Brett@AwesomeZ

I also like to crack open the plastic screw on the heater hose, it's the highest point in the system and you may get some air out there.

djtimodj

Brett thats the bleed screw that is removed with the APS TT kit.

I took the car out again to night did some good pulls and got the car hot. Coolan did not overflow but came up to about 1" from the top of the APS overflow tank.

I idled the car for 5 mins and shut it down, I got the same gurgling noise from the heater hose area so i cracked open the right side turbo water return line. I got quick a bit of air out the system and then squashed the rad hose to get ore out before i did it back up. Dam i have ALOT! of air in the system! I hope its not gas from a blown head gasket ;-(

binder

iTrader: (8)

you need to figure that out before you keep beating on it.

I would have it pressure checked asap. Also, you can check the level of the coolant, drive it until it's hot, mark the high point of the coolant in the res, then let it cool completely. The level should go back down to the low point. If it doens't go down all the way then there is air getting into the system somehow.

Also, GET THE STUPID SPILL FREE FUNNEL! You're not listening to how much air you can get in a system with an improper bleed. Mine was functioning normal so i thought it was bled then i had TONS of air still left when i used a spill free funnel.

superchargedg

iTrader: (4)

^^^A big one is getting the air out and do not let your overflow tank ever get empty....cause you will never get all the air pockets out.I batted it for 4 days before i got all the air out and it was a PITA.

djtimodj

Im bleeding the car with a funnel that is similar to a spill free set up. Its clear and about 12" tall. Ive been jacking the fron of the car up and fitting the funnel in the rad top up hole wit the rad cap off. Ive let the car warm up at idle and then go through the 3K RPM for 30 secs with a few rev blips and i do get bubbles coming out that i can see when sitting in the driver seat. Ive also cracked open the top heater hose and bleed the car from there, Also run te heater on full hot and with the heater off aswell. Ive checked the coolant level this morning and its low, may be 0.75-1" at the bottom of the overflow. No leaks that i can see ( i put a huge bit of white paper under the car with the undertray off) The problem with the Tstat not opening seams to be resolved because the Stat has opened the last 2 times i've driven the car.

Last night my oil temps were 80C and the OEM fans for the water were not running. I got the car home left it to idle for 5 mins and the Oem fans kick in and out due to lack of air flow and the oil temp came up to 90C, when i shut the car down the overflow started to rise it can up another inch?

Any idea's on why the overflow still comes up after the cars shutdown.

Cass007

iTrader: (34)

You will know its fully purged by how it sounds after shutof as well. My car sounded like a coffee maker after I would shut it off as the air worked its way to settling points. It was a percolating sound.

If you could care less about the dealership flagging your car for mods, I had been told that they can pressure bleed the system to push all the air out .

djtimodj

Cass a full pressure test pressure bleed is next mate if i cant do it with the funnel.

I bled it again to day and its just cooling down with the funnel still inplace as the coolant contracts.

One thing i did notice was the coolant level in the funnel from the rad filled up a good 2" after i shut the car off in less than a min? I got the bubbling noises from the heater hose area so i cracked open the turbo return and got air/steam pissing out the bleed nipple? This did not happen when i bled the car while it was running? I still think its from the water/coolant boiling in the turbos?

binder

iTrader: (8)

Is that funnel SEALED to the radiator?

a regular tall funnel won't work. The funnel has to be completely sealed to the radiator like the spill free funnel. If not air around the edges of the funnel will be pulled back into the system. Hence the reason for a spill free funnel with special radiator cap attachments.

djtimodj

Yeah the funnel is sealed I think. I top it up and it holds a good 6" of water as head pressure and does not leak any water from around the rad cap into the little over flow take off.

binder

iTrader: (8)

ah, that will work then.

let it idle up to operating temp and then you have to rev the engine, hold it at 3500rpms or so, then rev it quite a few times to loosen the air bubbles.

Brett@AwesomeZ

With the heater blasting. And make sure it is blowing hot.

binder

iTrader: (8)

good catch sir!

Chris@FsP

iTrader: (4)

Here's the process that we do, and it works every time.

-Attach funnel
-Pinch off the hose going to the overflow tank
-Put a bit of coolant in the funnel
-Start car with heater full on
-Once car is fully heated up, hold it at 3k for a few seconds at a time.
-Sometimes squeezing the upper and lower radiator hoses during the process helps squeeze out some air bubbles
-Keep a close eye on the funnel. As more and more air bubbles come up, the coolant level drops lower. You do NOT want getting low and sucking in air!

djtimodj

Chris that's the exact process I have been doing. I've held the revs for 30 secs at a time with a good stream of small bubbles comin out the funnel. The heater is that hot now it burns my hand if I hold it close to the vent!

binder

iTrader: (8)

ya, mine was this way for a long time (hot) but air kept coming out. I also rev a lot higher than the 3k. I hold it at 3k but i was giving it free revs to 6k to move the coolant real fast and get the air moving.

also, this won't do anythign if you have a head gasket problem. Air will still be forced into yoru cooling system.

- bigc -

iTrader: (18)

another tip - be mindful of air in the line to the overflow. when you open the radiator cap you likely let air into that line. it doesn't matter while bleeding since the spill free funnel effectively removes the overflow from the system. however, when you remove the funnel and put the radiator cap back on, air trapped in that line could be drawn back into the engine as it cools. either wait until the car has fully cooled before removing the spill free funnel (which is what the instructions say IIRC) and/or elevate the overflow tank so air is forced out of the line prior to putting the radiator cap back on.

djtimodj

That is something i have not thought about. Thanks mate.

Binder i know if my HG is gone all tis bleeding its not going to help.

Im on a brake in map so my rev limit is 4.7K so thats the highest i can rev! lol..

Alos my whole street hates me know from the hours of sitting on the drive way reving my car up and down! They must think i just love making noise! lol..

djtimodj

Guys the cooling problem has changed. The bottom rad hose now warms up as it should and when i drive the car the coolant temp is rock steady. the coolant overflow rises up about 1-1.5" from the top and stays there.

The problem comes when i shut the car down. I took the overflow cap off and watched the level, it came up and overflowed in about 2 mins ofter shutting the car down.

If i run the heater on full hot with the motor OFF then this seams to help the overflow from spilling over. Also if i crack the turbo water return line that goes in to the top heater hose the it spits air/steam and the overflow stops coming over?

It looks like when the car is shut off the water is boiling and the cooling system pressures up, this opens the rad cap and overfills the overflow tank?

I dont think the HG is blow because the coolant is fine with the motor running and even under boost it does not overflow only when the car is shutdown?

Guys are the OEM fans supossed to run even when the motor is switched off? Most cars when there hot the electric fans still run for a few mins after the motor is off to cool them alittle ?? It looks like i need the fans to run after the motor is shut down?

Chris@FsP

iTrader: (4)

It's not abnormal for the coolant temps to rise a bit after shutoff. Maybe I missed this, but what radiator cap are you running? Are you sure it is not faulty? If the HG is good, and there is no air in the system, and the cap turns out to be good, then maybe you just need a larger overflow tank. I remember on my old APS kit, after I shut the car off, coolant would trickle out the little breather hole in the top no matter what I did.

Abbey m/s

Well read through the whole thread, we built the motor and I tuned the car for the base map.

I would say the Thermostat is faulty definite change this for a New one and a Nismo one if possible

We have fitted a bleed system to a couple of TT 350z and this cures the problem of the water being boiled in the turbo,s after shut down, we have been tuning Skylines for 20 years and these cars have the same troubles.

Once you fit a proper self bleed system the car has a swirl pot higher than the entire cooling system of the car, this allow us to bleed water from the radiator and turbo return pipe into the swirl pot then returns this water back into the bottom hose , this bleeds the air from the cooling system all the time. So even after you shut down and the water boils in the cooling system the air is bleed to the highest point the swirl pot as soon as you fire the motor back up.

The APS overflow tank is FAR to small in my opinion , the water will expand on warm up it should push this water into the overflow tank once the car is turned off when it cools down it "should" suck the water fromt he overflow tank back into the radiator as the water "shrinks" agains as it cools down. I think the car definite needs a larger overflow tank.


Tim just get the car back to us , it isn't a HG problem it would just blow the water out of the car under load quickly if it was.


Mark