Guys just a quick simple thread.

I have read many post on what sort of temps people have on the road/track etc but never came accross definite answers on what is dangerous temps for coolant/oil/AIT etc....


Coolant temps:

SAFE = 170-195 deg F
HOT = 196-210 deg F
DANGER = 211+ deg F ???

Oil temps:

SAFE = 167-221 deg F
HOT = 222-257 deg F
DANGER = 258+ deg F

Air intake temp

SAFE = -20-105 deg F
HOT = ?????????
DANGER = ?????????????


Any ideas if these are ok guys? AIT's Im in the UK so mine will be lower than you US guys but any idea on when to worry about AIT's?? Ive only seen 120 deg F once or twice?

 

I know this doesn't apply to your question, however i've hit 73 degrees Celsius last week driving to work. Logging through Cipher.

 

I have a temp probe at the inlet hose to radiator...When getting on it, It will reach 210 deg F. and cycle back down a couple deg's when the fan comes on. The OEM gauge doesn't move and remains rock solid...Interested also in knowing the safe coolant temp..

 

My Oil temps are typically around 180-220 deg f, and my coolant temps are usually close but a little less to whatever my oil temps are. I cruise around 170-185 deg f on the highways, and slightly higher around town. However if I start making some pulls, temps shoot right up to 210-220, as any turbo car will because your creating more heat.

In all honesty I haven't recorded my AIT's much.

Not sure if that helps or not, there are some people that watch this stuff like hawks that might be better able to answer.

 

Thanks for chipping in anyway guys. Just trying to get a clear thread withthe info people need.

Any shops on here that have soild info please chime in!!

 

Hi Tim,

It would be good to get some definitive answers on these.
I spoke to Mark from Abbey when I picked my car up post UpRev, and asked about water temp. He said 105 degC (220F) is bad. I'm sure he said if the car went over that that it would be limited to 4500rpm. I assume that's something he put in the map.

 

Thanks Sam, 220 deg F is quite high. I've only ever seen my coolant at 205-206 deg f in traffic and it comes down fast when the fans kick in.

Coolant is easier to gauge as the OEM fan kicks in about 204 deg f, oil temp and AIT is a little harder as there is no solid line where fans kick in etc. I have been told motul 300v 15w-50 is stable till 130-135 deg C but I would not want to keep running my motor hard if the oil was past 120 deg C.

 

Water temp is perfectly good till about 230 , at 240 i would start to worry and would hate to see it over 250. Typically my car runs about 220 on the track.

AIT, really can't do much about it for an NA car. My pop charger runs gives me a steady AIT between 7 and 10f degrees hotter than ambient temp. If its 120 outside, my ait will be 127 to 130, and there is nothing i can do about it. A perfect Cold air intake

Forced Induction AIt, i know nothing about, i'm sure its different.

 

Depends on the fluids you are running. Obviously if your water temp approaches the boiling point at whatever pressure cap you run (250 at 15 psi I believe), you can bet you're getting vapor formation at the cylinder jackets, possibly creating hot spots. I run Evans and I'm told it will not boil till 370 deg F.

For synthetic oil, I have read that breakdown accelerates only past 300 deg F. That said, I'm not sure whether the viscosity at that temperature is sufficient to maintain lubrication in our engines. The highest I've gotten my turbo diesel oil is 250 on a mountain run (coolant temp remained under 205). Coming to rest after that run, oil pressure at idle was at 25 psi and oil pressure at the turbos was less than 5 psi. Normally idle psi at 200 degF is 30 psi with turbo feed pressure of about 8 psi.

I'll just add that for ATF, I've read that every 10 degrees past 240 degF shortens life of the fluid by 50%. I change mine every 6k miles so I'm not too concerned. I never go past 200 degF anyway with the cooler I have in place.

I think rising AITs are only important under load and at an extreme level. I've had my car heat soaked to 150 degF idling but as soon as you get some airflow it drops to near 100. I don't think this is an issue with intercooling. Hotter air is less dense and you're going to end up with a richer mixer which will help cool cylinder temps because of it.

 

Perfect thread given how hot its been lately, i've recently started my battle against heat! I havent found another laptop to use strictly for the car yet so logging is limited as of now, but here's where i sit...

My AIT's are steady at about 102-108F@ idle with how hot it's been around here in oklahoma (100-105F ambient for the last 2-3 weeks), think i never saw more than 120F while in boost after a few pulls.... oil temp after a few 3rd + 4th gear pulls peaked around 226-229F before it started dropping back down, not too sure about base temp.

Logged via Cipher

 

Out of curiousity, is the AIT read by the ECU via the MAF sensor, or another sensor past the MAF?

Just wondering because I run water/meth injection and my meth nozzle is past the MAF...

Also, will high AIT's make the ECU take away timing?

I do have Osiris, but I use a Greddy Informeter for instantaneous logging via the ECU...

 

What have you all done to keep underhood temps down? My temp sensor heat soaks at idle to around 130-150 degrees. When I turn the car off, it goes to 200+ and when I start the car it runs lean as hell until the sensor cools off. Ive been thinking about moving the sensor right after the intercooler to get it out of the engine bay. Also on hot days at 18psi I see 160-170 degree temps. Has anyone relocated the greddy inlets to outside of the engine bay? I'm sick of it being so hot. It's killing my power, drivability, and I can't touch the plenum for hours after driving.

 

I saw around 240s during texas heat when i got my car back last year, but i've been running evans since the build with koyo slim radiator. I got a vented hood that dropped it down to an average of 215-220. Then I got aluminum shroud and new 12 and 14 inch fans controlled by the ditech pwm. Now I get into the 210s after hard boosting, 190-200 during cruise.

 

Mine does the exact opposite, my defi water gauge reaches up to 100-105celsius when in traffic but when I am driving it drops down to around 87-90celsius. My stock gauge stays rock solid the whole time.

 

My AIT compensation increases fuel when temps get hot, then tapers off as air gets less dense (to maintain stoich AFR). I don't know why this is required, but it is. Perhaps air velocity increases for a time?

Moving the sensor farther from the plenum will only give you an inaccurate reading. Moving the inlets down low helps but you can still heat soak the entire intake tract when the car is stationary.

The best cure is W/M injection. One little burst and temps go below ambient!

 

i also use evans waterless coolant and have been told once you sneak up on 240 thats time to shut it down....sittin in traffic around 200 is pretty normal for a turbo car that runs hot...i have koyo radiator...forged's coolant bypass, evans fluid, vented cf hood

 

Yeah I need wm injection.. But I'm saving up for an hfs 6, go big or go home right? That's what I've got on the z32 and I love it.
The temp correction takes out fuel as air gets hotter, so basically your temp correction is set really high to do the opposite? I've been increasing fuel bit by bit at high temps under vacuum I just have to remember not to boost until the temps cool. That's what sucks about the heat soak, it is not the actual temperature of the air coming in so the haltech is falsely correcting, creating a lean condition! I'd like to see your air temp correction table set up if you don't mind, I'll shoot you a pm.

 

i wouldnt even do much AIT compensation, esp if its so much that its making your car lean out. You know its know a true reading, so realy more on coolant temps, than AIT.

couple strikes of the keyboard to fix

 

Getting some great Info on this thread now guys. Any one have any up date for my list in the first post or are those temp ranges looking correct so far?

 

I don't know what you guys mean it's not real for the temp compensation. If it wasn't real, you wouldn't need fueling compensation, but you do! The fact is that as the metal at the intake valve gets hot, the fuel spray evaporates or air delivery for some reason increases (velocity?), and it leans out. This is the compensation I use (this is not Sharif's tune - he has a table based on air density, which doesn't work for me, so I change it back every time he has tuned it):