i have an 04 G35 with APS GT TT and several other mods (will make build thread later) right now im running on the Unichip since it seems to be a solid tune, i have a osiris license (from NA days) and used it to make a few minor changes like removing top speed and upping the rev limiter. for some reason it wont let up bump the idle, every time we bump it and save it it goes right back to zero. So right now i idle at ~525 and unless i leave the AC on it dies if i clutch soon after getting out of vacumm. Anyone have any ideas? i bought a check valve for the PCV system but im unsure of where to put it.

Thanks for the help

 

bump

anybody?

 

i would email jared@uprev.com

i would say maybe vacuum leak but that does'nt explain why the flash doesn't raise the idle. That's the first issue.

 

/\/\/\
I went down this rode with them and the Cipher........

You probably won't get more than, "it should just work"

Tom

 

You are attempting to use Cipher or Osiris? It sounds like Cipher when you say it goes right back to 0. Only 03 and early 04 will allow Cipher to change idle. You must use Osiris reflash for the rest.

 

he tried to use cipher since mine is an 04 we will try osiris next time

but why would it only die only right after hitting boost? even though my idle is really low it dives if i have to clutch right after i was in boost

 

You will need to likely need to do a reflash via Osirus, rather than the simple Cipher bump.

 

if you have a light flywheel it will do this. If it's a built motor with lower compression it will also cause this to happen. RPMS drop faster with a light clutch and low compression motor and the ecu can't catch it before it stalls.

use osiris and flash it higher. I had to get up to 1000rpms for mien to not die. I also had problems with my throttle body was dirty. Take it off and clean it really well and that should help if it's dirty.

 

yea i have a JWT Clutch and flywheel, i didnt have the problem when i was NA, but we will try osiris this weekend, thanks for the advice

 

yep, it's a different beast on FI. You'll have to bump it. I think some guys are getting away with 700-750 at the lowest.

before you change it i honestly would take off the throttle body and clean it out. There is supposed to be a space around the butterfly valve to allow some air in when it's closed. When that gets all gummed up there is no space so it chokes the engine. Cleaning out the throttle body helped mine big time. Also wouldn't hurt to get MAF cleaner and clean your maf sensor while you are at it.

 

I don't have any issues at all with a 650 idle. But I've got every calibration performed and the ECU is tuned correctly for the MAF and injectors. I suspect the unichip is getting in the way of things, if I were you I'd toss the unichip and get a proper uprev tune and call it a day.

 

i will eventually but with the unichip i dont have to have a pmas and right now their are other things i need like oil cooler, front bumper, finish up my gauges etc, but it is in the plans

 

just clean the throttle body and try that. If it's idling at 525 something else is wrong to begin anyways. Stock idle is around 650. it's a simple and free (maybe cost of throttle body cleaner) test.

 

thats my plan for tomorow, and we will see how it turns out, thanks for the help

 

+1, not all model/year ECU's can have the idle or redline bumped without a full reflash.

 

Just make sure you disconnect the battery and the plug in on the tb before you move the throttle blade.

 

get a better ems, i have same problem, after hook up haltech it run like a champ