Outta curiosity, doesnt seem to be that many people that use that stroker kit.
http://www.briancrower.com/makes/nissan/vq35de.shtml with the 625+ rods


Any particular reason? Says on their website you cant use the piston squirters? Not sure what those do, or how that would affect long term reliability? We are talking about a 1000+whp build.

I know people use simple math to calc the difference in power you can make. Like the 3.8L is 8% more displacement than the 3.5l. Does that really equal 8% more power?

Second inquiry is about cams. So people say the longer duration cams help higher rpm power. Its also said it shifts the power band to the right.

So say your power band is already right shifted alot (5500-8000+). Would bigger cams like the BC3 or the tomei 280s make the power band even further right (6000++) or woudl it just start to make more power at 5500?

Any other experience/opinion?

 

Maybe Larry at SP can chime in....think this is pretty close to what Vlad's sedan is (and it made 600rwhp on pump gas at 12psi, through a TH400 trans on the break in tune!!!)

Tom

 

Ya the 1000+whp community is very small, so not many reports on reliability or various products used... I tried to bump Vlads build, so hopefully some more insight

So start with generic questions and go from there,.

 

The oil squirters are to help cool the piston domes.

I think a stroker kit would do wonders for your power curve

 

Here is a link that describes the effect of cam intanke duration: http://www.tildentechnologies.com/Te...rformance.html

Below is the graph contained therein. (1) stock - 230 degrees seat-to-seat, 200 at 0.050, (2) 3/4 race - 260 seat-to-seat and 220 at 0.050, and (3) full race 270 seat-to-seat and 230 at 0.050. This data appears to be very old and I don't think it takes into account variable cam phasing, but it provides some basic information. Your supposition is correct. Longer duration cams will move your power curve to the right, but provide greater peak hp (based on this data, quite a bit more peak hp). Here is a quote from the web page: "As stated above, a high performance cam will invariably sacrifice low end power and torque for high RPM power. The sacrifice of low end performance is reduced using a quick opening cam."




This is from the summary:

"•The most important cam design parameters are the four timing events or equivalently the advance, intake and exhaust duration and lobe separation angle.
•Once the four timing parameters are established, the cam should be designed for maximum lift
•A quick opening and closing cam will provide better low end performance than one that is slower opening."

Thus, in addition to selecting the appropriate duration for your hp goal, you want a cam that opens quickly and has maximum lift. One caveat here, however. Given two cams with the same duration, generally speaking, the one that has lower lift should be able to rev higher. With high lift cams, the rpm at which the bucket launches off of the cam lobe will occur a little sooner. The matching of the valve springs to the cam profile also comes into play, especially with quick opening cams. (For the engineers out there, think about the Fourier series representation of the spring compression/decompression cycle).

 

the bc stroker kit rocks and squirter delete is + for hp.what goes up must come down and all that oil dropping on the crank creates windage.sucks to be a guy with squirters.....especially if high rpm power is your goal.

 

true, on 'older school' setups, but the ability to map VTC changes this dramatically

keep in mind too that a "big" (whatever that means) cam on a stroked engine behaves like a smaller cam on a non stroked engine

 

I have the C2's now. I just dont want the power band shifting any further to the right (opposite intention of a stroker). I'd just like to make more area under the curve with the powerband I have now.

 

I just looked at your dyno graph. I don't think I would change cams. Longer duration cams will push the power band further to the right, which is opposite of what you want.

What is the A/R on your turbine housings? If you have a large A/R value, a smaller A/R should help to spool faster.

 

Interesting analysis. The horsepower loss aside, the squirters do serve a purpose, especially say in endurance type of racing? The GTM stroker kit is designed to rev to 8k and retains the oil squirters. Do you have experience with the GTM stroker? Can you compare both of these kits?

 

already have t3 with .64. Its obviously a top end car So its either NO2 or stroker

would love to hear any other comparisons between the BC and the GTM kit

 

What TTg35fort is saying is correct if you remain at the same displacement. If you increase your displacement going with "bigger" camshafts will not have the same drastic effect as it would have had you retained the same stock displacement. (I'm basically reiterating what Adam posted earlier). Remember that increasing your displacement will usually bring your power band further "left".

 

Well realistically I need to shift it to the left as much as possible. Guess I will stay with my current cams.

Other thoughts about the BC kit would be great, esp safe rpm limits and whp thats been achieved.

 

I remember a thread a while back, about MRC installing the BC kit. I really don't remember the outcome, but it might be helpful if you could find the it.

 

I wonder if going to a 4.1 will make THAT much of a difference for what you are looking for. Would you be willing to give up peak hp for quicker spool?....listen to Terry

Tom

 

It will only be the 3.8L. Dont wanna do sleeves really.

Cant go any smaller on the AR anyhow so thats not really an option. Cant use quick spool valves wither bc I had to already grind the crossmember support for clearance now. another 1/2" would have the turbos on the road LOL

I've overlayed my powerband with Hals and they are almost the same. If he can go 9.34 with 150hp less and impress the guys at Zdayz with rides in his car, maybe its not so bad afterall.

30-50 dry nitrous shot between 2500 and 4500 rpms is realistically the best answer.

 

Can you expound on what you mean by the statement above I've presented in bold lettering? You won't be sacrificing peak horsepower by increasing displacement.

 

he was referring to run smaller turbine housing which would possibly limit top end power with increased exhaust back pressure

 

^ Ah ok. Thanks for the clarification.

 

not all of the BC kits eliminate the squirters - they offer 2 cranks, one with a longer stroke than the other. The longer stroke version eliminates the squirters, but as mentioned, it's really a non issue. Any machinist worth anything can easily work with it