Ok, I took some pix this morning of the areas I have questions. I was finally able to attach downpipe #1 to dp #2 with the V-clamp but the more I look at it, it seems like the clamp might be alittle too close to hitting/touching the headers. The lowest part of the clamp is what concerns me. I'm afraid the heat from the driverside headers might melt (?) or weaken the clamp or even rub against the header (when the motor fleses/moves). Also, here's a pix of the down pipe #2 next to the tranny...is this okay? Seems like that can cause some rubbing over time. Any input would be great. thanks.

 

still cant believe you swapped your vortech for a PL..

besides the none helpful addage there are plenty of g35 installs with it fitting with enough clearance, all i can say is good luck!

 

I was tired of the jet noise at idle and I was misinformed when I ppurchased the kit 3 months ago that it would ezly make 550whp on pump. At this pt I'm stuck with the kit n will shoot for 20 psi n meth with sp ecut out

 

damn man, good luck!

 

Rotating the clamp so that the t-bolt section is clocked differently will solve any potential for problem #1. You shouldn't have enough flex in the system for the pipe to contact the transmission once everything is tight so that shouldn't be an issue.

 

The clearance is very tight, but as mentioned rotate the clamp.

 

So no one knows if the heat will be an issue for the clamp?

 

I wish it was that ez to put the nut in once I rotate the clamp. ANyone have pic of where they rotate the clamp?

 

I cant confirm the exact materials that you have, but I used to strip down and rebuild F-111s and F-15s and put them back together after x-raying the frames...

same clamps on the planes as those, and please beleive me that 9 turbos couldnt come close to the heat I have seen those clamps hold up to.

Rearrange...not to worry about the clamps...it may take using a dogbone wrench but be careful as you tighten, you may not be able to get it off, hell of a lot faster than an open in... no way youre getting a socket on there..

GL bro!

 

Trust me I know how much it sucked to rotate it, I just had to do it.

 

OP, i have the same kit n GreenGoblin installed it for me. I've got zero issues right now with overheating or the install of the turbo... I guess my only issue would be is when I want big numbers later....

 

I have the powerlab kit with strup headers and had a slight rattle with the v-band and the header flange at the same point in your pic. I weld a small L bend on the downpipe right above the header flange and bolted it with one of the flange exhaust bolts. This allowed alittle more clearance and let the two pipes move together which stops the rattle. The other pipes just nedd to be rotated away from the tranny. Also, you need to header wrap all the hotside pipes in the engine bay or you may get faults AITs at idle and experience rough idle because all the heat raises and affects the MAS just above the downpipe, headers, etc. You also could twist the vband over the header so that the bolt is on the side, this will give you alittle more room. I rotated the whole clamp and came from behind the engine from the passenger side to tighten it. It was a ***** to tighten by myself but can be done. Do it once and never touch it again. LOL A second set of hand will make the job alot easier. I also added an extra exhaust hanger at the rear end of the 3 inch midpipe to stop it from bouncing and causing the downpipe from contacting the header flange. There is alot of weight on the downpipe and their is no exhaust hanger on the front part of the exhaust with this kit. This will help stop rattles and is cheap instance to avoid stress cracks down the road.
Good luck

 

That vband will take tons of heat. Think of the vbands that we use for the turbine of the turbo. Those things take a LOT of heat being right on the turbine.

By the looks of it, if you took the clamp and flipped it 180 so your threads were pointing down the steering shaft so it's pointing directly at the camera in the second pic. The use a deepwell socket to tighten the nut.

just a speculation. You would have to look in there to see if that would fit, then decide if it's worth your time to take it apart to do that. lol