ook, here's the issue. I have dual welded oil drains for a twin turbo setup in my upper oil pan. The drivers side just happens to be in the way of my tubing for my new single turbo setup.

This is a 3/8" outside diameter piece of aluminum tubing welded into the pan. I need it removed for clearance. I cut it down as far as i could and keep it capped off but i need more room. I need to cut it down flush.

Options so far:

cut it, have a mobile welder come weld the hole. great idea but so far haven't found a mobile welder that does aluminum. Gonna check more tomorrow. Also could get very expensive.

thought about cutting the pipe down further and then trying to use a tap to tap threads on the inside of it. Then run an allen head plug into the pipe as far as i can. Grind the the pipe down flat with that allen plug and then seal the threads with silicone, rtv, or whatever.

grind the pipe all the way down so it's just a hole in the block. Use a 3/8" npt tap and tap threads into it. put a plug into it and seal the plug. Issues with this: the pipe is welded at an angle so the hole at the oil pan might be oval shaped nad not perfectly round. big issue if that's the case. Also, wahtever plug i use can't stick out since i need as much room as possible.

next: grind it down and i have a hole, stuff a plastic plug into the hole and then jb welde or silicone around it to seal it.


This area doens't have oil on it all the time. the only time oil would be here is if it sloshes up into the top part of the pan. It's way up high. So it doesn't have to hold pressure or anything, just stay selaed so oil doesn't splash out.

The option of dropping the oil pan is OUT. I'm not trying to remove the lower pan and fix it htat way. Horrible thing to do with the engine in the car and i don't have my hoist to remove the engine.


So help please!

 

cut the tube so it has a tongue on the botttom,fold it up and epoxy it.or cut the tube so you can flatten 4 pieces and fold it like a box.....and epoxy it.

welding on car

 

Jeff, have you thought about cutting it with this:



You could stay nice and close to the oil pan. As far as the hole on the oil pan being oval, I really doubt that. 99.9% chance that it is just drilled with a bit. It would be a waste of time to make it oval, as it would be of no benefit.

if you cut it with a bit of that ube left, you could just stuff it with high temp silicone/rtv and call it a day.

Maybe somebody else will have a better idea.

 

Nothing wrong with welding on a car. If you remove the battery terminals you can weld all you want. I have done it many many times on my car, never had an issue. How do you tink exhaust systems get fabed up?

 

what kind of epoxy? is there a certain type that would work best for filling? That idea doens't sound too bad. I thought about cutting a small round aluminum piece and sticking that over it and gluing it somehow. I just don't know what type or kind of sealant.

well, the reason i say oval is because the tube is angled towards hte rear of the car. so it comes in at an angle which makes me think the hole wouldn't be a perfect circle.

so do you think the high temp silicone would hold? that was my only concern. if it was a crack then yes, since it'sa hole i'm thinking something needs to be in that hole to hold the space.

 

welding an exhaust is alot different than a wet oil pan.....


EDIT:next time you weld exhaust "on car" you might want to disconnect a few chassis grounds as well.

 

use permatex 2 part epoxy,stay away from high temp silicone unless you want it to leak

EDIT:don't plug it,use existing tube folded over the hole .if you cut and flatten it properly it will end up larger than the hole and can't blow out like a plug.if you do good work you can shape it around the old weld and need very little epoxy.

 

this is true.


tell me more about this epoxy you speak of....i need types and where to get it.


edit: i'm too slow. Ok permatex 2 part. Is there special types, like for certain materials used on?

 

thanks go-fast. making it properly cut might be hard since it's a very tight fit in there. About all i was able to do was get my die grinder in there to cut it down. I like your idea and will for sure try it first.


what bout jb stic? http://jbweld.net/products/jbstik.php

i hate jb weld but it's a "kneeable" epoxy that i could use to fill the hole. I could push it in far enough to bond to the inside rim of the hole also. Ive used jb weld on some fasteners for bikes before and they are still holding strong 5 years later so maybe?

 

use permatex two part fast cure epoxy and you'll never look back

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ite...ements-_-2GXV3

 

Have a look at this stuff.

Not sure you can get in there with it, but I found it great.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Swygl...ayer_embedded#!

 

similiar product sold in the states called muggy weld (maybe the same idnk)

 

JB weld, oil, and heat don't mix. There is a very good chance it will crack with heat. I would cut the drain off, tap it for a NPT thread and plug it. With the oil pan off, you should be able to clean it up ok. Can you get a drill in there? Otherwise weld it. I have no experience with permatex, but several bad ones with jb weld.

 

Jeff, id use the epoxy.. I have used it b4.. on the 350z.. where the OEM oil pressure sending unit is.. when removing it a while back.. it snaped on me.. and there was no way I could of taken it out.. so I bought this epoxy... it feels like rubber at first... and then gets rock solid in 30min.. i used that to fill in the hole.. and it has been on with no issues ever since.. about 1 yr.

 

I like the npt tap/allen plug idea myself.

 

gofast, I ordered the permatex. Is it running or wil I be able to frm it and fill slight gaps?


vas, what kind f epoxy? Jb weld epoxy can be kneeded like putty.

 

By far, I think this is the easiest solution, and leak free.

 

hmm, I guess I'll try to find a flat plug and a tap. Unfortunately my tap set is in indiana. Hopefully I can get a drill bit in there. Even with my right angle drill it will be tight.

 

You can cut the drill bit down and resharpen it on a bench grinder. Done that many times.

 

welding would be ideal,tap and plug would be distant second,cast aluminum pan is not going to like pressure pushing sideways,it's probably embrittled from the welding and that tube goes in on an angle,by the time you drill tap and plug you've got a mess in the pan.if the pan was coming off my advise would be different,but given his needs epoxy is fast,clean and efffective.


binder,permatex 2 part epoxy has fairly thick viscosity almost like wet clay,it's not jb weld thick but it's gonna hang on there.if you bought a container you'll get 5 or 6 pre-mix cups i would practice on a some scrap maybe from the hunk you already cut off.it sets up pretty fast (5 min) but don't worry cause it's sandable and you can build coats.

EDIT: btwy i hate jb weld