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My BP Single Turbo Kit Review

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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 01:25 PM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by MrZ1987
BP I also sent you a pm about another question about your kit.
Never mind...will reply shortyl.

Last edited by Boosted Performance; Oct 5, 2011 at 01:26 PM.
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 03:22 PM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by MrZ1987
Binder have you had the chance to drive through big puddles of water with the kit yet? Here in MA we get really really deep puddles after rain and there have been times where it comes up to the top of my side skirts on my RSX.

BP I also sent you a pm about another question about your kit.
I drove my car 14 hours from texas back to missouri during the worst snow/ice storm they have experienced. It's normally a 9 hour drive. There was so much slush and ice packed up in the front and even up int he engine bay of my car but no water issues. Of course people will say "ya it's snow"....no, it's not snow when the roads have been iced. It's thick water and slush.

again, like i've said, you have to completely submerge an air filter to get the turbo to suck water then you need more than apparently 1 liter per minute (what str8dum1 injects) to cause an issue. You truthfully would have to have water up to the bottoms of your doors to submerge that filter entirely. If only a tip of the filter is down in the water then th air will be sucked in the dry area of the filter. Then the water has to make its way vertically through the intercooler. Most likely it will just pool in the intercooler or be dispersed.

If you are driving the z in that much water you need to evaluate what type of vehicle you should drive. Low intake or not you shouldn't take a low riding vehicle through water like that. Drive a truck when it rains that much.
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 06:21 AM
  #103  
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not to mention that good air filters are hydrophobic so they wont saturate with water. mine are directly behind the mesh in my bumper and see straight on rain and splashes from puddles. no issue.
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 06:42 AM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
not to mention that good air filters are hydrophobic so they wont saturate with water. mine are directly behind the mesh in my bumper and see straight on rain and splashes from puddles. no issue.
another great point.
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 06:55 AM
  #105  
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You can also add a dry flow prefilter:





AEM Dryflow� Pre-Filters are manufactured from a durable micro-screen material and pretreated with a proprietary hydrophobic process designed to prevent splashes of water or mud from saturating your Dryflow air filter. AEM Dryflow Pre-filters also stop small dirt particles; yet add little restriction.
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 05:22 PM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by binder
I drove my car 14 hours from texas back to missouri during the worst snow/ice storm they have experienced. It's normally a 9 hour drive. There was so much slush and ice packed up in the front and even up int he engine bay of my car but no water issues. Of course people will say "ya it's snow"....no, it's not snow when the roads have been iced. It's thick water and slush.

again, like i've said, you have to completely submerge an air filter to get the turbo to suck water then you need more than apparently 1 liter per minute (what str8dum1 injects) to cause an issue. You truthfully would have to have water up to the bottoms of your doors to submerge that filter entirely. If only a tip of the filter is down in the water then th air will be sucked in the dry area of the filter. Then the water has to make its way vertically through the intercooler. Most likely it will just pool in the intercooler or be dispersed.

If you are driving the z in that much water you need to evaluate what type of vehicle you should drive. Low intake or not you shouldn't take a low riding vehicle through water like that. Drive a truck when it rains that much.
Thanks I just wanted to hear from an owner that there are no problems with water. Also to your last point I don't plan on driving through big puddles but in New England it can be nice out and then all of a sudden when your driving you get hit with heavy torrential down pours that flood the streets, such a pain.
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 01:37 PM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by MrZ1987
Thanks I just wanted to hear from an owner that there are no problems with water. Also to your last point I don't plan on driving through big puddles but in New England it can be nice out and then all of a sudden when your driving you get hit with heavy torrential down pours that flood the streets, such a pain.
ya, makes sense. just take the high roads and never drive it into a water covered road and you should be good.
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 12:12 AM
  #108  
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Question? I believe the the last time I asked this question was about a year ago... any HR love headed our way?
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 11:48 AM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by 1ROUGHNIGHT
Question? I believe the the last time I asked this question was about a year ago... any HR love headed our way?
he needs a donor car to fab something up with, no one up there with an HR looking to be that donor so far XD
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Old Oct 18, 2011 | 04:14 PM
  #110  
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Ive been busy but i figured i would give a little update. I contacted Sasha and went with a 6265 ball bearing turbo to replace my 6262 journal bearing. I ended up getting tuned at a different place than previously. Kaizen Tuning did the tune on their dyno dynamics. The tuner said he got up to 440 hp but my 550cc injectors were at 105 % duty cycle so he backed off. I am very happy with the car and the guys at Kaizen Tuning were awesome! I just wanted to give you guys an update seeing this thread has been bumped a few times. Here is the dyno sheet:

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I know its a different dyno but here is my old dyno sheet for comparison sake. Keep in mind, i had some small exhaust leaks when this dyno was done.

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Old Oct 18, 2011 | 08:20 PM
  #111  
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Nice numbers and steep torque curve Brian, let me know if you decide to upgrade the injectors. I can get you 800's at a great price.
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Old Oct 19, 2011 | 07:54 AM
  #112  
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that shop needs to brush up a hair on math because there is no such thing as 105% duty cycle. 100% is stuck open. Unless the injector openings are getting bigger, you can open an injector 5% further than wide open.

What was your injector pulse width at redline? You can calculate duty cycle yourself. You might not even been close to injector limits. Was the car starting to lean out?

Last edited by str8dum1; Oct 19, 2011 at 10:57 AM.
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Old Oct 19, 2011 | 09:18 AM
  #113  
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How much better is your spool with a BB turbo? I see you bring on peak tq much sooner than before or is that just because of the new tune?
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Old Oct 19, 2011 | 10:58 AM
  #114  
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BB design is built around decreasing lag between shifts. PTE even advertises very minimal differences in initial spool between their JB and BB designs.

I could never justify the additional 5-800$ per turbo.
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Old Oct 19, 2011 | 12:21 PM
  #115  
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sasha might have the dyno i sent him before im not sure i cant view it on work computers and too lazy to go to the mwr. but it compared a 6765 jb to a 6765 dbb on a rb26(yah i know i know diff platform but its exact same turbo with the different bearings) the dbb started spooling 300 rpm sooner. maxed out at the same point as the jb but from the time the jb started to spool to the time it maxed the dbb was an average of around 30 hp higher in that rpm range.
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Old Oct 20, 2011 | 04:23 AM
  #116  
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the tune might have a little to do with the tq curve coming on earlier but i also had some preturbo exhaust leaks during the first dyno. It honestly feels the same (lag wise) in between shifts.
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Old Oct 20, 2011 | 04:29 AM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
that shop needs to brush up a hair on math because there is no such thing as 105% duty cycle. 100% is stuck open. Unless the injector openings are getting bigger, you can open an injector 5% further than wide open.

What was your injector pulse width at redline? You can calculate duty cycle yourself. You might not even been close to injector limits. Was the car starting to lean out?
not sure about the pulse width. i read up on IDC's and from what ive read, IDC's can go up as high as 120%
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Old Oct 20, 2011 | 05:17 AM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
BB design is built around decreasing lag between shifts. PTE even advertises very minimal differences in initial spool between their JB and BB designs.

I could never justify the additional 5-800$ per turbo.

Good to know. I got a BB turbo for my RSX because I thought it would spool faster but I couldn't really tell how much better it was since I have never had a JB turbo.

Originally Posted by BCs350z
the tune might have a little to do with the tq curve coming on earlier but i also had some preturbo exhaust leaks during the first dyno. It honestly feels the same (lag wise) in between shifts.
Well whatever caused it, it looks great. I see you went to Kaizen Tuning they are not that far from me only about 18 miles. Do they tune a lot of z's? I see they do a lot of Honda's.
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Old Oct 20, 2011 | 06:26 AM
  #119  
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There is a difference in spool between the JB and BB. I have logged it. It is not that much but enough to make a difference to some people. There is no way a JB will do this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_lAwu3uSyIg

Last edited by Boosted Performance; Oct 20, 2011 at 06:27 AM.
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Old Oct 20, 2011 | 07:09 AM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by MrZ1987
Good to know. I got a BB turbo for my RSX because I thought it would spool faster but I couldn't really tell how much better it was since I have never had a JB turbo.



Well whatever caused it, it looks great. I see you went to Kaizen Tuning they are not that far from me only about 18 miles. Do they tune a lot of z's? I see they do a lot of Honda's.
Kaizen Tuning was great. They do mostly high end cars but their specialty is GTR's. When i went there they had about 4 R35's, all modded. Nice clean shop and the guys were more then nice.
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