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Fitting RFS, Pump and injectors

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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 01:59 PM
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Default Fitting RFS, Pump and injectors

Ok then, I decided to go the whole hog and fully upgrade my fuel system.

I’ve got 600ccDW injectors, AAM basic Return Fuel System, Walbro 255 and a mod’ed FP hanger.

I want to do as much of the work myself as I can, and once done I will get a UpRev re-map but my tuner is around 200 miles away. I might look into getting it transported but wanted to see what my options are.
Current set up is:

Vortech V2 S/C Kit - 3.33 pulley, Split-second timing, FMU and in-line pump
Autosportwiring ECU harness
Kinetix SSV Inlet Manifold
Invidia true dual exhaust
Kinetix HF Cats
Denso Iridium one-step colder plugs
JWT Oil pan spacer
Stillen Pneumatic engine damper
AEM AFR gauge

Obviously the SS box, FMU and inline pump will be coming out at some point so…

I’m after your help regarding how much I can do without making the car un-drivable.

Am I right in saying I can’t fit the 600cc Injectors without the re-map because neither the SS box or ECU will be able to cope? i.e. running very rich?

If that is the case what are my options?

If I fit the RFS and Walbro would I have to remove the inline pump, FMU, SS box at the same time, and disconnect the SC to keep it drivable?

Is there anyway of having the pump and RFS fitted and keep the SC connected and running?

Thanks in advance for your help.
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 06:37 PM
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i got fuel rails and lines if you need them


also run the supplied injectors with your kit, and keep it as close to the stock tune as possible. once your at your tuners shop, switch out your injectors. the last thing you want is to wash out a cylinder
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 06:35 AM
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truthfully here is what i would do:

first: don't install the ss box because if you are taking it out it will leave you with a wiring harness that has been cut and then put back together. Just leave that poor wiring harness alone! lol

second: find out from teh shop what labor rates to install that stuff would cost then find out what it would cost to hvae your car transported (trailer or whatever) to your tuner. If the cost of transport is way cheaper than driving to the tuner and having him install it then go for the install yourself. If it's pretty close to the came cost i would let the tuner do it and save the headache.

technically on teh ss box you could dial the 600's down to give you a decent vac map but it wouldn't be pretty. It would work though.
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 08:23 AM
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Not sure how well it would work though, but you could not hook up the vac line to the regulator and be able to dial down the base fuel pressure enough so that the ecu can compensate for the larger injectors. They are 600CC at 51 psi i think, bring it down to, just a number, 30 and they are now "smaller" injectors. The physical size doesn't change, but the amount of flow through them is less. Not sure what the low limit is for fuel pressure though.
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by bbs350z
i got fuel rails and lines if you need them
Thanks, but I feel that would be a bit overkill for my set up.

Originally Posted by binder
truthfully here is what i would do:

first: don't install the ss box because if you are taking it out it will leave you with a wiring harness that has been cut and then put back together. Just leave that poor wiring harness alone! lol
The SS box has been installed for years. However, it is fitted with the Autosport wiring harness so should come out pretty easy I hope.

Originally Posted by binder
second: find out from teh shop what labor rates to install that stuff would cost then find out what it would cost to hvae your car transported (trailer or whatever) to your tuner. If the cost of transport is way cheaper than driving to the tuner and having him install it then go for the install yourself. If it's pretty close to the came cost i would let the tuner do it and save the headache.

technically on teh ss box you could dial the 600's down to give you a decent vac map but it wouldn't be pretty. It would work though.
I will look into the cost of transport. Unfortunately I no nothing about tuning the SS box so unless I could get a map already sorted for 600's That's probably not an option for me. Thanks for your help.

Originally Posted by shakuya88
Not sure how well it would work though, but you could not hook up the vac line to the regulator and be able to dial down the base fuel pressure enough so that the ecu can compensate for the larger injectors. They are 600CC at 51 psi i think, bring it down to, just a number, 30 and they are now "smaller" injectors. The physical size doesn't change, but the amount of flow through them is less. Not sure what the low limit is for fuel pressure though.
MMmm very interesting. Would this work?
So I could fit the injectors, pump and RFS. Remove the FMU, in-line pump and SS box and then run at a reduced fuel pressure to stop the 600's overfuelling? I would leave the SC disconnected for safety's sake so the regulator Vac line wouldn't matter anyway.


Does anyone have any idea how to work out what fuel pressure to run to allow this? And indeed if it would work or not?

Last edited by Sam Mcgoo; Mar 26, 2011 at 12:36 PM.
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 01:44 PM
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Based on the calc here

http://www.witchhunter.com/injectorcalc1.php4

It says about 5psi base fuel pressure, and that is too low I think. Correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by shakuya88
Based on the calc here

http://www.witchhunter.com/injectorcalc1.php4

It says about 5psi base fuel pressure, and that is too low I think. Correct me if I'm wrong.
I'm very new to this and this could be very wrong but....

Using the bottom table on that link - If DW600's flow 600 at 45 psi (Is that what they are rated at?) then at 18psi they will flow 380 (the same as OEM)? However, looking at the AAM FPR it states its range as 35 -65 psi so probably wouldn't go low enough.
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 03:03 PM
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i ran my car with DW 600s on the stock ECU for hundreds of miles no problem. just cant tip into the gas too fast,

So pull the all the full kit fuel parts, drop in the pump, RFS etc and you'll be fine to get to the tuner
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
i ran my car with DW 600s on the stock ECU for hundreds of miles no problem. just cant tip into the gas too fast,

So pull the all the full kit fuel parts, drop in the pump, RFS etc and you'll be fine to get to the tuner
Ok. That's good to know. Was you running your vortech at that time aswell?

I do had an AFR gauge so I suppose I'll be able to see if it running silly rich?
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 01:36 AM
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
i ran my car with DW 600s on the stock ECU for hundreds of miles no problem. just cant tip into the gas too fast,

So pull the all the full kit fuel parts, drop in the pump, RFS etc and you'll be fine to get to the tuner
wait, stock ecu with NO tune? That's kind of crazy but i guess it could possibly be done.

he's talking about stock ecu with the oem tune on it.

Also, OEM injectors are 280cc last i checked. You would have to get those 600cc injectors down to 280cc for your tune to be similar. You would be able to run it rich and still be drivable so you wouldn't need to scale the pressure all the way down to 280cc though.
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 03:00 AM
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Originally Posted by binder
wait, stock ecu with NO tune? That's kind of crazy but i guess it could possibly be done.

he's talking about stock ecu with the oem tune on it.

Also, OEM injectors are 280cc last i checked. You would have to get those 600cc injectors down to 280cc for your tune to be similar. You would be able to run it rich and still be drivable so you wouldn't need to scale the pressure all the way down to 280cc though.
Oh right, 280cc? My bad, I read 320cc somewhere...as I said I've only just started reading about all this.

So it sounds like I can remove all the extra sh*t, fit my new 600's, pump and RFS, turn the regulator down to say..35psi... and run the OEM tune and it SHOULD be ok to drive to my tuner if I take it easy and keep an eye on the AFR?

I really appreciated all your help guys.
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
i ran my car with DW 600s on the stock ECU for hundreds of miles no problem. just cant tip into the gas too fast,

So pull the all the full kit fuel parts, drop in the pump, RFS etc and you'll be fine to get to the tuner
+1, just drop the base fuel pressure as low as it can go and don't go do anything more than feathering the throttle... reset the ECU before driving it so it can try to learn the new injectors, at least a little.

just drive it like grandma to church on the way to your tuner LOL
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 12:41 PM
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Thanks again for your help guys.
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 02:49 PM
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exactly, stock ECU, no EMS. You are always in vacuum and the stock ECU can scale the injectors enough for easy driving. you cant floor it or accel quickly bc there isnt enough compensation, but its 100% fine at steady driving.


Originally Posted by binder
wait, stock ecu with NO tune? That's kind of crazy but i guess it could possibly be done.

he's talking about stock ecu with the oem tune on it.

Also, OEM injectors are 280cc last i checked. You would have to get those 600cc injectors down to 280cc for your tune to be similar. You would be able to run it rich and still be drivable so you wouldn't need to scale the pressure all the way down to 280cc though.
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
exactly, stock ECU, no EMS. You are always in vacuum and the stock ECU can scale the injectors enough for easy driving. you cant floor it or accel quickly bc there isnt enough compensation, but its 100% fine at steady driving.


Exactly what I wanted to hear. I'm looking forward to getting home and getting it done now. (away working)

Be interesting to see the difference the Uprev makes over the SST tune.
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Old Mar 29, 2011 | 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
exactly, stock ECU, no EMS. You are always in vacuum and the stock ECU can scale the injectors enough for easy driving. you cant floor it or accel quickly bc there isnt enough compensation, but its 100% fine at steady driving.
makes sense. i wouldn't be overly concerned about low a/f ratio anyways as long as it's above 11's.
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