After my built motor/upgraded FI setup I had to ditch my stock radiator/fan shroud for a 36mm mishimoto radiator and a thinner fan setup. What my shop ended up doing was putting two 10" Mishimoto pusher fans in front of the radiator and one 14" puller fan in the back...

The car runs ok when just driving around but in hot socal weather in traffic or when I drive hard into boost (even with water/meth and an oil cooler) the car goes up to ~240-250 deg oil temp...but if you turn the AC on anytime, forget it, it goes even higher towards ~260 deg oil temp and my coolant temp gauge starts creeping towards the top rather quickly....

so I'm having my shop install a flex-a-lite black magic fan (FL-155, 2200 cfm)beside the 14" puller, hopefully to improve cooling performance, because I do need AC, and I do want to track this car, and we all know how much hotter it get when tracking...

It seems pretty obvious, but I wanted to make sure; having pusher fans in front of the radiator will help and not hurt cooling right?

Also, what's the max draw for the wires for the fans? The flex-a-lite draws a good 14 amps all by itself....

 

Check this out:

http://gtmotorsports.com/product.php...cat=426&page=1

These fans work great. I got the same fans w/shround installed at Forged Performance, but I didn't see it on their website. I have a thick Koyo, run Evans, and these fans keep coolant temps under 210 even when tracking. I believe they draw 20 amps each and they sound like a jet engine when full on, but it's not bad if you also use an aftermarket controller:

http://www.frsport.com/DIF-10005-The...r_p_10337.html

 

Nice...I wish I did this the first time...what oil temps do you get tracking with this setup?

 

@ 350z006: Do you have an oil cooler?

Also, that fan setup will work fine, but is overpriced IMO. For a few hundred bucks less you can buy a mishimioto slim fan kit (shroud & two 12" fans) and then swap out the fans for two 14", higher flowing SPAL fans. You can then either sell the stock mishimoto fans or put them behind your cooler(s). Just an option...
hey man, do u have any notes from when you wired up this fan controller? my SPAL fans DO sound like a jet engine when on and I've thought about going with this controller.

 

It's not that hard - the worst part is getting the temp signal. Here is the manual online: http://www.diftech.com/files/DIF%20PWM%20Manual.pdf

I decided to use a spare coolant temp sensor rather than tapping into the stock sensor (so I never looked into that, but I would recommend it for the sake of simplicity). In my case, I had planned on datalogging and had already bought several ATM-2258 units (cheap) for all the temps (trans, oil, coolant), so I just used one of those in the rear hard coolant line. The DIF controller can adjust to 0 to 2.5 volts for the turn on point, so it's just a matter of providing a voltage source to a sensor in line with a drop/current limiting resistor. I have innovate hardware, which provides 5V out, so it was straightforward. But if you need a cheap, efficient 5V source, you can use this: http://www.robotshop.com/Dimension-E...egulato-2.html but this is really tiny so I would recommend this to help the install: http://www.robotshop.com/dimension-v...r-board-1.html (I have bought these in the hopes of getting rid of my innovate gear in lieu of a ProEFI set up but have not tested them personally).

One "problem" is that coolant temps stay so cool that the fans rarely come one, which results in higher oil temps (oil cooler and trans cooler are out in front of the radiator/ac condenser)... With the ProEFI, I could use an ECU trigger if any of the temps I monitor (trans, oil, coolant) goes high. The Haltech only provides one trigger and I use that for methanol failsafe, but I digress...

 

Is there any added cooling efficiency to having a shroud with the fans? My current setup has 2 pusher fans in the front and 1 puller fan (soon to be 2 puller fans) with no shroud...the fans are just bolted on the radiator...

and yes, I do have an oil cooler, albeit a small one...

 

I think the shroud is important. I've never seen a car without one. Intuitively I think the shrould helps to pull air over the entire radiator surface area instead of just where the fan is...

 

^ what he said RE: the shroud.

thanks for the advice regarding the controller. i went through that manual last fall when i upgraded my fans, but decided to use the stock fan controls & modified wiring. I feel more comfortable with the wiring now so I may give the DIF controller a try. my concerns are integration with the OEM coolant temp sensor (I really don't want to add any more sensors or mess with the coolant system anymore - air pockets FTL), tapping into the the A/C wiring, and the different current draws between my fans (one draws 8A; the other draws 17A).

 

You don't need to tap into the AC wiring. Use the LOW speed stock relay output for the DIF AC input and use the HIGH speed stock relay output for the DIF Manual High Speed input (I have this diode isolated with another manual switch that can also activate that high speed operation). You will need to tap into the stock temp sensor, but it's just a matter of figuring what the voltage is where you tap when the coolant is "hot". Then you can set the DIF to that for turn on. If it comes on too soon or too late, you can just adjust from the front dial. The support via e-mail also received an immediate response to a question I had, so you could ask them if they have the calibration chart for a G35 coolant sensor.

 

hmm,what are you using for thr CTS calibration in your haltech then?

 

My coolant temp calibration curve is whatever came with the base map. I have the stock coolant sensor in place - I just don't use it for the fans. I use the autometer 2258 sender for that.

EDIT: Ahhh never mind. Now I see where you're going. Yes, you can use the stock Haltech calibration curve to figure out the voltages if you decide to use the stock coolant temp sensor. So tapping near the ECU should equate to that curve. I figure there has to be a current limiting resistor somewhere in the circuit but I don't know if it's before or after the sensor itself. I guess at the ECU would be a good spot to tap since generally you want to sample the voltage at the point between the current limiting resistor and the variable resistor temp sensor and the signal coming into the ECU must be doing just that. You could check the FSM for the appropriate voltage range also.

 

RC, How do you use the 2258, by resistance or voltage? I ask because I need a temperature sender that I can get 0-5v from as the measurment signal. My Blitz SBCid has an accessory input harness and it can only read voltage, not resistance. Any ideas?

Thanks

 

you run the sensor with a 5V signal. the resistance in the sender changes, hence the voltage changes...

 

^ correct. You need to supply the 5V source signal and a current limiting resistor (just in case you short out or your sender drops to near 0 ohms). My innovate gear provides 5V or you can buy a 5V regulator as I linked to above.

 

okay so if I send the 2258 5v, it will give me a 0-5v output based off resistance to the 5v input at the temp sensor?

Do you guys have a chart with the values?

Thanks!

 

Anyone else using pusher fans?

How about using the x2 SPAL 14 puller fans and maybe 2x 10" SPAL pusher fans ? Overkill or good idea?

Im looking to add extra cooling for lapping days. I do have an oil cooler already.

 

^ very loud!

 

ATM-2258 in degF and ohms
Temperature Resistance
100 1123
120 708
140 460
150 374
190 175
210 123
212 119
220 105
230 89
250 65
280 42
300 32
320 25
340 20

 

Something I wanna share to give you more options is that you can put a thermal activated relay to trigger the fans when your oil temp is reaching X temperature. Basically has a probe that you put into your oil cooler, and it has a **** so you can adjust at what temp you want the relay to trigger, then run that into the fans relay or power (how ever you wanna wire it). I have this on my car with the probe on my radiator so that it can keep the car cooler when in traffic or at the track.

 

nice information, I think the shroud is the way to go, right now I dont have one and having problem with high temps