binder

iTrader: (8)

eh, i usually emailed or called him. I didn't PM him too much on here. he always got back to me within a day though. I was really surprised at that due to how busy he is. Very good at getting back to me. If he missed my call he usually called me back within the hour.



if you didn't know that to start with you were lied to. You never go broke on the turbo kit, it's the thousands you have to spend in supporting mods. I laugh at people with mild cars that talk **** about how "oh well if i just went to a larger turbo i'd pull on you". ya right, they mean larger turbo and 5 grand of supporting mods to make that turbo usable.

james12345pt

iTrader: (5)

Can I get an AMEN?! LOL

Mr_pharmD

iTrader: (48)

I meant txt message. I hope he isn't mad at me, lol.

binder

iTrader: (8)

well did you text him over and over like a bish?

I think he was slower at texting me back than calling me. I never texted him but he texted me a few times and i replied with a question and it took a while. He's faster just to call back. he'll get to you though that's for sure. he's great about getting back to people.

phunk

iTrader: (21)

i was MIA over the weekend we got it all sorted out on tuesday

binder

iTrader: (8)

psh, who takes weekends off anyways

binder

iTrader: (8)

pharm, these are the only pics i have so far.

The only wires that will run from the oem harness into the new pump is the yellow and the black w/red stripe.

Then the black w/yellow stripe from the oem harness will go to your relays to turn them on.

I did not use the black ground wire from the oem harness for my relay grounds. I used the same ground for my pumps as i did my relays. The oem black ground wire was too small IMHO to run those relays from.

So basically you only have 3 wires you need from the oem harness: yellow, black w/red and black w/yellow.

Mr_pharmD

iTrader: (48)

I finally got most of the plumbing done but my OEM plugs are different. Which wires need to be spliced? Also will I need to reuse anything from the OEM tank?

phunk

iTrader: (21)

http://cj-motorsports.com/zgtwins.htm

Wiring diagrams there will helpfully assist you. Let me know if you need anything more.

Mr_pharmD

iTrader: (48)

thanks Charles, but what about the sensor? I dont see a pu/w and b/r on my plug.

phunk

iTrader: (21)

Just look at your stock fuel pump and see which pin is which, I would go with that versus wire colors

binder

iTrader: (8)

ya, i'll tear my seat out tonight and look for you. i'm almost certain the level sensor was solid yellow. You don't need to worry about the neg for the sensor because any negative ground will work.

DeatschWerks

iTrader: (1)

Just kinda ran through this thread quickly.

I think so of you on the verge of venturing to dual-pump arena will be interested to know that we are working on a DW in-tank fuel pump in the 300lph range.

Don't have an ETA, other than later this year...

midz350

iTrader: (4)

A 300lph pump is good for what? 650-750whp?


How about drop in 1000cc injectors.

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

why not work on a simple external single pump solution. There are already 2 in tank options and no real external option.

binder

iTrader: (8)

not bad. Too late for those of us already in the twin pump arena.

If someone could have made a basket to hold a bosch 044 intank then that would work great. The problem is making a whole new basket is expensive so the cost difference couldn't be that much to go up to a twin pump.

So did you find a way to fit a 300lph pump in the stock basket to keep cost down?

binder

iTrader: (8)

300 is a 17% increase in flow therefore if you max out a 255 at 550hp then increase fuel 17% you would have "theoretically" a 17% increase in power so 643hp.

The reality of the fact is that it's not linear so if you make it to 550hp on a 255 you'll probably get another 50, MAYBE 75 hp out of it. I doubt it'll be a full 17% increase. In a perfect world without physics then yes, but that's not what we live in. The 300 would probably be best to say you could get upper 500's and maybe break 600 since very few people are breaking 550hp on a single walbro. Some get 520, some get up to 550....each pump can be a huge variation and then there's dyno variation, blah blah.

hks 1000's are full drop in 1000cc injectors. I didn't change a single thing on mine plenum or wiring harness and put 1000's in. I guess rail spacers but even RC's need spacers or washers added.

midz350

iTrader: (4)

I have the hks 1000's and they needed to be machined to fit the VQ rails which would be $1200 for the total price

binder

iTrader: (8)

what?!? mine aren't machined at all.

I have cjm rails now, but i had the hks 1000's right in my oem rails for about a month with no mods except i used some washers to space my rails taller until i got the new rails and spacers from cjm.

and 1200$ for machining is way over priced anyways. It shouldn't cost more than half that for machine work. For even hafl that price you just get cjm or injected rails. 300$ for rails.

either way, something is up if yours dont fit because mine fit perfect. 100% drop in fitment on my oem rails,plenum and harness.

midz350

iTrader: (4)

I meant $1200 for the injectors and the machine work.

BTW I'm using the GTM HR rails.