ATI or the Fluidampr (~$550 shipped), and have not heard of one being installed on a VQ35:
http://rossperformanceparts.com/meta...balancers.html
I was willing to try it out, although none are available presently, and won't be for another month or so. I have dyno time scheduled for the end of May.
The problem with OD damper pulleys on a SC setup, is the potential for overspinning the blower and/or throwing it out of its efficiency range.
So is the OEM crank pulley safe on a SC setup on stock block, given the extra load/strain being placed on the crank/bearings due to the SC? Is a dampened pulley really only needed/recommended for a built engine?
If I can't get the Ross unit in time for my tune, my options are either to:
1. Replace the GTM 85mm SC pulley for the HKS 95mm SC pulley and leave the OD ATI crank damper on--this would make the impeller speed 116,838 rpm at 7k.
2. Replace the OD ATI damper with a new OEM crank pulley and leave the GTM 85mm SC pulley on. This would make the impeller speed 113,506 rpm at 7k.
3. Replace the OD ATI damper with a slightly less OD Fluidamper, and replace the GTM 85mm SC pulley for the HKS 95mm SC pulley. This would make the impeller speed 108,265 at 7k rpms.
I was leaning towards option 1, but was concerned over using the OEM pulley with a 400/400 SC setup.. But others are putting down more power with SC and are using the OEM pulley without issue?
I'd like to prolong stock engine life, but if an aftermarket dampened crank pulley isnt really necessary for 400/400 SC, I'd keep the extra few hundered in just using the OEM pulley.
My concern with option 2 is that I am still overspinning the blower by ~6800 rpms at 7k, although this is better than ~20,000 over max limit with current ATI crank pulley and HKS 85mm SC pulley, and I would have a dampened pulley on the crank.
Also, I'm not sure what would effect my boost/power curve more--changing the SC pulley or the crank pulley? Could changing the SC pulley back to larger size negatively effect power more than the crank pulley, since it is closer to the blower?
Option 3 would keep a dampened crank pulley (Fluidampr), but with the larger SC pulley. This keeps the SC impeller speed well within the max limits, but may not be agressive enough and I may lose more power than I want?
thoughts/suggestions?
These are more expensive than the ATI or the Fluidampr (~$550 shipped), and have not heard of one being installed on a VQ35:
http://rossperformanceparts.com/meta...balancers.html
I was willing to try it out, although none are available presently, and won't be for another month or so. I have dyno time scheduled for the end of May.
The problem with OD damper pulleys on a SC setup, is the potential for overspinning the blower and/or throwing it out of its efficiency range.
So is the OEM crank pulley safe on a SC setup on stock block, given the extra load/strain being placed on the crank/bearings due to the SC? Is a dampened pulley really only needed/recommended for a built engine?
If I can't get the Ross unit in time for my tune, my options are either to:
1. Replace the GTM 85mm SC pulley for the HKS 95mm SC pulley and leave the OD ATI crank damper on--this would make the impeller speed 116,838 rpm at 7k.
2. Replace the OD ATI damper with a new OEM crank pulley and leave the GTM 85mm SC pulley on. This would make the impeller speed 113,506 rpm at 7k.
3. Replace the OD ATI damper with a slightly less OD Fluidamper, and replace the GTM 85mm SC pulley for the HKS 95mm SC pulley. This would make the impeller speed 108,265 at 7k rpms.
I was leaning towards option 1, but was concerned over using the OEM pulley with a 400/400 SC setup.. But others are putting down more power with SC and are using the OEM pulley without issue?
I'd like to prolong stock engine life, but if an aftermarket dampened crank pulley isnt really necessary for 400/400 SC, I'd keep the extra few hundered in just using the OEM pulley.
My concern with option 2 is that I am still overspinning the blower by ~6800 rpms at 7k, although this is better than ~20,000 over max limit with current ATI crank pulley and HKS 85mm SC pulley, and I would have a dampened pulley on the crank.
Also, I'm not sure what would effect my boost/power curve more--changing the SC pulley or the crank pulley? Could changing the SC pulley back to larger size negatively effect power more than the crank pulley, since it is closer to the blower?
Option 3 would keep a dampened crank pulley (Fluidampr), but with the larger SC pulley. This keeps the SC impeller speed well within the max limits, but may not be agressive enough and I may lose more power than I want?
thoughts/suggestions?
#230
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^ I did not get into deep discussion with my tuner after we were done with my car @ 10psi(fabricated pulley), he stated " Do not change the crank pulley, it will overworked the blower and it will affect longevity of your internals". At 10 psi, he estimated that after one year, engine failure most likely will happen.
All this information is not accurate at 100%, but I'm not daring to try lol.. I trust his word
All this information is not accurate at 100%, but I'm not daring to try lol.. I trust his word
![thumbup](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif)
Last edited by ITOzann; 05-10-2010 at 03:32 PM.
#231
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^ I did not get into deep discussion with my tuner after we were done with my car @ 10psi(fabricated pulley), he stated " Do not change the crank pulley, it will overworked the blower and it will affect longevity of your internals". At 10 psi, he estimated that after one year, engine failure most likely will happen.
All this information is not accurate at 100%, but I'm not daring to try lol.. I trust his word![thumbup](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif)
All this information is not accurate at 100%, but I'm not daring to try lol.. I trust his word
![thumbup](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif)
![dunno](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/dunno.gif)
I am definetly either swapping out the crank pulley or the SC pulley to get impeller speed (and boost down), to get the blower back in its efficiency range. However, I'm not sure which option would be better in terms of maintaining power and safety.
A knowledgeable forum member recommended swapping out the SC pulley and leaving the ATI crank pulley on because it would be an easier install and since the crank has a lot more belt wrap, I could cut down on slip and even run less belt tension (which is best for the alt/ water pump bearings). This would also leave a dampened crank pulley on (which would do a better job at absorbing damaging crank torsional vibrations than the stock pulley--although, many are of the opinion that the oem crank pulley is sufficient for my application in terms of safety).
If changing the SC pulley, it will start to be over stated limit @ 6600 rpm (110,161)
@ 6700 rpm (111,831)
@ 6800 rpm (113,500)
@ 6900 rpm (115,169)
@ 7000 rpm (116,838)
If changing crank pulley it will start to be over stated limit @ 6800 rpm (110,263)
@ 6900 rpm (111,884)
@ 7000 rpm (113,506)
I know I need to do one of the above, I am just deciding which. Sam@GTM agreed I am overspinning the blower with current setup, and recommened changing either the SC pulley or the crank pulley, but I still have to ask him which would be better for maintaining power while getting the impeller speed down..
#232
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well.. your application might be different. I have in mind tracking the car this full year, and my tuner had that in mind at the moment he made the comments. IMO 10psi would not last long if tracked and abused; even with the right supporting mods.
I dyno'ed the car not so long ago and i got ~346whp on a dynojet. It might be ~380whp on a dynopack just to compare to your car.(stock cats and stock headers).
If you still want to keep your power levels or add more whp
. Just change your crank pulley and do w/m injection ![Smilie](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
BTW, I remember reading somewhere an issue you had.. an oil leak or something like that. What was the case of the issue?
I dyno'ed the car not so long ago and i got ~346whp on a dynojet. It might be ~380whp on a dynopack just to compare to your car.(stock cats and stock headers).
If you still want to keep your power levels or add more whp
![thumbup](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif)
![Smilie](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
BTW, I remember reading somewhere an issue you had.. an oil leak or something like that. What was the case of the issue?
Last edited by ITOzann; 05-10-2010 at 04:23 PM.
#233
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^^It was either SC traction oil, due to overfilling, or blow-by. A new pcv was put in and my catch can routing changed slighly. I have not noticed any oil leak/seap/blow by since.
So are you running 10 psi on your current setup?
With loose belts/leaking Cos plenum, I was about ~395whp/400 lbs.trq on a dynojet (it was ~400whp/415 lbs.trq on the dynapack). Power went up on the dynapack to ~410whp/425 lbs.trq after belt issue was taken care of. So I assume this would be ~400whp/410 lbs. trq on the dynojet. This was at ~12psi. Coworth plenum/Nismo Headers, PE HFC's, Amuse exhaust as breathing mods btw. I have uprev reflash/fcon vpro/and AFK for knock protection.
Either way, I am going to either change the SC pulley or the crank pulley. I am just looking for suggestions on which to do..
So are you running 10 psi on your current setup?
With loose belts/leaking Cos plenum, I was about ~395whp/400 lbs.trq on a dynojet (it was ~400whp/415 lbs.trq on the dynapack). Power went up on the dynapack to ~410whp/425 lbs.trq after belt issue was taken care of. So I assume this would be ~400whp/410 lbs. trq on the dynojet. This was at ~12psi. Coworth plenum/Nismo Headers, PE HFC's, Amuse exhaust as breathing mods btw. I have uprev reflash/fcon vpro/and AFK for knock protection.
Either way, I am going to either change the SC pulley or the crank pulley. I am just looking for suggestions on which to do..
#234
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^^It was either SC traction oil, due to overfilling, or blow-by. A new pcv was put in and my catch can routing changed slighly. I have not noticed any oil leak/seap/blow by since.
So are you running 10 psi on your current setup?
With loose belts/leaking Cos plenum, I was about ~395whp/400 lbs.trq on a dynojet (it was ~400whp/415 lbs.trq on the dynapack). Power went up on the dynapack to ~410whp/425 lbs.trq after belt issue was taken care of. So I assume this would be ~400whp/410 lbs. trq on the dynojet. This was at ~12psi. Coworth plenum/Nismo Headers, PE HFC's, Amuse exhaust as breathing mods btw. I have uprev reflash/fcon vpro/and AFK for knock protection.
Either way, I am going to either change the SC pulley or the crank pulley. I am just looking for suggestions on which to do..
So are you running 10 psi on your current setup?
With loose belts/leaking Cos plenum, I was about ~395whp/400 lbs.trq on a dynojet (it was ~400whp/415 lbs.trq on the dynapack). Power went up on the dynapack to ~410whp/425 lbs.trq after belt issue was taken care of. So I assume this would be ~400whp/410 lbs. trq on the dynojet. This was at ~12psi. Coworth plenum/Nismo Headers, PE HFC's, Amuse exhaust as breathing mods btw. I have uprev reflash/fcon vpro/and AFK for knock protection.
Either way, I am going to either change the SC pulley or the crank pulley. I am just looking for suggestions on which to do..
If I were you I'd run stock crank pulley and meth injection @ 10psi. I think that will maintain the power and add safety =) Gluck with whatever you decide and keep us posted
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Last edited by ITOzann; 05-10-2010 at 05:01 PM.
#235
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Hey guys have a look at this site: http://www.atomicperformanceproducts...balancers.html
These guys have developed Aussie Ford 6 cylinder engines with reliability up to 800rwkw and they know a thing or 2 about the crankshaft torsional vibrations.
Hope this helps with your decision making.
These guys have developed Aussie Ford 6 cylinder engines with reliability up to 800rwkw and they know a thing or 2 about the crankshaft torsional vibrations.
Hope this helps with your decision making.
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WOO HOOOOOOO!!!! ![driving](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/driving.gif)
![driving](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/driving.gif)
![driving](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/driving.gif)
My HKS kit has arrived and installation will start this weekend and then tuned on Monday!!!!
I have a question for you people who went with the DIY install though!
I will be assembling the kit myself, however my tuner will be installing the DW 600 injectors and fuel pump.
My question is, am I able to drive the car to my tuner (approx 20 mins away) and which belt do i disconnect??
Is this possible?
Any pics that you can reference me to would be greatly appreciated!
![driving](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/driving.gif)
![driving](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/driving.gif)
![driving](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/driving.gif)
My HKS kit has arrived and installation will start this weekend and then tuned on Monday!!!!
I have a question for you people who went with the DIY install though!
I will be assembling the kit myself, however my tuner will be installing the DW 600 injectors and fuel pump.
My question is, am I able to drive the car to my tuner (approx 20 mins away) and which belt do i disconnect??
Is this possible?
Any pics that you can reference me to would be greatly appreciated!
Last edited by _ink; 05-11-2010 at 12:29 AM.
#238
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WOO HOOOOOOO!!!! ![driving](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/driving.gif)
![driving](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/driving.gif)
![driving](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/driving.gif)
My HKS kit has arrived and installation will start this weekend and then tuned on Monday!!!!
I have a question for you people who went with the DIY install though!
I will be assembling the kit myself, however my tuner will be installing the DW 600 injectors and fuel pump.
My question is, am I able to drive the car to my tuner (approx 20 mins away) and which belt do i disconnect??
Is this possible?
Any pics that you can reference me to would be greatly appreciated!
![driving](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/driving.gif)
![driving](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/driving.gif)
![driving](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/driving.gif)
My HKS kit has arrived and installation will start this weekend and then tuned on Monday!!!!
I have a question for you people who went with the DIY install though!
I will be assembling the kit myself, however my tuner will be installing the DW 600 injectors and fuel pump.
My question is, am I able to drive the car to my tuner (approx 20 mins away) and which belt do i disconnect??
Is this possible?
Any pics that you can reference me to would be greatly appreciated!
That will not be an issue at all on the that drive. Just don't install the Supercharger belt. The car will be just like stock.
My best tip I can give you:
https://my350z.com/forum/8301122-post99.html
Trim some of the plastic from the radiator cover. It will make install of the Supercharger drive pulley so much easier.
Also just review this thread. Lots of great information in here and great people willing to help you out.
C
Last edited by cdoxp800; 05-11-2010 at 05:00 AM.
#239
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Its just the normal kit. Thanks for your suggestion, i will definately be trimming that shroud.
Are you talking about the belt that is pictured here on top of the trimmed part?
Are you talking about the belt that is pictured here on top of the trimmed part?
![](https://my350z.com/forum/attachments/forced-induction/284245d1271366909-my-hks-s-c-installation-photos-004.jpg)