dead Haltech wideband sensors???
04-20-2011, 06:52 AM
#1
dead Haltech wideband sensors???
Hey guys,
I have the haltech dual wideband controller.
So about 1/2 way thru some rough in tuning, my passenger wideband quite working. The light on the controller stopped blinking, but stayed solid red. Turning the potentiometer didnt do anything.
About 30 mins later the drivers side stopped working as well. They both stay around 14.4 on the gauge.
The manual says no blinking could be failed sensor or too much hydrocarbons...
Kinda weird that they would both fail. Any chance its the controller? The sensors are about 6" or so behind the turbos.
Thanks!!
I have the haltech dual wideband controller.
So about 1/2 way thru some rough in tuning, my passenger wideband quite working. The light on the controller stopped blinking, but stayed solid red. Turning the potentiometer didnt do anything.
About 30 mins later the drivers side stopped working as well. They both stay around 14.4 on the gauge.
The manual says no blinking could be failed sensor or too much hydrocarbons...
Kinda weird that they would both fail. Any chance its the controller? The sensors are about 6" or so behind the turbos.
Thanks!!
04-20-2011, 07:00 AM
#2
Registered User
How long you had the sensors and how much leaded fuel through them.....
Historically on any car I ran racegas on, they lasted reliably about 1 season (bosch sensors)
Tom
Historically on any car I ran racegas on, they lasted reliably about 1 season (bosch sensors)
Tom
04-20-2011, 08:18 AM
#5
6" is pretty close but you'd think they'd be designed for the heat. If the heating element is left on (sensor is powered) but the car is cold / not running and then cold exhaust gases hit a hot sensor, I've heard that can kill the sensor. How do you have the controller powered?
I would recommend moving sensor back as far as you reasonably can in the downpipe. Maybe swap positions with the downstream stock ECU sensors that aren't really being used anyway?
I have read that you can clean O2 sensors by dipping them in gasoline but I'm not too sure about that!
I would recommend moving sensor back as far as you reasonably can in the downpipe. Maybe swap positions with the downstream stock ECU sensors that aren't really being used anyway?
I have read that you can clean O2 sensors by dipping them in gasoline but I'm not too sure about that!
Last edited by rcdash; 04-20-2011 at 08:21 AM.
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04-23-2011, 08:07 AM
#10
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I'm with raj on the 6" from the turbo being too close. That seems like a lot of heat to be directly on the sensors.
I had to be a heat shield on my widebands until i changed their location further down. When they were Right off the headers they would quit working and Innovate said it was too much heat. I moved them and no problems. I use haltechs now and they are upstream of the turbo and 18" from the headers so no heat issues.
I had to be a heat shield on my widebands until i changed their location further down. When they were Right off the headers they would quit working and Innovate said it was too much heat. I moved them and no problems. I use haltechs now and they are upstream of the turbo and 18" from the headers so no heat issues.
04-23-2011, 08:39 AM
#11
ya i ordered new sensors cuz i dont have time to f with it. getting new bungs welded into my exhaust much further down stream just in case thats actually the problem.
But if you look at supra builds, they have widebands right on the bend of the downpipe, like 3" from the turbine... so dunno..
But if you look at supra builds, they have widebands right on the bend of the downpipe, like 3" from the turbine... so dunno..
04-24-2011, 09:05 AM
#12
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ya i ordered new sensors cuz i dont have time to f with it. getting new bungs welded into my exhaust much further down stream just in case thats actually the problem.
But if you look at supra builds, they have widebands right on the bend of the downpipe, like 3" from the turbine... so dunno..
But if you look at supra builds, they have widebands right on the bend of the downpipe, like 3" from the turbine... so dunno..
ya, i just thought of that after i posted. Wonder what sensors most of them use? I would assume still a bosch sensor.
You haven't had that wideband controller very long so i would see if haltech would warranty it if that turns out to be the problem. If mine wasn't hardwired in i would ship it and let you borrow it but i'd rather not go through the nasty unsoldering problem of all that junk.
04-25-2011, 11:16 AM
#14
Jeff- most supras use a ntk sensor as they can take the lead abuse that the bosches can't. I know I fouled a good bit of bosch sensors and so I switched to FJO and a ntk sensor.
6" is plenty of space and you shouldn't be having a problem with being that close honestly. Hopefully you get it figured out though. As I have the same setup for my VQ since she won't see alot of race gas. Shell be running mainly a pump/meth mix.
Jeremiah
6" is plenty of space and you shouldn't be having a problem with being that close honestly. Hopefully you get it figured out though. As I have the same setup for my VQ since she won't see alot of race gas. Shell be running mainly a pump/meth mix.
Jeremiah
04-25-2011, 12:41 PM
#15
From AEM UEGO instructions:
A weld-in M18 X 1.5 boss is supplied for sensor installation. Mount the O2 sensor in the
exhaust system at least 18 inches downstream from the exhaust port. If you anticipate
high EGT's (over 800C), run a turbocharger, run at high RPM for extended periods of
time or plan on running leaded race fuel then you must mount the sensor at least 36
inches or more downstream of the exhaust port as all of these can cause the sensor to
overheat. On turbocharged engines the UEGO sensor must be installed after the
turbo charger, if not, the pressure differential will greatly affect the accuracy of
the unit. For accurate readings, the sensor must be mounted before catalytic
converters and/or auxiliary air pumps. To prevent collection of liquids between the
sensor housing and sensor element during the cold start phase, the installation angle
should be inclined at least 10° from horizontal with the electrical connection upwards,
see below.
exhaust system at least 18 inches downstream from the exhaust port. If you anticipate
high EGT's (over 800C), run a turbocharger, run at high RPM for extended periods of
time or plan on running leaded race fuel then you must mount the sensor at least 36
inches or more downstream of the exhaust port as all of these can cause the sensor to
overheat. On turbocharged engines the UEGO sensor must be installed after the
turbo charger, if not, the pressure differential will greatly affect the accuracy of
the unit. For accurate readings, the sensor must be mounted before catalytic
converters and/or auxiliary air pumps. To prevent collection of liquids between the
sensor housing and sensor element during the cold start phase, the installation angle
should be inclined at least 10° from horizontal with the electrical connection upwards,
see below.
04-26-2011, 12:21 PM
#17
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try throwing in a set of non-foulers to remove it from the direct turbo heat. I built one of those copper heat shields that they show how to make in the innovate LC-1 manual. That seemed to stop my sensor overheat issue.
They also make the heat sink bung adapters.
They also make the heat sink bung adapters.
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