My T-Trim Tuner Kit Install
Right now I’m in the process of installing my vortech kit with supporting mods, in a 2003 base Z.
This is the a list of some of the mods on the car NA
Stillen TD exhaust
Sprut Headers
Kinetix Cats
Motordyne 5/16 Iso Thermal
K&N Drop in
Unortodox 3 Pulley set
Utec
Blitz Throttle Controller
Stillen Engine Damper
Nismo Radiator Cap
Odysey PC680+ posts
Rays G35 wheels (chromed) with 245/255-35-19 Toyo T1R
25mm spacers R and 20mm F
QUAIFE Limited with 3.9Central FD
Brembo calipers from Track with cross drill and slotted disk and stainless lines
ACT prolite Flywheel /Clutch combo
Stainless Nismo clutch line
Obviously some of these will go out.
271whp Dynojet (lost the copy)
Here is the list of the mods in process.
Vortech Tuner Kit - T-trim + 3.33 pulley
ATI Super Damper crank Pulley - 6.78"
928 Universal Adjustable Boost Limiter Valve (BLV)
Icevex 24x12x4 intercooler
AAM Fuel return system
Dynotune Boost and A/F gages
Walbro 255lph
Deatschwerks 600CC
Utec Tuner reg
TurboXS MAP sensor
NGK 1step colder iridium
Kinetix SSV (already have it years ago)
Two Step / No Lift Shift Control Module - (have it but will install latter)
JWT Oil Pan Spacer
Stillen Oil Cooler
Titek Carbon Radiator Air Guide
Elite Eng. Catch Can
My plan with the combination of the stock 3.33” in the vortech and the 6.78” on the crank is to max the t-trim by redline, have the boost the soonest in the rpm range and to purge the excess boost with the 928 valve. If I need more boost just need to adjust the valve and retune. The other benefit I expect is to have less slippage since there will be more contact area in the belt. Also when it is time to rebuild the engine, will have the required supporting mods already (may be new injectors).
I’m doing it by my self and only time available for me is some early mornings so is going to take me a while unless I can convince my boss to give me vacations.
I know there is a lot of experience here so your help in the process will be appreciated. Obviously I will use the search function as much as possible during the process.
Here are some pictures of the car before;



This is the a list of some of the mods on the car NA
Stillen TD exhaust
Sprut Headers
Kinetix Cats
Motordyne 5/16 Iso Thermal
K&N Drop in
Unortodox 3 Pulley set
Utec
Blitz Throttle Controller
Stillen Engine Damper
Nismo Radiator Cap
Odysey PC680+ posts
Rays G35 wheels (chromed) with 245/255-35-19 Toyo T1R
25mm spacers R and 20mm F
QUAIFE Limited with 3.9Central FD
Brembo calipers from Track with cross drill and slotted disk and stainless lines
ACT prolite Flywheel /Clutch combo
Stainless Nismo clutch line
Obviously some of these will go out.
271whp Dynojet (lost the copy)
Here is the list of the mods in process.
Vortech Tuner Kit - T-trim + 3.33 pulley
ATI Super Damper crank Pulley - 6.78"
928 Universal Adjustable Boost Limiter Valve (BLV)
Icevex 24x12x4 intercooler
AAM Fuel return system
Dynotune Boost and A/F gages
Walbro 255lph
Deatschwerks 600CC
Utec Tuner reg
TurboXS MAP sensor
NGK 1step colder iridium
Kinetix SSV (already have it years ago)
Two Step / No Lift Shift Control Module - (have it but will install latter)
JWT Oil Pan Spacer
Stillen Oil Cooler
Titek Carbon Radiator Air Guide
Elite Eng. Catch Can
My plan with the combination of the stock 3.33” in the vortech and the 6.78” on the crank is to max the t-trim by redline, have the boost the soonest in the rpm range and to purge the excess boost with the 928 valve. If I need more boost just need to adjust the valve and retune. The other benefit I expect is to have less slippage since there will be more contact area in the belt. Also when it is time to rebuild the engine, will have the required supporting mods already (may be new injectors).
I’m doing it by my self and only time available for me is some early mornings so is going to take me a while unless I can convince my boss to give me vacations.
I know there is a lot of experience here so your help in the process will be appreciated. Obviously I will use the search function as much as possible during the process.
Here are some pictures of the car before;



Considering that the basic vortec blower is more than enough to blow a stock motor, its just a quick matter of time that the T-trim will....it moves A LOT more air than the standard blower for the VQ's.
GL though and keep us updated.
Tom
GL though and keep us updated.
Tom
^ The 928 Adjustable Boost Limiter Valve (BLV) will take care of that. I will adjust it during the tuning and the excess boost will purge before the intercooler.
Here are some pictures during;
Already AAM return kit in, oil pan spacer , walbro , sparks , oil return fitting and started to fit the intercooler




Here are some pictures during;
Already AAM return kit in, oil pan spacer , walbro , sparks , oil return fitting and started to fit the intercooler




I doubt you'll have to even use that valve. They are waste of money on a pulley setup.
At 6500 rpms, the impeller be at 55,000 rpm, so thats a nice start.
do you guys have 93 octane in PR?
At 6500 rpms, the impeller be at 55,000 rpm, so thats a nice start.
do you guys have 93 octane in PR?
Can you please give me more info on why do you think the valve will not work?
Have not weld it yet and did not found much info here on it.I know the pulley combo will max out the impeller and that is the why I bough it.
I'm pushing my Vortech sc trim to 14+psi on stock block, 40,000 miles no problems. I don't bet on my car, but have had it down the dragstrip.
There are other people with si trim up to 17psi on stock block.
There are other people with si trim up to 17psi on stock block.
Ya I was that guy with 17psi SI trim V3 on my stock block.
I'd still change the cogged pulleys before I'd use that valve to adjust boost levels. And even then, unless you are making ~400 ft-lbs of trq, you dont want to run less boost anyhow.
But since you already bought that $$ valve (is this the used kit that has been passed aorund the forums like a hooker?), I would not weld it in, until you make pulls on the dyno. At least that way you can sell it if you are not making 400 ft-lbs
I'd still change the cogged pulleys before I'd use that valve to adjust boost levels. And even then, unless you are making ~400 ft-lbs of trq, you dont want to run less boost anyhow.
But since you already bought that $$ valve (is this the used kit that has been passed aorund the forums like a hooker?), I would not weld it in, until you make pulls on the dyno. At least that way you can sell it if you are not making 400 ft-lbs
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No, is not that kit, mine is new.
I know it is the torque what will destroy the engine but this is a T-trim.
Maxing out on a T-Trim should break a stock engine.
You do not think so?
I know it is the torque what will destroy the engine but this is a T-trim.
Maxing out on a T-Trim should break a stock engine.
You do not think so?
if ur gonna go with that setup and bleed boost off then i see no point in running the 3.33 pulley, i would run a small pulley like the 2.87 and bring boost in sooner and bleed off the excess...what are u planning to make for peak boost? if u are gonna run the 3.33 pulley on that then i wouldnt even bother with the boost limiter valve
The offset with that ati will equal things out. It just depends, you won't need to run as high of boost pressure to get the same power on a t-trim since it flows more than an sc or si trim. Boost is just measured backpressure. When you increase the flow is when you start pumping more air. So 14psi isn't always just 14psi.

hell, i'd say weld up that bypass anyways, you can always tighten it down and not use it if you don't need to. Or you can put a smaller s/c pulley to get the boost higher at lower rpm then bleed it off after 12psi or so. This would help with downlow power. Those t-trims can be overspun without issues. Most of us spin our tiny sc trim way past what it's supposed to. I think MrpharmD was spinning his t-trim impeller at 62k or so.
Ya I was overspinning the hell out of the blower with a 2.60.
Also I don't Think the 3.33 pulley will fit with the t trim. And if u aren't using the timrod method u are going to slip like crazy. If ure interested in preventing the slip I would either buy my smooth pulley or have a local shop smooth that pulley to do the timrod setup. Pm if u have questions.
Also I don't Think the 3.33 pulley will fit with the t trim. And if u aren't using the timrod method u are going to slip like crazy. If ure interested in preventing the slip I would either buy my smooth pulley or have a local shop smooth that pulley to do the timrod setup. Pm if u have questions.
Last edited by Mr_pharmD; Jul 18, 2010 at 06:34 PM.
Ya I was overspinning the he'll out of the blower with a 2.60.
Also I don't Think the 3.33 pulley will fit with the t trim. And if aren't going the timrod method u are going to slip like crazy. If ure interested in preventing the slip I would either buy my smooth pulley or have a local shop smooth that pulley to do the timrod setup. Pm if u have questions.
Also I don't Think the 3.33 pulley will fit with the t trim. And if aren't going the timrod method u are going to slip like crazy. If ure interested in preventing the slip I would either buy my smooth pulley or have a local shop smooth that pulley to do the timrod setup. Pm if u have questions.
I understood it was supposed to come with the 3.12 but I measured it at 3.33, will measure it again.
T-Trim max speed is 55,000
Remember that the ATI measures 6.78
According to Vortech formula with a 3.33 should be at 55k by redline.
About boost levels, I would be looking at the peak torque not boost, 380-400 max.
Crank Pulley = 6.78, cog setup 32/28 and redline 6600
SC pulleys and RPM
3.33---- 54365.65251
3.12---- 58024.87912
2.87---- 63079.3111
2.62---- 69098.32933
I removed the crank pulley bolt, but have not swapped it. I have the UR in the motor and have the stock pulley and the ATI so I can put the stock without the valve or put the ATI and valve, will think about it…
T-Trim max speed is 55,000
Remember that the ATI measures 6.78
According to Vortech formula with a 3.33 should be at 55k by redline.
About boost levels, I would be looking at the peak torque not boost, 380-400 max.
Crank Pulley = 6.78, cog setup 32/28 and redline 6600
SC pulleys and RPM
3.33---- 54365.65251
3.12---- 58024.87912
2.87---- 63079.3111
2.62---- 69098.32933
I removed the crank pulley bolt, but have not swapped it. I have the UR in the motor and have the stock pulley and the ATI so I can put the stock without the valve or put the ATI and valve, will think about it…
My car is running absolutely beautifully...the only thing is that it makes somewhat less power than most people here on the forums but I believe it has more to do with the fact that I'm running gigantic heavy wheels and I'm automatic more than anything else. It pulls smooth and with good power though and cruises like stock.






