sts hung me out 2 dry
He would have to cut the T3 flange off, and go on from there. I think the powerband would be horrible, with a T4 .81 a/r turbo being all the way back there. May see full boost at 5500rpm.
Now if you put that turbo where the gas tank was on a car equipped with a fuel cell... maybe spin it with something like an LS1...
Also not to blame you for the failure but you may have been able to do more to prevent the severity of it. If your car sounds like something is falling apart, i don't think i would make a 3rd-4th gear full boost pull then when things seem to have gone south nurse it another 4 blocks. As soon as things sound like they are falling apart they probably are shut it down and have a look, it may have saved your engine and turbo.
Anyway what is done is done and i hope you get your issues sorted out and the car back running with as minimal expense as possible......ditch the sleeve idea it is a waste of money and could be another source of issues down the road. Boring a stock engine .020thou over is acceptable tolerance and should allow you to remove any imperfections in the cylinder walls unless the engine had a bent or broke rod that really banged things up.
Good luck and let us know how it goes
Anyway what is done is done and i hope you get your issues sorted out and the car back running with as minimal expense as possible......ditch the sleeve idea it is a waste of money and could be another source of issues down the road. Boring a stock engine .020thou over is acceptable tolerance and should allow you to remove any imperfections in the cylinder walls unless the engine had a bent or broke rod that really banged things up.
Good luck and let us know how it goes

And nursing it another 4 blocks was a worse idea.
My only defence 2 that is that it was at night, I had my twelve year old daughter with me and my moms neighborhood is kinda scary.
As for the sleeves...too late my engine build is done, just waiting for my tuner to drop it n the car, break it in and synopsis tune it.
All the bad comments on the sleeves is starting to concern me though.
Why is it not good 2 sleeve an ingine? I thought thhis Increased reliability.
Because sleeves have been found not to be needed in 99% of builds. Moreover, those who have used them have had major failures. I would think you wouldn't even consider sleeves under 1000 HP.
It seems this platform has had bad luck with sleeves many of them leak or drop a couple thou and then your block is garbage. I had a sleeved engine and the sleeves dropped and the head gaskets wont seal. If the shop sleeving your engine knows what they are doing you should be fine. The other concern is sleeved engines run hotter than non-sleeved so road racing is a bad idea with sleeves.
You have to remember that the block is an aluminum casting. A properly designed casting is not necessarily free of defects. Rather any defects that could not be completely eliminated or were to cost prohibitive to eliminate are approched by means of reducing the defect and moving it to a non-essential location.
When you start machining out large portions of the block, such as during sleeving, you are more likely to encounter these small defects such as porosity, shrink and internal stress points from the casting process. This can cause to be weaker in certain manners even though the sleeves make it stronger in other manners. Add in that not every machine shop is really qualified or tooled up properly to machine and install the sleeves correctly and you have a significant amount of variables on your hands.
I would guess that 90% of the problems we have seen are due to poor machining or poor installation. Sleeving a motor isn't like pressing in a dowel pin, although many shops seem to approach it as such.
Did you go with Darton sleeves?
For a street car that you are looking for reliability out of it just doesn't equate to what you might think.
You have to remember that the block is an aluminum casting. A properly designed casting is not necessarily free of defects. Rather any defects that could not be completely eliminated or were to cost prohibitive to eliminate are approched by means of reducing the defect and moving it to a non-essential location.
When you start machining out large portions of the block, such as during sleeving, you are more likely to encounter these small defects such as porosity, shrink and internal stress points from the casting process. This can cause to be weaker in certain manners even though the sleeves make it stronger in other manners. Add in that not every machine shop is really qualified or tooled up properly to machine and install the sleeves correctly and you have a significant amount of variables on your hands.
I would guess that 90% of the problems we have seen are due to poor machining or poor installation. Sleeving a motor isn't like pressing in a dowel pin, although many shops seem to approach it as such.
Did you go with Darton sleeves?
You have to remember that the block is an aluminum casting. A properly designed casting is not necessarily free of defects. Rather any defects that could not be completely eliminated or were to cost prohibitive to eliminate are approched by means of reducing the defect and moving it to a non-essential location.
When you start machining out large portions of the block, such as during sleeving, you are more likely to encounter these small defects such as porosity, shrink and internal stress points from the casting process. This can cause to be weaker in certain manners even though the sleeves make it stronger in other manners. Add in that not every machine shop is really qualified or tooled up properly to machine and install the sleeves correctly and you have a significant amount of variables on your hands.
I would guess that 90% of the problems we have seen are due to poor machining or poor installation. Sleeving a motor isn't like pressing in a dowel pin, although many shops seem to approach it as such.
Did you go with Darton sleeves?
Guess I just have to hope the Machine shop my tuner used installed them correctly. (No I don't know what kind).
One of the main reasons 4 this site is to share info and help others.
I find it discouraging that many would rather hand out an insult insted of helpfull info.
I didn't think I had 2 become a mechanic to keep from getting burned by so called professionals.
I think I will have everything checked out by another shop when I get my car back.
Can anyone refer me to the nearest reputable shop from saltlakecity Utah?
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