it is adjustable, but when u order it you tell them what u want to see for boost and they will send it to u set up and ready to go...say u want 10psi...It will reach 10psi and then if u make more than 10 psi it just bleeds off the boost over 10psi and will continue to hold 10psi but nothing more...in closed loop or cruising it doesnt make any difference as u are not in boost so this will not make any difference in ecu, u just get tuned for the 10psi and area under the curve...It is the same as not having it until it reaches 10psi then it will just bleed off the excess boost u would normally be making above that psi..

 

bet ur ***...lol

 

i plan to get one and run the 2.87 and bleed off anything more than 11psi pretty soon...I make 10psi right at redline with the 3.12 so im assuming the 2.87 would put me at least 12psi or maybe a little more without bleeding any off which im not down with for stock block..

 

Sounds good.. know anyone that has used this already? just wondering how reliable this product is.

 

its a waste of money.

I've shown plenty of graphs in the past where I've compared boost curves between all sorts of combos. You dont pick up anything significant in the low end.

ALl that valve is doing is creating more heat bc you are running the smaller pulley and not using any of the HP.

just use the proper sized pulley to begin with. your psi doesnt matter one bit. If you are not making ~400 wtrq, you can run a smaller pulley

 

I bough one of these valves along with a T-Trim kit, an ATI 6.78 crank pulley and a 3.33 blower pulley.
That will put the blower in 55k RPM by 6,600 rpm on stock block so need to bleed the excess boost.
Now just need the time to install and post the results.

 

Yeah im gonna pass on the BLV for now.. hopefully car should be ready by tomorrow.

 

ya but you are still over spinning your blower past 6600 rpms... so whats the point?

 

I'm not an expert but I think your running lean at idle and rich at WOT. I would try to get that tuned. I am running 13.5 at idle now and 12.4 WOT after an uprev tune and things are much smoother than before... Before when I was running high 14 at idle, I was actually throwing a lean condition CEL when I was stopped at stop lights for too long. Are you getting any CEL's?

 

are you FI? 12.4 is way to lean for FI at WOT... NA is different.

 

dude u must be n/a, n/a is completely different..F/I u wanna idle around 14.6 and at wot u want to be around 11.8

 

My bad

like I said I am not an expert... sorry for the bad info and thanks for correcting me so the right information is out there.

 

14.7 is stoich and that's where idle and cruise should happen. Has nothing to do with being WOT. This dyno doesn't even show idle so i'm not sure wtf you're talking about his idle being lean. 13.5 at idle is stupid rich.

Thom: that valve i think will fail open since it's spring pressure related. It's a basic check ball design with a spring behind it so if the spring fails then it will be always open.

Your tip in looks a tad lean for being 4000-4500 rpms. I'd like to see what boost you are there. I think it should probab be around 3-4 psi once you got WOT which i would keep down under 12.5, even more close to under 12 for 3psi and above. The o2 sensor shoudn't take 300rpm to catch up. Something is wrong with that. When i stop it my tip in shoots me straight to the proper a/f faster than .1 second (smallest logging resolution i have) and that' definitely not 300 rpm.

I would try to richen those tip in cells just a little and see how that works for you. It's not going to make or break your car but it would be wise to help reduce the slight lean condition. The rest looks good.

 

Keep in mind that the sensor was placed in my tail pipe and that the run was done in 3rd gear which goes up in rpm a bit quicker than 4th.

at 4K I'm at 3.5psi going on to 4psi by 4.5K

 

tailpipe would make you leaner than actual also so you prob could dial back those afr anyways.

i could see the lag at tailpipe a little but gearing wouldnt cause lag because my dual haltechs stay right with my afr even when i log a second gear pull and that changes psi and rpm REALLY fast on my build engine

so ya, i would say tailpipe lag would cause some of it, the rest would be tuning the tip-in a little more.