So after figuring out that my engine is looser than anything (leakdown was worst case 25%) I've decided to basically retire my current motor, yes I could manage the symptoms through the summer but I just can't put up with looking like an old banger because of the oil smoke I'm getting under -ve load, that combined with having to clutch it on any kind of downward incline ...

So, does anyone have experience (either good or bad) with the cossie built short blocks? Given that I only have about 17k on this current motor I really need to find a block that will put up with fairly high whp numbers for 50-60k miles ...

My current plan if the cossie blocks are good is to do a full Cosworth built (block, heads, intake), match it with some decent cams, keep on running 18psi and be done.

I'd like all input but please remember that I'm not a noob or an idiot, thanks.

Colin

 

What is the price for the cosworth stuff? I'm guessing not cheap.

There are proven built setups at this point (stock sleeves), with just the normal forged internals, quality connecting hardware and gaskets, and good machine work and assembly.

Tom

 

GTM has the short blocks for about $8k and heads for about $4k, so yes a little pricey but if it helps to guarentee that I'm not having to fork out the $5kish for labor for another engine swap 2 years down the road it's worth it ...

 

I searched this topic yesterday for about one hour, and did not come up with anything. So I would like to see some feedback on this as well.

I know cosworth is the only builder with a racing background that builds short blocks for the VQ. I would suspect that the motors are some of the best you can get just from looking throught their web site, and things they have done on other platforms.

 

Here's who built my motor for me. HIGHLY experienced guys and not all that expensive honestly.

Im going on 15K with an APS ST at 18psi on a basic shortblock build (Eagle rods, CP Pistons, ACL bearings), just got retuned on Uprev (ditched the Autronic SM4) and running and making power like the day it was put in and started up. I am not easy on my car either when I drive it and its seen a few tracks.

Did you ever get a spec sheet with your motor? Tolerances and balance are very important when building for high horsepower applications and some type of longevity. Few people ever ask for them or actually look at them it seems.

http://www.justiceracingengines.com/index.php

 

Aren't they the one that built Chris aka Cass motor and look where he is at

 

My motor was built by builtzmotors, nuff said ...

 

There is a thread around here somewhere of built motor setups...... but mine is

10k-12k miles so far (don't remember exact amount without going down to look)
Weisco pistons (8.5:1 cr)
Pauter Rods
ACL bearings
HKS headgasket
L19's
revup oil pump
Pro-efi ecu
just recently put in bc stage 3 cams (springs and retainers), and a fluid dampener

old setup (54mm TT stock cams), car made 530rwhp @ 14psi and 769rwhp @ 30psi
New setup....so far makes 655rwhp @ 19psi and 706rwhp @ 22psi.

Car is driven spiritedly.

My recomendations, have a shop that as already done what you want with there own cars BUILD YOUR COMPLETE SETUP. Overbuild your fuel system and oil system (if possible)

Tom

 

I think it is safe to say that all the components that most builders use are of great quality. From pistons to rods, bearings, studs, rings...ect they are all proven quality parts. The only difference between these motors are the builders, and some may know more than others or may have more experience.

I think this is what it all boils down to. In theory all these built motors should last for a long time, but there are far too many that don't. So I think it is very important to chose the best builder.

 

I know some "pro" engine builders who use plastigage to check bearing clearances.

 

You have totally nailed it on the head, you can see my internals in the video below ...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pHOSRNo-XWw

That engine should have lasted forever, I didn't abuse that engine anywhere as badly as some of you guys do but here I am looking at a rebuild only 17k miles down the road.

So, that brings me to another question, how rebuildable would my engine be at this point? Let's assume that the rings are gone but otherwise the engine is good, how much am I looking at to take out, rebuild and re-install? Or do you guys think it would be more prudent to go for a new engine?

 

Given the rest of the history you totally ignored about that car and the build (unrelated to ANY type of machining)....I doubt this is Jim Justice's issue and I will stand by his work as Chris's car is not mine and mine runs like the day it was started.

Here are my build sheets from my motor (post1)...Chris has the same though I've never seen them. https://my350z.com/forum/mid-atlanti...ut-teaser.html I encourage you to compare these specs to others who have posted from different builders.

 

new rings and maybe a cylinder hone is all you need. Absolutely crazy to buy a new motor, unless you rather spend 10g over like 2500$ for an overhaul.

 

I am assuming that when you say $2500 you are not including the labor to take the motor out and put it back in, correct?

I would like to get feedback on cosworth VQ motors though as no
one has really chimed in to this effect.

 

The way I see it, Cosworth is just more pricier for no more benefit. You are definately paying for the name in some cases. That being said though, i am sure you are getting quality.
But I am guessing you won't find much info cause people aren't willing to pony up the $ for something that can be had cheaper that already has results......I think those run-on sentences made sense lol

Tom

 

As I recall there was a guy with screen name "TheMinel" that did a FI build with Cosworth internals. There was also a thread on a Cosworth NA build. That's all I can recall. If you don't have a shop local to you for long term support, I can understand you wanting to go with a company like Cosworth.

 

i am guessing he is talking about the more "real" professional engine builders, and not the ones that work out of their own garage and leaner from youtube, a manual and just looking over someones shoulder.... haha
Its always good to check when you outsource the engine to make sure they keep up with the quality work on a consistant basis.

I think the cosworth is a well put together short block...comes blue printed if i recall, and cosworth has a good reputation as well, and there is probably more consistancy from engine to engine.... but costs more than it should, and the parts are necesarly to envy... but in their view its justified for reliability of workmanship vs other builders.

So IMO if you find a good shop you trust to do the work, they have years of experience, that is a better choice...a s well as keeping the engine build simpler, as that what 90% of build needs...not a super crazy engine where more possibility that thigns can fail occurs, and its jsut adding aftermarkt for the sake of it.

 

Thanks Raj, the shop that I use locally (Cantrell Motorsports) do impeccable work as I have not had to take my car back to them for anything, no leaks, no heating issues ( except when I bent my rear camber links ) ... but they don't build their own engines, however they do build race porsches that win so I'm gonna go round there today and see what they say.

Maybe there is an engine building savant around here

 

^^

this is a good part list for a solid engine that isnt "crazy", and can certainly take all the power you will ever want do.....(realistically lol)

thom:
Weisco pistons (8.5:1 cr)
Pauter Rods
ACL bearings
HKS headgasket
L19's
revup oil pump
just recently put in bc stage 3 cams (springs and retainers)

Make sure you have the fuel and EMS covered too

Id consider the stg2 cams too btw, better midrange...depending on what you look for or on the type of turbo kit too.. Good luck!

 

I'd probably agree on Stage 2's too for anything short of the SP, SFR, or big GTM TT kits (stage 5-6).

I went with stage 3's to be different, and cause I upped to 60mm turbos

Tom