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Dyno 14psi vs 18psi FWD3.5 Auto

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Old 03-23-2011, 05:08 AM
  #21  
djamps
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Try spraying less / no meth. You don't really _need_ meth for <400whp do you, especially with your low compression engine?
Old 03-23-2011, 05:32 AM
  #22  
Vince@R/TTuning
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Originally Posted by phunk
you have a loopdy loop in your dyno graph but you say the car isnt misfiring?... thats a miss!
Actually he is measuring Engine speed at the bottom and typically when there is a misfire while measuring with engine speed the graph drops off. The loops happen when the clutches in the trans are slipping...what happens is the RPMS climb slightly and raise up...and then the clutches catch and the RPMS drop back down and thats what gives you that loop effect. So right at that point you can prob feel it flare real quick and then maybe the trans shifts right afterwards cause you should be reving a lil higher.

As far as the power drop off, I think I recall a guy doin some R&D on maxima manifolds and found they were very restrictive up high. He actually made his own and gained substantial power up high. I did a quick search and didnt find it fright away but ill see if i can try and hunt the thread down.
Old 03-23-2011, 05:35 AM
  #23  
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Found it

https://my350z.com/forum/na-builds/5...de-maxima.html

It was in NA builds, who ever posts in that section...lol
Old 03-23-2011, 07:26 AM
  #24  
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no need for meth at the power level given imo..and a dynojet actually works very well when used properly...ive never had a problem with dynojet vs. street readings unless the dyno was off or not properly calibrated
Old 03-23-2011, 09:09 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by tylerxfire
no need for meth at the power level given imo..and a dynojet actually works very well when used properly...ive never had a problem with dynojet vs. street readings unless the dyno was off or not properly calibrated
Agree. I did most of my tuning on the street when I started, and then went to dyno. There was no difference between a street pull and dyno pull, as far as boost curve and A/F ratios go.
Old 03-23-2011, 01:18 PM
  #26  
binder
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You also have to look at the housing size along with the increase in piping length since it's a rear mount. The longer you have a 2.5" pipe the more it will restrict. Same goes with your charge pipes going back up to the front of the car.

You said you wanted to do cams but i seriously would work on what the issue is at hand before making any upgrades. What you have working for you should work great once you get it figured out. Changing something might add a headache to finding the problem.
Old 03-23-2011, 01:24 PM
  #27  
streetzlegend
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Thank you for the input guys, Vince, yeah I followed sparks03max's thread since he started it on the org (maxima forum), but I dont have that kind of time or tools. Instead I got ahold of a Z mrev2 manifold with spacer and pathfinder TB, so direct bolt on. The meth is already turned off, car still feels good and with the new turbine housing it lowered full boost to almost 1k rpm.

As for the tranny clutches slipping, I actually thought that maybe my converter in stock form and unlocked is just not efficient at higher rpm's but after looking at my friends dyno I ruled that out, these auto's are tough.
Old 03-23-2011, 01:26 PM
  #28  
binder
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so you put on the smaller t3 housing?
Old 03-23-2011, 01:27 PM
  #29  
streetzlegend
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Originally Posted by binder
You also have to look at the housing size along with the increase in piping length since it's a rear mount. The longer you have a 2.5" pipe the more it will restrict. Same goes with your charge pipes going back up to the front of the car.

You said you wanted to do cams but i seriously would work on what the issue is at hand before making any upgrades. What you have working for you should work great once you get it figured out. Changing something might add a headache to finding the problem.
Well the cams is no where in the near future, thats maybe a year from now. I have not done the research on how much power the stock DE cams are good for but considering I do not have variable cam timing, mine might be overlapping a bit, so either get different cam adapters to change the degree's a lil bit, or get non stock cams.
Old 03-23-2011, 01:30 PM
  #30  
streetzlegend
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Originally Posted by binder
so you put on the smaller t3 housing?
yeah, the price was basically almost a give away, so F it why not. uptop the car feels the same, there is a dramatic difference in mid range gain (whole lot of power and torque), and for the 1st time in almost 5 years of my car being turbo charged, I get full boost in 1st gear.
Old 03-23-2011, 06:28 PM
  #31  
binder
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Originally Posted by streetzlegend
yeah, the price was basically almost a give away, so F it why not. uptop the car feels the same, there is a dramatic difference in mid range gain (whole lot of power and torque), and for the 1st time in almost 5 years of my car being turbo charged, I get full boost in 1st gear.
If it feels the same up top then it's not a flow issue you are running into yet. It's probably the misfire issue like charles pointed out.
Old 03-23-2011, 06:34 PM
  #32  
streetzlegend
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Originally Posted by binder
If it feels the same up top then it's not a flow issue you are running into yet. It's probably the misfire issue like charles pointed out.
Yeah, I think if it was a flow issue it would show up on the maf voltage, but instead maf voltage stays up, actually keeps climbing till i let off, its a Z32 MAF and getting aprox 4.8v, The Z manifold gets here on friday, so on sat I will reduce the gap at the same time, what do you guys suggest? I was thinking .030, i have it at .037 right now.
Old 03-24-2011, 05:17 AM
  #33  
binder
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Originally Posted by streetzlegend
Yeah, I think if it was a flow issue it would show up on the maf voltage, but instead maf voltage stays up, actually keeps climbing till i let off, its a Z32 MAF and getting aprox 4.8v, The Z manifold gets here on friday, so on sat I will reduce the gap at the same time, what do you guys suggest? I was thinking .030, i have it at .037 right now.
I have all mine at .026 but Hal made me gap them to .030 before all of my dynos. The newest set i put in the first one went to .026 when i started so i just did them all that size and left it.
Old 03-24-2011, 08:16 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by binder
I have all mine at .026 but Hal made me gap them to .030 before all of my dynos. The newest set i put in the first one went to .026 when i started so i just did them all that size and left it.
Thanks
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