midz350

iTrader: (4)

ARP L19 head studs are must IMO.

Get them from Kyle, only $550 for L19 Head & Main Stud Kit:

http://www.importpartspro.com/arpvqheandma.html

R6n350GT

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the suggestion, i have read a heap of your posts re your build (i think it was you) ! Learnt alot. From what my engine builder tells me the standard L17 and HR ones are fine for my power levels, he said its like when people got caught up sleeving their block because they thought it was a 'must'. So id rather do the HR way and ARP main studs and put money into a oil cooler or something else like better clutch.

binder

iTrader: (8)

i have this passage mod done on my current built block sitting on my stand. The issue is i pulled out some head studs so now i'm buying another built block already assembled but here is my issue. It doesn't have the coolant passage mod and i still want to run the HR gaskets.

so i know you machinists are going to cringe but i was thinking of turning the engine upside down, with the cylinders and everything taped off i would port that passage then blow out the cooling passages with compressed air so i don't have to tear the rods and pistons out of this engine.

Anyone else think this is pretty safe if i keep the crank area and combustion areas taped off? A little dust in the cooling passages shouldn't be an issue and will come out with compressed air.

I just do'nt want to tear this block apart for that mod but still want the cooling of the HR gasket.

thatv35guy

iTrader: (1)

Seems risky, IMO… just seems like that’s a lot of material to remove with the short block completely assembled… GL though!

binder

iTrader: (8)

ya, i have all the rotory tools to port things and after paying the shop 60$ to do this block i saw that they just used the same **** i have for porting.

If everything is taped off and i turn the block upside down and work from underneath then i shouldn't get much down there. I won't be doing much "grinding". I'll use a thin aluminum bit to cut 3 sides and remove the little window as a piece. A lot less mess than grinding it all out.

So, go for that and have the new gaskets or suck it up and buy 160$ cometic gaskets and run them. I used cometic before on my built block so no, i'm not worried about them holding power.

thatv35guy

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I think it should be doable; I guess it comes down to… do the cooling and cost benefit of the HR head gaskets warrant the risk of machining the assembled block? I think if you take every precaution and you carefully remove the passage it’ll work out fine.

Little off topic… but what head bolts are you using?

binder

iTrader: (8)

ya, i'm just trying to save money since i'm having to replace this block now. stupid old machinist over torquing my head studs a few years ago ruined this block.


Of course i'm using nothing but the best: L19

DaveJackson

iTrader: (5)

I agree that it sounds a bit crazy, but I've gotten away with something that was a little similar to this, too. Long story short, I literally drilled the stud holes in an assembled head larger and I used a running Shop-Vac "to pick up most of the shavings." Somehow, I never encountered a problem.
The thing is, it was on an old VW diesel and if it wrecked it, I'd have said, "oh well... I guess I'll have to buy another." I was uncertain if its block had any compression and if the head would've stayed on (since I also re-used the torque-to-yield bolts) and at the end of the day, another engine was basically in the cards for me when I bought the vehicle. So, I was prepared to have to lay out the money and it wouldn't have been that much cash. For some strange reason, the thing ran another 125,000km, so I guess I cleaned it up pretty well and had a little bit of luck on my side!
I guess what I'm trying to say is that you have to do the risk/reward analysis in your current situation. To me, what you're talking about sounds a lot less risky, but the cost if something goes wrong is so much higher.

binder

iTrader: (8)

thanks for the insight!

that was my thought on the matter. I'm going to have combustion portions taped off completely so no change of it getting in there. If anything there will be dust in the cooling passages which to be honest i'm not all that careful when i fill my coolant or use a perfectly clean funnel anyways so what will a little dust really do?

jdjesse

This is great info, does anyone have more info on the milling of a certain area of the block for a machinist whose never done this before to this motor?

Thank you!

streetzlegend

iTrader: (2)

Referring to the coolant passage for using HR gasket?
if yes, http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...BOLTS_juke.pdf
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