bealljk

iTrader: (13)

Take this the right way, but I'm using you as a test mule!

A big speed bump is I'd need $1000 to $3000 to upgrade my fuel system ... and I dont know that my greddy 18g twins are really going to move as much air to make a E85 jump the best idea.

What meth kit do you have?

I do appreciate your insight and experience offered

BluestreamDE

I have the coolingmist methanol injecton kit. Ran me about 350 bucks. Just a basic boost switch that was adjustable and a CM10 nozzle which sprays approx 14gph which was a lot of spray, so I was minusing about 20% fuel from the pump tune to compensate the extra meth once it was triggered.

Methanol also introduces extra oxygen in its compound on top of its cooling abilities and octane rating, more air more fuel more bang. As Colorado has higher elevation with thinner air, that would benefit you greatly.

I was also able to advance to almost 21° in certain parts of the powerband on my stock setup running 13psi, ranging from 19°-21° once the meth was spraying thru out the Rev range at WOT.

I'm no expert either but I am sharing what I know

onevq35de

I'm a huge fan of oldmanz and mean 0 disrespect BUT I must disagree with the sentiment of water inj. as a band aid. From what I've learned, if true, I believe the ic is the band aid. I cannot say with 100% certainty that what I think I know is 100% correct because I haven't experimented with it myself but I came across some info that if true, would make an ic at low to mid levels of boost obsolete and necessitating a smaller ic for big boost when using water/meth injected pre-compressor. Took me awhile to find this info so I don't wanna just throw it out on a forum, though it was an older muscle forum I found it on. If you guys want, pm me and I'll give it to you, including oldman350z. All I ask is that if you go this route to please share your experience with me and don't spread this info.
Bealljk, thanks for the maf offer whether it was to me or the more worthy BSDE gentleman from TX. I'll remember that and when the time comes, I'll hit you up & we'll work something out. I still have my tail between my legs when it comes to traditional FI as I've been working really hard at getting what was a 4200lb awd FX35 beautiful big pig down to just over 3,900 lbs at this point. I'm leaning towards maxing out what I've got on a stock block and shooting for low 14's. I think I might be there now and I have a few more tricks up my sleeve so if I can get a high 13, that'd be swell. Then getting water/alcohol inj pre-maf operational, then a 75 shot and move onto a h.c. build and built trans for 150-200 shot.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

I agree with this statement ... whenever I bring up water meth inj all my car buds (especially the ones that are gung-hoe about e85) say this is dumb and a waste of time and I'm asking for detonation.

It confuses me on why water meth gets such a bad wrap?

Whoever needs it ... it's taking up approximately 4 square inches in a box in the garage!

what'd you take off to equate to 300lbs? just curious (if it's lighter, it goes faster)

onevq35de

I copied this off my spreadsheet. Individual weights are close to dead on. Sometimes, I pulled multiple things and didn't do a good job keeping it all separated. For example, pulled the rear wiper & motor and I know it's in here somewhere. When more than 1/2 this **** was removed, I weight it on a scale that lots of guys in the military use to weigh their **** when moving from one place to another.
Here's a link to my thread https://www.infinitiscene.com/thread...-redux.230572/
-- WEIGHT STOCK 4204 DRY or 4375 W/FULL TANK --
WEIGHED 6/30/17 @ 3980 LBS WITH 1/8 TANK OF GAS 3929 DRY - REMOVED 278 LBS
wheels, tires, brakes, brake lines, suspension spring – 87 lbs.
High-flow cats & V plenum - 13 lbs.
Spare tire & tools – 65 lbs.
Sway bars & hardware – 36 lbs.
Misc. brackets, hatch seat belt, transmission weight – 15 lbs.
U.D. pulleys – 6 lbs.
Exhaust – 5 lbs.
Original floor mats & spare tire cover – 35 lbs.
Washer fluid res. & idler pulley deletes – 6 lbs.
Coolant bypass hoses & brackets, oil filter heater & wire tuck brackets - 7 lbs.
Horn, bumper guard bar, 5th head rest & grill swap – 3 lbs.
------- WEIGHT TO BE REMOVED -------
Carbon fiber driveshafts – 40-70 lbs?
Front crash bar & mounts – 20 lbs?
Lightweight 440 cca battery - Optima or Oddessey – 12 lbs?
Tomei headers – 4lbs?
Sunroof replaced w/ Lexan or Optic Armor & motor delete – 30lbs?

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

Right on ... I dont know how much your current drive shaft/shafts weight but you probably wont take 40lbs off of it by going carbon fiber. If you want to spend some money consider Drive Shaft Shop's aluminum (I think it's lighter than the OEM CF). Look into Braille's lightweight AGM batteries. I saved ~35lbs by going from a standard walmart battery to a braille - cost was about ~$170. I also dropped 64lbs going from a 20" to 18" wheels.

onevq35de

Thanks for the advice. Guy on the fx forum has a c.f. driveshaft (rwd) who claimed something like 50lbs lighter? I think our shafts are just a little bit bigger than your's. Not sure about the accuracy of the weight but I thought between front & rear d.s.'s, should be at least 40lbs. Want c.f. because it'll twist a bit on launch sparing my diff's a little shock and the diameter is smaller than aluminum concerning rotational mass. Need all the help I can get.
My current battery is 35lbs, everlast 660cca. How long have you had the Braille? Any issues?
Those 20's must've been cinder blocks! Went from stock 18" at 30lbs. each to just under 20lbs each and tires are 10lbs lighter each. Makes a big difference.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

If the FX is 70lbs than maybe...but 50 is a pretty big number - maybe there's other deductions were not considering.

How would you size a 350z cf drive shaft to a FX if they're different sizes?

it may twist but you'll never notice it ... if you have chips or any damage to the CF it'll shatter in torsion (it's how I almost got a DUI)


post #321
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...n-build-7.html

no issues with the battery and I run a 40amp alternator as well. With that being said, I am only running 1/3rd of the cars factory electrical draw.

TSW Indy 500 - 57lb fronts / 64lb rears = 242lbs
Enkei RPF1s 44lbs each = 176lbs

onevq35de

My guess is my rear d.s. is 6-12" longer than a Z's. I need to either give the DSS my measurements or bring the shafts to them. They're about 30-45min away from me in Salisbury I believe. I wouldn't expect to notice the c.f. do it's thing but they will help relieve stress.
You almost got a dui because your driveshaft shattered? Whaaaaaaat?

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

circa 2010 had a few drinks in me...thought it'd be fun to blast an on-ramp and surer than ****, drive shaft snapped and I was stranded ... of course, 2minutes later cop rolls up on me and there I am...passed a field sobriety test and by that time a tow-truck was there and loaded the car and got me home!

tcode

iTrader: (7)

There's nothing wrong using Water Meth spraying, if.. done right.

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

Take whatever Oldman says with a grain of salt for two reason
1. Hes old
2. He runs a basic FI setup..a vortech. And probably on stock ECU or piggyback. Unless he is running a boost limiter valve..his boost is RPM dependent.

Edit:
My kit is a aquamist that ties into my haltech that controls my boost controller. I can configure the Aquamist and Haltech to reduce boot down to wastegate pressure if the meth is not working. Can also use it to change the fuel/timing if need be but just seems complicated.

Also E85----what a pain. Poor cold starts, poor availability and fluctuating quality/content. Huge injectors, poor miles per tank and smells.

If the goal is to get IAT down then use whatever method possible. My greddy kit has a massive IC. His vortech came stock with a puny one. I still run meth (pre turbo) to help aid in effciency of the turbos especially in the hot summer. My goal is to make the most whp/tq on the least amount of boost.

onevq35de

No more drinks for u then. I see now what bealljk is code for - "be all junk" and you came up with this when you were drunk, hence the "junk" instead of drunk Your ds shattering is nutz though.

onevq35de

I realize this response wasn't directed towards me but I have to reply. Your going to have to read about Oldmanz's setup before commenting on it as you clearly do not understand it. No offense to you though some might find your post offensive as Oldmanz is a pioneer regarding the vortech on the vq35de. Lb for lb and $ for $ spent, his setup makes the typical built vq w/twins look ridiculous imo. No offense to the tt club, just what I've gleaned from all the info available.

BluestreamDE

Is someone's age a disqualifier for knowledge? I don't know anyone else on a stock DE pushing as much power as he does. Far from a basic setup imho, but you seem very opinionated on the matter.

I'm glad your aquamist kit is working for you.

E85 ain't bad. And cold/hots starts are no longer an issue with me. If the ethanol content varies, since you have haltech, hook up a flex fuel sensor as it automatically changes the tune on its own, for me On Uprev, it's simply fine tuning the fuel compensation tables.

I think we are agreeing on the same thing here. Water meth is a good alternative to your build. I have experience with it spraying 100% meth with a pretty big nozzle with my Voretch and gained a lot of power and timing with it. But ultimately the kit is cooling the air better than any intercooler can due to the effect of atomized water and meth in the charge air going to the motor.

PS: I also said that unfortunately it is another point of failure in a build if it doesn't not have a failsafe method of telling the ECU the pump isn't spraying meth while under boost. Since I had the basic Coolingmist that was my biggest concern as I am still on Uprev and if the pump failed, unless my eyes are glued to my AFR gauge, the car has no idea and the scenerio of running dangerously lean while under boost is present.

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

guess i shoulda put a smiley face after the "he's old"

He has done a lot for the vortech/de but hes not the only one. He is just pushing the stock block setup and running 1/4 mile times.

As for heat...you would think a vortech type sc would benefit greatly from a meth kit since the vortech pumps some pretty hot air.

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

i was joking about the age comment.

Screw e-85...never gonna run that crap.

You dont have time to stare at AFR guage. Do datalogging or let passenger look. I like the failsafes that I have in place. Aquamist monitors flow..which is nice. You could tie that to your boost controller independent of UPREV

BluestreamDE

Gotcha, guess i didn't see the joke.

OK man, I'm not trying to force you to convert. I personally don't have that much issue with it. Please use whatever fuel you want, we are just having a calm discussion on the pros and cons.

I mean that sarcastically. I street tune on my own so I do log but I don't have a right seater watching it.

And I agree with you man, it is good with Failsafes in place as you described. We are agreeing with each other that is is very useful to use meth.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

Ive actually gone dry when in the z ... it's way too much of a cop-magnet to risk it. if I'm fixing to tip a few back I gotta take the pickup!

You realize you've taken a 7 year old thread and brought it back to life? Love it!

I think Deadeye owns the record for dollar to dollar...

onevq35de

ds=drive shaft ya lush! Kidding. I can't imagine how scary that must've been when it broke but then again if you had a buzz....