Who said anything about babying it? This isn't just a white and black issue. There is a huge gray area inbetween where you can get in to boost and have that thrill without going WOT or going in to the last 1 or 2 thousand revs.

 

Note the piston compression ratio. He plans to build it to get to that number or beyond.

 

What's the point of going through the money and time to boost the car then beating the crap out of your stock motor only for it to get destroyed a few months later?

 

I bent a rod on Friday on my 3rd down the drag strip, conservative boost pressure (4.5 psi), low power (360 whp), a good EMS and a conservative tune with AFR tuned in the 11’s, I had 6k miles with boost on the engine, lol. The car was running great prior to failure. It’s just a gamble.

It happened during this run (I’m the G35 coupe):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RQOsuE9KeVg

 

so if ur only in boost a few seconds when a camaro porsche or corvette wants to race.. then your stock block will hold.. i wish i knew this before

 

The motor is still in the car. I have a complete spare motor sitting beside it that I am building. Either way, I am building the motor to withstand 600hp. The only difference will be compression and cams depending on which route I go. Sorry for the confusion, didn’t mean to confuse. I would love an ls2, but my gut tells me that will be the most expensive and biggest headache. Its not a dd, I have 3 vehicles, soon to have 4. I travel for work each week so its usually only driven weekend. The car will be used for canyons, autocross, and nice days around town.

If I could guarantee that 400hp would be reliable, id go turbo in a heartbeat, but its not worth it to me if ill have problems half the time, which im reading that I will likely. Thanks for the replies, prob going to stay NA .

 

Yea its a gamble, but im on the opposite end of the stock limits, 10.5psi making 484+rwhp and have had nearly 60 boosted 1/4mile runs, and almost 100 NA. Almost 100 boosted Dyno pulls and nearly 350 NA pulls. And im at 101k miles (6k boosted) and beat the living sh*t out of it everyday. So some are just stronger than others. I just hope mine says that way

 

Yeah, I hate you, lol

Edit: your posts/tread prompted me to buy a boost controller last week; I wanted to take it the strip before I increased the boost so I went that Friday. I never even got a chance to use it, lol

Good luck though! I hope your engine stays together for a long time!

 

By not being gentle, I don't mean beat the crap out of it, but I would not leave the block stock either, as I indicated.

Going through the time and expense of my build, I am going to push the motor. "That is why I am building it" (quote from Alberto's video). That said, I have alot of strengthening done to my shortblock - closed deck, billit girdle, billit main caps, etc. We'll see how well it holds up. It does not have to be my DD. It will mostly be used on nice days and weekends, and once a month on a road course. My Toyo R888s suck in the rain so, essentially, I'll avoid driving it in nasty weather and take the CTS on those days.

 

no dont go NA cause i wanna see the 600whp capable vq35de turbo that u produce well under 15k

 

The compression ratio he selects should be based on how he will use the motor. If he is N/A, go with high compression. For 400 whp, 10.3:1 probably will be fine on premium. For 600 whp, I would go 8.5:1. On my last motor I was 8.8:1, and we were pushing the limits of 93 octane at 600 whp (Mustang dyno). 9:1 probably would be fine if running meth/water injection. As others have said, a lot has to do with the tune.

FYI, I overreved my first motor and destroyed a rod bearing. I was doing a WOT shift with a borrowed EMS. It's a long story. The rods and pistons were still in good shape, though.

 

Did you blow your motor? I see in your sig that you're built now.

 

Yeah I know all that. I'm just saying your response to him cited he was going ona stock block but in the first post, he mentioned a dramatically different ratio from stock implying he is going with aftermarket performance pistons for an engine build.

 

Right right. That's what I said in another post was that it isn't white and black and ther eis a huge gray area in between.

Anyways, I see how you use your Z is simialr to mine as I have another car.

Good luck with your car and I hope it holds-up for a long time.

 

what the hell parts would force the build to be that much?

600hp pistons/rods $1200
cams $1100
valvetrain $1000
machining & bearings $1200
gaskets and oil pump $500
random other things $1000

and thats top end pricing on those for a total of $6000. Absolutely TOPS!

where are you getting $15k? or did you just read that somewhere

 

There's also fueling, cooling, drivetrain, ECU, etc.

RFS 2k
Drivetrain 700-2000, depending on your choice, or if bought used or not
Radiator and fans: 700-100(?)
ECU: 1-2k

 

Thank you. It's a G35.

It's a high performance motor that is going to be pushed. It's 4.0L with 8.5:1 compression, so should be between 650 and 700 whp on 93 octane, and I'm hoping for 750 whp with meth injection. I'll consider myself lucky if I get 30k miles out of it before I need to re-build. We'll see. I have the rods, pistons and crank from my first 3.5L build. I may use those to build a backup short block to have ready when it is time to re-buld the 4.0L.

 

Oh, it's a G35? Then I hope it blows up in yo FACE!!!!!

 

I agree with what you said as Bert says i drive like an old grandma too.

 

rfs is only needed with FI so i consider that part of the cost of the turbo option. ive done some diy tuning and actually pulled fuel so far.

im confused why you list drivetrain as part of a built motor, what i have is fine anyway. would likely be around 4500, maybe 5500 if i throw in a 3.9FD

you have a point, ill add a radiator for $350

already have a utec,

so still at only 6350$, but that is a very high estimate