I just bought a 2005 350z base model two months ago. Anyways after a few weeks I bought a used vortech kit off of g35driver.com I just wanted to post/share my experience thus far. The installed was pretty much a breeze. I however took longer than normal because I was missing a few odds and ends when I got the kit. So I ordered crap as problems came up. Well kit is finally installed. I am very impressed with this kit. Its not neck snapping power, but definately makes the car much more fun to drive. I havent gotten on the car to much yet. I want to wait untill I get my LC1 installed. Fuel pressure seems to start rising right around 4 psi. I seem to be seeing 6 to 7 psi of boost. I also installed some ebay test pipes, and modified my pcv system. Kind of got a burning smell when I get on it. Smells maybe like the rubber hoses going to the catch can are heating up. I dunno. Anyways for anyone looking at this kit definately very fun and very easy to install. So go for it

 

nice, enjoy it.........

 

Thought I would post some pics.

 

sweet i just got mine on my car as well.. im only 19 and this thing to me feels so FAST! its great for me since its my dd.. with the cams i got and the vortech it just ffeels great down in the low end than is just GONE in the upper rpms.. i love it bc it feels like a strong NA car.. wich is what i want

 

Glad you like it. I am having issues since yesterday. I started to have some belt squealing . I cant figure out whats going on. I seem to have the tensioner all the way max out, or at least to the point where I cant turn it anymore. THe belt still seems pretty loose. My tensioner only seems to have about a half inche of adjustment. Was yours like this?

 

Congradulations on the Vortech upgrade. I've had mine installed for 5 years. The squeeling is because the belt is too loose. With a vortech and stock belt layout it will eat up drive belts . Couple mods to help this:

Install a Gates or equivalent solid ribbed belt. The gatorback belts stretch too easily.

Consider a TIMROD belt conversion which requires machining the idler pulley (I have a spare one already machined if interested). This Mod allows increased contact around crankshaft pulley. This allows less tension on belt and prevents stretching.

Installing a GTM idler pulley (which is essentially a mitsubishi timing belt idler). This mod is usually necessary when using a smaller drive pulley.

If you still have the belly pan on consider drilling a 1" hole or larger in the belly pan directly under idler pulley tensioner adjusting screw. This will keep from having to remove belly pan frequently to adjust belts.

 

Get one size smaller belt. Or GTM idler mod.

 

if you have had yours for five years, do you have the updated belt layout? If not, all those problems have been resolved with the new design. No mods are needed to prevent belt slip whatsoever

 

No, already have the TIMROD belt drive and GTM idler pulley mods. I feel more comfortable with my set up for the boost levels I'm going for.

I have a full built long block with stage 3 BC cams, 928 impeller, 2.87 pulley. I hit 12 PSI @ 6800 RPM on the rev limiter. I should be able to make 16 PSI+ @7500 RPM with a retune. I'm holding @7500 RPM to prevent exceeding 60,000 RPM on impeller.

Waiting for my transmission(3 months now) to be repaired. It had <2500 miles with a titan truck conversion and pump went out and burned up all the clutches. The shop will repair it under warranty.

Guess I need to stop thread jacking now.

 

I was making 17psi at 6500 rpms with the stock belt config. no slip. Just sayin..

 

^+1 on the one smaller sized belt. i had issues when i went to the smaller drive pully on the S/C. went and grabed a belt that was about 2 inches shorter and its worked just fine. hope you guys enjoy the S/C's they are a lot of fun from light to light

 

I agree the with the 1 size smaller belt. I still needed the other mods for a 2.87 pulley. Stock pulley a smaller belt will work. I found the smallest belt that barely fit over drive pulleys, than loosened top idler pulley to slip belt over jackshaft pulley, then forced idler pulley back in place and retightened.

 

Well I got my belt squeel taken care of today. I am pretty impressed as it didnt cost me any money. It seems the tensioner has about a full inche of adjustment. I removed the tensioner to see if maybe it was stripped out. Tensioner looked great. I noticed that there is some room for the tensioner to keep going, but is limited to the oval that is cut in the bracket. So I grabbed my die grinder and my carbide bits and went to town. I ended up grinding the tensioner hole down about an 1/8th of an inche. THis gave me about another two turns on the tensioner. The belt is very tight now. Problems solved, and no need to get a new belt or do any mods. Very happy

 

What was your blower setup?