If its smoking after its been sitting, get your self a few inline valves to keep any oil from settling in the turbo, that should help your smoking issue. Otherwise if its smoking when running, you probably need to reduce the flow to the turbo, or open up the outlet.

 

or do like every other low hanging turbo system and have the oil drain into a sump and pump from the sump back to the engine. my sump holds over a quart so the turbos completely drain when the car is off. no smoke

 

well figured out my 'no boost' situation

figured maybe i broke the gauge or twisted the hose so i cranked the air compressor to 20 psi and held it up against the small gauge hose end - 20 psi on the gauge

so then i made some pressure plugs and ran air comp into the tubing - leaked like a seive!

pulled it all out and pressure tested each piece and blah - every other weld has some little bit of tunneled air leak holes running out of it

soooo quite a bit of rewelding in my future

did test the intercooler and that popped a dog food can (which had been tigthened into the coupler) across the garage at 30psi








gauge working..

going to order hose and an oil cooler and just run the engine oil to the rear

t connector from oil filter 1 to cooler other end to turbo - i can't see running ALL the oil back to the turbo? that would really limit flow to rest of engine?

will break out the books again tonite during amazing race

continued thanks for all input!

 

I really hate doing the same pressure test, because I always end up having to fix a bunch of leaks lol, its a good thing but a head ache. I too launched lol, but mine was down the street lol. Side note, dont put that much pressure into the engine, although it looks like you blocked off the piping before the engine, iv always been told to not go over 10psi or so, still not sure why though lol.

 

you won't run ALL the oil to the turbo when you run a T fitting off the oil sending unit (where the oil pressure gauge is).

You don't run the oil pressure from the bypass used for a cooler, that would be disasterous. Just T off from the sending unit like everyone does. Running a sump pump from the rear of the car back to the oil pan is way better than the weird setup you have now.

also, don't forget to change your manual boost controller to match what streetlegendz posted or you'll have some serious over boost problems.

 

Wow, this thread is full of awesome. Let's see some videos already! After everything is ready of course.

 

update

 

maybe just a bead of black silicone/RTV around all the welds?
(tape both sides, brush on silicone, remove tape)

loved this thread. great build for less than the outrageous
prices for other turbo kits

 

But the "outrageously" priced turbo kits don't come with:

 

Gotta love it

 

with the money he saved he could buy
a couple medium priced TIGs which would have helped lots

would have been easier to just braze the intake pipe leaks
-
exhaust leaks would be harder to reTIG now but not impossible

 

updates on this? looked interesting

 

I used to have a Porsche 928 and wanted to setup a rear mount turbo on it. There is no space in the engine bay of that car. If you think a 350z is bad look at a 928. I was going to move my battery, set under the spare tire in the hatch, into a plastic box in the hatch. That was I could run the air filter inside the battery box. Could run the air filter in the spare tire area in the z but how much noise would it cause. Always a odd idea I had for the air filter in a rear mount.

 

The 928 isn't really that much worse than the Z. Just depends what you're willing to move.

 

soooo.....

failed the testing stage

was at sebring friday 12/10 and parts of the car are still there

blew the motor at the end of the long straight going into turn 17

had been doing fine with no traffic rev / shift / rev shift but on it's last lap

i was behind someone and backed off the gas a bit and it stayed in high revs

for too long and i blew out the side of the motor - so apparently was making

some good power to do that, broke and bent rods like bannanas...



still bleeding oil



out comes the carnage



cover this up with duct tape??



to match the alfa pics a couple of posts up



taken apart



the new bits, went with eagle rods this time,
also replaced 1 cylinder's worth of valves



all lined up to go back on

 

they really could have made the timing marks clearer



powered all the bolts on / off then torqued as final step
this saved many hours over just racheting them all off



engine nearly done



put it back in as one unit - took it out as 2 but this saves
alot of work under the car cranking on the engine / tranni bolts
it slide together in about 5 minutes...



going back in - had to pop the intake back off as the throttle plate housing was pressing against the firewall (wasted an hour trying it that way) then it went right in



back in... button it up tommorrow

 

So were you running your turbo kit when this happened? The last I saw on here you were still trying to get that worked out. So I assume you endend up getting it working, what kind of power did you put down? What did you use to tune it?

 

prior to my 'test' at sebring:
once i realized that i was leaking all the boost away i rewelded / leak checked each piece and the fun began,
used my cobb accessport to monitor afr - could only do 2nd / 3rd runs so 4th / 5th were unknown territory - had the accessport zip tied to the dash so i could watch it on the track

used my scangauage hp estimator and that only showed about a 50% hp gain - so i figured i was maxing at ~ 360 whp so engine would be safe - i knew things could go wrong but i thought i would destroy the turbo not the motor

fixed my oil smoke issue by getting a voltage regulator for the oil pump for the turbo / that system worked great - isolated from motor oil - could watch oil temp / pressure and adjust the pressure with the regulator - didn't get the full 8 hour test this time but no more spyhunter smoke clouds either

at sebring:
so was ~10mph faster after each straight - i normally am at 125-130 (indicated/ actual is minus some wheel sizing) and was at 140(indicated) at the end of the straight the lap before - had backed off a bit this lap because i was behind someone so ~135ish when it blew covering rear wheels with oil, some puckering but undies remained clean

there was a very bad knock as i coasted around 17 and into the pits - that knock turned out to be a very bent rod that due to shortening was causing piston to hit crank shaft weights with each revolution - i first had just ordered 1 piston / connecting rod to replace the broken one (plus rings / bearings / 4 valves / oilpan/ gasket set) because the others looked good (while IN the motor) had it together and was spinning it by hand and that knock was still there, so took it all apart and found the bannana rod - figured if 2 of 6 were bad then all needed to be changed

 

Were you controlling or retarding timing?
Becareful next time you tune and make sure you tune it in high gears, way more load/boost/leanAFR in 5th than in 3rd. And being RMT high gears is where the turbo is really screaming.

 

That sucks man. Glad you didnt crash it going that fast with oil on the rear wheels.