eZg

iTrader: (5)

Need some help ASAP guys. If Anyone sees Hal tomorrow please ask him to call me.

Uprev flash had failed a few times to prevent o2 codes from being thrown. No big deal. Today after oil change had brake and battery warning lights come on and stay on (parking brake was NOT on car drove fine for a couple hours of running around, errands not track.

In gear going down steep hill something gives... No power. I'm thinking limp mode. Engine reves great but won't pull once clutch is engaged. Pull into liquor store parking lot..... Send seven year old daughter in for some whiskey. Car won't start like battery is dead. I'm guessing alternator issue.

Mech found a fuel leak during oil change and tightened AN fitting off drivers side fuel rail. Using my mad deductive reasoning skills looked to see if the helpful fellow may have pushed something loose or some such thing. Found some wires that may have been pushed againstblock that were pretty hot.... I dunno.

Jumped car and lights were suddenly gone and got home. Ran flawlessly. Started up again right after but will try again in the morning.

Single Dad without time to tinker much unless I want to find My little Ponies wedged in various spots of engine compartment and need to drive back down south Sunday 250 miles to home with secure parking. Can't really leave car here and afraid to get stranded for good with kid on some God forsaken back country road around here.

Any ideas?

Thanks Guys

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

Bad battery or dirty contacts at battery terminals.

eZg

iTrader: (5)

Ok thanks I'll go get it tested. Only 6 months old though and car started this morn

binder

iTrader: (8)

age of a battery doesn't mean it's good. Batteries sometimes get bad cells in them or if the contacts aren't that great it can cause problems.

always easy to start small then look further if it's not the problem.

ZA_350Z

The sell to a 7 yo kid?!

eZg

iTrader: (5)

Twas a joke. Would have been a nice place to break down if I didn't need to be a res parent though

Car is running great today!! Gues something reset after the battery drained all the way down?!?!

ericr33914

iTrader: (4)

You need a new alternator. I just had the same problem with my car, both the brake and the battery light came on and it wouldnt recharge the battery.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

first thing Id check is the ground on the alternator

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

umm the alternator grounds trough the housing. how do you check that?
have you even seen a ground wire off an alt? no....

Old School

iTrader: (28)

I've seen wiring coming from the alt burn right off.

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

those would be the trigger wires or the wire to the battery. no grounds....

Old School

iTrader: (28)

that is correct.

eZg

iTrader: (5)

Car ran fine for half a day. Then Brake and Battery lights came back on but in a different manner. Now they were rev dependant, got noticable brighter as the engine reved higher. Then dissappeared during if I let engine revs drop. interesting

Car is parked a cuople states away as I had to commute to Ms last night.

Thanks for input guys

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

def a charging system issue. On the surface, sounds like the internal regulator in the alternator has gone

easy enough to check with a voltmeter

how does the battery gauge in the center cluster read at idle? at low/high rpm?

eZg

iTrader: (5)

I'll have to check when I get back to the car next week. I'm not 100% sure the G has a voltmeter guage (if that is it's proper name)

Thank you AGAIN for your help!!

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

ah sorry, didn't see you had a G35 in your signature

easiest way is to put a volt meter on the battery, take note of what it says at idle, have a friend press the accelerator to about 2500 rpm, take note of the voltage then. With the car off, it should be in the 11.5-12 volt range. At idle, around 12.8-13.2 ish (I forget the exact #'s, it's in the service manual though), and then a touch higher as rpm's are introduced