sts hung me out 2 dry
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From: MIDVALE UTAH
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From: MIDVALE UTAH
I have had nothing but problems with sts, i will never put one on my z after my WS6 sat for 13 months in a finger pointing match. first they send me a white pump (oil) when i should have had the black one. This caused the turbo to blow its seals since it received too much pressure and i became spy hunter. With a blown turbo on a car that just started and moved to the dyno literally a 40 foot crawl. STS pointed at precision and visa versa. STS was so unwilling to budge since the car didnt have a stock motor, like that had something to do with it since it draws from oil pan and dumps in oil fill. After months of no stop calls, email, letters. Precision said they will fix the turbo. STS now says the kit is void on warranty since they did not provide the turbo. Longer story short STS is another great idea poorly managed. I even met with the president at sema and he personally knows the case, but cannot do anything about it since he is "removed" from the companies warranty issues since he is more on the R&D side. I would recommend that they not be used by any person other than a C5 or C6 (corvette) owner looking for a no modification kit.
and thats all that can be said about that
im off my soap box
and thats all that can be said about that
im off my soap box
Let me play devils advocate... if u didn't use their Turbo, why r they responsible 4 sending u the wrong pump?
Glad u finally got it worked out though.
I went through the same crap... sts blamed my tuner.
They said it 2as his responsibility to tighten everything.
My tuner says Turbo is supposed to come with bolts already forked down.
Not 2 mention they sent me a box full of busted and missing parts and it took 5 months to finally get everything!
Correction, I still don't have my filter sock!
This is standard procedure with just about every turbo install, and does not play a role in your oil issue at all. Chances are that the cheap oil return pumps STS uses failed, causing the seals to blow and all the oil to leak thought on the exhaust side. The fuse could have been blows as well. Did you check your pump fuse, and the IC piping for oil? I bet that they are coated on the inside as well.
Good luck with your build.
Last edited by Boosted Performance; Dec 26, 2010 at 06:31 AM.
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From: MIDVALE UTAH
I am sorry about your luck with the motor, but reading the bold tells me that you have ALOT of research/reading to do. I would suggest doing this ASAP before buying your next turbo.
Whoever installed the kit, clearly did not know what they were doing. Every turbo needs to be clocked during an install. In order to clock a turbo, both the compressor and turbine bolts need to be loosened. This allows the installer to align the exhaust housing to the exhaust, and the compressor housing to mate up to the IC pipe going to your FMIC. Once everything is in place, the bolts get tightened.
This is standard procedure with just about every turbo install, and does not play a role in your oil issue at all. Chances are that the cheap oil return pumps STS uses failed, causing the seals to blow and all the oil to leak thought on the exhaust side. The fuse could have been blows as well. Did you check your pump fuse, and the IC piping for oil? I bet that they are coated on the inside as well.
Good luck with your build.
Whoever installed the kit, clearly did not know what they were doing. Every turbo needs to be clocked during an install. In order to clock a turbo, both the compressor and turbine bolts need to be loosened. This allows the installer to align the exhaust housing to the exhaust, and the compressor housing to mate up to the IC pipe going to your FMIC. Once everything is in place, the bolts get tightened.
This is standard procedure with just about every turbo install, and does not play a role in your oil issue at all. Chances are that the cheap oil return pumps STS uses failed, causing the seals to blow and all the oil to leak thought on the exhaust side. The fuse could have been blows as well. Did you check your pump fuse, and the IC piping for oil? I bet that they are coated on the inside as well.
Good luck with your build.
It's starting to look like my tuner dropped the ball on this one.
He told me he didn't have 2 clock the Turbo.
I can't condemn him yet though since he is ( IMO ) making up 4 his mistake. His willingness to do so much 4 me kinda implies guilt I guess.
I will keep u guys posted on my new build.
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From: MIDVALE UTAH
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Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Boise
DEAR GOD OP,
Please download Google Chrome, it comes with auto-spell check. When it comes to your predicament; build your motor yourself if your knowledgeable or take it to a reputable shop and have someone competent do it. Best of luck to you.
/thread
Please download Google Chrome, it comes with auto-spell check. When it comes to your predicament; build your motor yourself if your knowledgeable or take it to a reputable shop and have someone competent do it. Best of luck to you.
/thread
you can search it out. show me those that have been successful on sleeved blocks. I bet there isn't more than a handful. On top of that, it's clear that what you don't know could fill a warehouse, so a bit more searching in general would do you some good
I agree. If what he's saying is true about the run-around in terms of misleading delivery times etc, in the beginning, I'd be kicking myself for not pulling the plug then. Involving others has just led to a cluster f#%k of shared blame. At least it can serve as a "what can go wrong" lesson for those still sitting on the fence.
ok, well this is why
https://my350z.com/forum/shop-builds...es-653whp.html
look at the part list from one of the biggest tuner shops in the US
lets see, bigger fuel, bigger cams, valvetrain
= 653 on a dynojet COMPLETELY strung out. as in unhook the wastegate and this is what it does.
https://my350z.com/forum/shop-builds...es-653whp.html
look at the part list from one of the biggest tuner shops in the US
lets see, bigger fuel, bigger cams, valvetrain
= 653 on a dynojet COMPLETELY strung out. as in unhook the wastegate and this is what it does.
Also not to blame you for the failure but you may have been able to do more to prevent the severity of it. If your car sounds like something is falling apart, i don't think i would make a 3rd-4th gear full boost pull then when things seem to have gone south nurse it another 4 blocks. As soon as things sound like they are falling apart they probably are shut it down and have a look, it may have saved your engine and turbo.
Anyway what is done is done and i hope you get your issues sorted out and the car back running with as minimal expense as possible......ditch the sleeve idea it is a waste of money and could be another source of issues down the road. Boring a stock engine .020thou over is acceptable tolerance and should allow you to remove any imperfections in the cylinder walls unless the engine had a bent or broke rod that really banged things up.
Good luck and let us know how it goes
Anyway what is done is done and i hope you get your issues sorted out and the car back running with as minimal expense as possible......ditch the sleeve idea it is a waste of money and could be another source of issues down the road. Boring a stock engine .020thou over is acceptable tolerance and should allow you to remove any imperfections in the cylinder walls unless the engine had a bent or broke rod that really banged things up.
Good luck and let us know how it goes
Last edited by Sylvan Lake V35; Dec 26, 2010 at 10:03 PM.
If you want more power, get a large T4 with a large a/r if you want to see anything past 600. The precision 6765 turbo would be a great option, no T3 turbos on the VQ, unless there is two of them.
Listen to what you are being told now. The GT35r is a sub 500whp turbo on the VQ on pump gas, with a low compression build.
If you want more power, get a large T4 with a large a/r if you want to see anything past 600. The precision 6765 turbo would be a great option, no T3 turbos on the VQ, unless there is two of them.
If you want more power, get a large T4 with a large a/r if you want to see anything past 600. The precision 6765 turbo would be a great option, no T3 turbos on the VQ, unless there is two of them.
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From: MIDVALE UTAH
ok, well this is why
https://my350z.com/forum/shop-builds...es-653whp.html
look at the part list from one of the biggest tuner shops in the US
lets see, bigger fuel, bigger cams, valvetrain
= 653 on a dynojet COMPLETELY strung out. as in unhook the wastegate and this is what it does.
https://my350z.com/forum/shop-builds...es-653whp.html
look at the part list from one of the biggest tuner shops in the US
lets see, bigger fuel, bigger cams, valvetrain
= 653 on a dynojet COMPLETELY strung out. as in unhook the wastegate and this is what it does.
Do u think it was a mistake 2 sleeve the block?
If so why?