Took my Vortech G to the dyno...not sure what to think...
05-03-2010, 06:36 PM
#41
it is adjustable, but when u order it you tell them what u want to see for boost and they will send it to u set up and ready to go...say u want 10psi...It will reach 10psi and then if u make more than 10 psi it just bleeds off the boost over 10psi and will continue to hold 10psi but nothing more...in closed loop or cruising it doesnt make any difference as u are not in boost so this will not make any difference in ecu, u just get tuned for the 10psi and area under the curve...It is the same as not having it until it reaches 10psi then it will just bleed off the excess boost u would normally be making above that psi..
Last edited by tylerxfire; 05-03-2010 at 06:45 PM.
05-03-2010, 06:47 PM
#43
i plan to get one and run the 2.87 and bleed off anything more than 11psi pretty soon...I make 10psi right at redline with the 3.12 so im assuming the 2.87 would put me at least 12psi or maybe a little more without bleeding any off which im not down with for stock block..
05-04-2010, 06:46 AM
#44
Registered User
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: CT/NY
Posts: 452
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
it is adjustable, but when u order it you tell them what u want to see for boost and they will send it to u set up and ready to go...say u want 10psi...It will reach 10psi and then if u make more than 10 psi it just bleeds off the boost over 10psi and will continue to hold 10psi but nothing more...in closed loop or cruising it doesnt make any difference as u are not in boost so this will not make any difference in ecu, u just get tuned for the 10psi and area under the curve...It is the same as not having it until it reaches 10psi then it will just bleed off the excess boost u would normally be making above that psi..
05-04-2010, 08:23 AM
#45
its a waste of money.
I've shown plenty of graphs in the past where I've compared boost curves between all sorts of combos. You dont pick up anything significant in the low end.
ALl that valve is doing is creating more heat bc you are running the smaller pulley and not using any of the HP.
just use the proper sized pulley to begin with. your psi doesnt matter one bit. If you are not making ~400 wtrq, you can run a smaller pulley
I've shown plenty of graphs in the past where I've compared boost curves between all sorts of combos. You dont pick up anything significant in the low end.
ALl that valve is doing is creating more heat bc you are running the smaller pulley and not using any of the HP.
just use the proper sized pulley to begin with. your psi doesnt matter one bit. If you are not making ~400 wtrq, you can run a smaller pulley
05-04-2010, 11:48 AM
#46
New Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Bayamon, Puerto Rico
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I bough one of these valves along with a T-Trim kit, an ATI 6.78 crank pulley and a 3.33 blower pulley.
That will put the blower in 55k RPM by 6,600 rpm on stock block so need to bleed the excess boost.
Now just need the time to install and post the results.
That will put the blower in 55k RPM by 6,600 rpm on stock block so need to bleed the excess boost.
Now just need the time to install and post the results.
05-06-2010, 08:37 AM
#49
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 1,942
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm not an expert but I think your running lean at idle and rich at WOT. I would try to get that tuned. I am running 13.5 at idle now and 12.4 WOT after an uprev tune and things are much smoother than before... Before when I was running high 14 at idle, I was actually throwing a lean condition CEL when I was stopped at stop lights for too long. Are you getting any CEL's?
05-06-2010, 08:45 AM
#50
I'm not an expert but I think your running lean at idle and rich at WOT. I would try to get that tuned. I am running 13.5 at idle now and 12.4 WOT after an uprev tune and things are much smoother than before... Before when I was running high 14 at idle, I was actually throwing a lean condition CEL when I was stopped at stop lights for too long. Are you getting any CEL's?
05-06-2010, 09:21 AM
#51
I'm not an expert but I think your running lean at idle and rich at WOT. I would try to get that tuned. I am running 13.5 at idle now and 12.4 WOT after an uprev tune and things are much smoother than before... Before when I was running high 14 at idle, I was actually throwing a lean condition CEL when I was stopped at stop lights for too long. Are you getting any CEL's?
05-10-2010, 09:31 AM
#53
New Member
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: terre haute, IN; STL, MO
Posts: 6,457
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
6 Posts
I'm not an expert but I think your running lean at idle and rich at WOT. I would try to get that tuned. I am running 13.5 at idle now and 12.4 WOT after an uprev tune and things are much smoother than before... Before when I was running high 14 at idle, I was actually throwing a lean condition CEL when I was stopped at stop lights for too long. Are you getting any CEL's?
Thom: that valve i think will fail open since it's spring pressure related. It's a basic check ball design with a spring behind it so if the spring fails then it will be always open.
Your tip in looks a tad lean for being 4000-4500 rpms. I'd like to see what boost you are there. I think it should probab be around 3-4 psi once you got WOT which i would keep down under 12.5, even more close to under 12 for 3psi and above. The o2 sensor shoudn't take 300rpm to catch up. Something is wrong with that. When i stop it my tip in shoots me straight to the proper a/f faster than .1 second (smallest logging resolution i have) and that' definitely not 300 rpm.
I would try to richen those tip in cells just a little and see how that works for you. It's not going to make or break your car but it would be wise to help reduce the slight lean condition. The rest looks good.
05-10-2010, 10:20 PM
#54
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Puerto Rico
Posts: 769
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Keep in mind that the sensor was placed in my tail pipe and that the run was done in 3rd gear which goes up in rpm a bit quicker than 4th.
at 4K I'm at 3.5psi going on to 4psi by 4.5K
at 4K I'm at 3.5psi going on to 4psi by 4.5K
05-11-2010, 10:16 AM
#55
New Member
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: terre haute, IN; STL, MO
Posts: 6,457
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
6 Posts
i could see the lag at tailpipe a little but gearing wouldnt cause lag because my dual haltechs stay right with my afr even when i log a second gear pull and that changes psi and rpm REALLY fast on my build engine
so ya, i would say tailpipe lag would cause some of it, the rest would be tuning the tip-in a little more.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
350Z_Al
Exterior & Interior
133
10-29-2020 07:44 PM
seagrasser
Zs & Gs For Sale
6
10-11-2015 03:27 PM
